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melted rectifier wires.

12K views 10 replies 9 participants last post by  wibbly  
#1 ·
SO I was changing out my brake fluids today and as i removed my rear crowl I noticed this (See picture below) the strange thing is my 51 stills acts just fine. Starts just fine and all ligts and equipment are good. Im not going to run her now until I can get this fixed but I just thought it was pretty scary.
:confused:
Image



So im going to replace the connector and wires and clean it up. Does anyone have any other ideas as to what i should do? or even how this happened. i know the R/R can get hot and all but this is kind of drastic. your :twocents is appreciated.

Thanks ahead of time.
 
#2 ·
My guess is that one phase of the rectifier is shorted, That leaves two phases still working so the bike charges okay but that one phase is running into a short circuit and frying your wiring. Just my guess.
 
#3 · (Edited)
The three yellow wires coming from the stator (which are inputs to the 'rectifier' side of the regulator-rectifier) carry alot of current. They get quite warm under normal conditions. In the old days, it was fairly common to see the connector melt. I've seen it happen many times on other Hondas. And in your case it appears that may have happened at some point in the past, because the factory connector is gone. It looks like someone has replaced that factory connector with three individual "crimp-on" spade-type connectors, which only made matters worse. Those crimp-on spade-type connectors just aren't capable of carrying those high currents... thus they get even hotter.

If I was you, I'd clip those three spade connectors out, and hard wire each of the three yellow wires. Yup, solder and shrink-tube each one. Also take measures to keep those three wires away from one-another, and away from other wires.

Although it looks like the connector carrying the output of the RR has taken a pretty good hit, it's probably ok (that's the one with the Green and Red wires). Although you may want to do the same to those as well (ie. clip the connector out, and hard-wire each one by soldering/shrink-wrapping each wire together).


Bottom line... eliminate any & all mechanical connections on the three yellow wires between the stator and the RR. Any mechanical connection will introduce a bit of low resistance (aka. high load), and generate lots of heat.


Edit: While your at it, check to make sure your stator is ok. Pretty easy to do. Using a standard voltage/resistance meter (set to test resistance) check for continuity between each of those three yellow wires (coming from the stator) and chassis and/or battery ground. There should be NO continuity. If you find any continuity to ground, your stator is fried. Also test for continuity between each of the three wires. There should be continuity between any two of them. Label each wire A, B, and C. Test between A-B, B-C, C-A.
 
#6 ·
Don't feel bad as you caught it before you got stranded. Fortunately yours was single phasing and had enough reserve to keep the battery up.

I've seen many bikes do this. Honda, Yam, Duc, Priller, and the list goes on.
Shindengen and Hitachi Reg/Recs have been using these undersized blade connectors for 30 years. And,,,,,,,, they still don't work! The connectors will oxidize a bit then they won't carry the current and heat up.

As both connectors must be cut off at this point, I would solder each wire individually and insulate them well. Tape and shrink tube.
Any yellow to any yellow. But be sure you get the reds and blacks matched.

I've done this to at least 5 bikes in the last 10 years. My Duc smoked the yellows a couple years ago. And my buddys Priller did it last month while we were 200 miles from home and the battery went dead. A little pocket knife work, tape and a bump start got it going.
 
#7 ·
My RC stock Rectifier connect started doing it inside the connector. Everything was working fine as well. Luckily an inspection of the connector had me changing it out for another good Rec. Now the funny thing was that it burnt only on the Retifier side. THe stator side was ok. Again I caught this before it got worst.
 
#8 ·
Thanks for all your guys info. The rec has checked good so far and i have a few of the wires soldered together now. I have to go out today and get a better iron. The one I have is pretty crappy and wont heat the yellow wires enough to melt the solder.
 
#9 ·
You might need a small torch of sort because an iron has to basically heat up the whole entire wires for the solder to melt to the wire. Being that the stator is on the other end of the long thick gauge wire? An soldering iron won't be the best choice to use.

good luck
 
#11 ·
you can easily solder those wires with an iron.... instead of trying to heat the wire just melt solder onto the tip of the iron and then press it onto the wires, then feed solder into the hot puddle on the iron, as it begins to penetrate the wire then you can begin to feed your solder into the wire...


holding the iron on the wire and waiting for it to heat up is the worst way to do it.


keep in mind as well that solder moves towards the heat source, so to get proper penetration you will have to move the iron up and down the wire while feeding solder on the other side... make sure you get GOOD heat into the solder and that all the rosin burns out and comes to the surface.