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Discussion Starter #1
Picked up another 2002 RC51 in November, right before the cold weather arrived, so there are two bikes to work on over the winter. Street one will be pretty boring, the goal is to keep it mostly stock and any mods are only to duplicate the track bike setup. Plenty of progress made so far on the both, but neither are really rideable yet. If there's anything people would like better pictures of, just let me know

Street progress first: Rashed and beat up stock hand controls completely replaced: Vortex clipons, radial clutch and brake masters (ZX14 & CBR1000RR). Forks & Shock are getting serviced at Lithium Motorsports and now running 3 spoke wheels front and back (600RR & 1000RR). Soft-rev limit removed, missing tip over sensor (WTF?) ordered and gearing changed to 15/42. Two Brothers dual exhaust swapped out for a larger 2-1 system with an aluminum Jardine can. Switched back to stock rearsets with VFR shifter for GP pattern. Only likely future upgrade would be a PC3.

Here's pics of the tip over sensor plugged into the diagnostic connector as well as the 3 spoke wheels and current state of dis-assembly.





 

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Discussion Starter #2
Track Bike

The track bike should be more interesting, as it's certainly is more involved and some of the changes make me a little nervous to see if they'll work. Previously completed upgrades included: Penske shock, revalved/resprung forks, 1000RR radial brake master, Alth rotors, CF airbox & snorkel and partially cut down wire harness while major plans for this winter are mostly focused on weight loss.

First thing completed was cannibalizing the nicer track parts off the street bike and moving them over to the track one. This included Nicky modded sprocket cover, PC3USB (replaced PC3r), RC51 front fender (replaced 929 fender) and a bunch of bolts already drilled for safety wire. Radial clutch master (from ZX14) and braided clutch/rear brake lines are mainly for show...

 

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Discussion Starter #3
Track Bike Diet

The actual meaningful upgrades for this winter include PVM forged aluminum wheels, race subframe, battery relocation and superbike tail. The PVMs definitely feel lighter than the stockers and the captive spacers make wheel changes so much better. (Unfortunately they also caused some unexpected heartburn as the bearings needed replacing and I sheared a rotor bolt off in the front wheel.) All fixed now and I'm liking the gold so far.




Race subframe (I think Varium should recognize it) and superbike tail will definitely clean up the back end. Pretty sweet unit, actually holds almost all the electronics other than battery and starter relay.






The Thorsten battery relocation kit caused me to work a little more on the rear wiring harness...hopefully I can splice the 3 wires off the main fuse into the proper locations in the front harness.



 

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I wanted that subframe:banghead looks like the ticket is two bikes Great Job "BRO"
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Here's a couple more pics of the subframe when it was mounted on the previous owners bike. If anyone's interested in making their own, it wouldn't be too difficult. Aside from the carbon fiber trays, everything else can be picked up at a Lowe's or Home Depot. Definitely no place for a battery, so be ready to move it up front.

This basic parts list should get you started:

1" Rubber Lined Clamps (mount trays, hold wiring): Qty 10
3/4" Rubber Lined Clamps (hold wiring): Qty 4
Smaller Rubber Lined Clamps (1/2" or 5/8"?) (hold tip over sensor, wiring, PC3) : Qty 6
2" Threaded Aluminum Post (tip over sensor): Qty 2
3/4" Threaded Aluminum Post: Qty 3
5/8" Threaded Aluminum Post: Qty 2
3/4" & 1/4 small spacers (tip over sensor)
1/4" Threaded Aluminum Post (mount trays): Qty 8



 

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Discussion Starter #8
Progress Pics

Both sets of front forks and a rear shock were sent to Lithium Motorsports for servicing, and only having one front stand meant I was using a ladder to support the track bike.

 

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Discussion Starter #9
Forks and shock are back now, so both bikes are getting closer. Spark plugs were changed, WTF is so hard about getting the right plugs in a RC51? Second one I've bought used that had the wrong plugs, although this time they were just SP1 plugs, rather than Bosch car plugs.

Replacement oil cooler with fewer bent fins installed on the track bike, along with the Thorsten battery relocation bracket. Just an FYI - the bracket works with the shorter OEM style oil filter, not the longer FRAM type. Stock intake on the street bike had several broken tabs, so I just went with a Gen1 CF unit from Turnone.


Street:



Track:

 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
What to watch for when buying a track bike for the street...

Been taking my time to get these done as the back yard has been taking up way too much project time now that it's spring. Street bike is almost done, but I figured I'd document the issues that needed fixing now that I was only going to be running the new (to me) RC51 on the street. (Previously it was street/track.)
  • Missing tip over sensor
  • Horn removed and wire just cut off
  • Missing brake light switch for rear brake
  • All 10A fuses replaced w/20A fuses
  • Rear electronics re-arranged in tail section (not in good way)
  • Rashed up clipons, levers as well as repaired intake snorkels and dented radiators from track lowsides
  • wrong spark plugs (car plugs or SP1 plugs in SP2)
  • cracked 2-2 OEM exhaust headers
  • turn signal and high beam indicator lights non-functional due to hacked up front wiring
  • disabled kickstand switch
  • missing or cracked bodywork mounting pieces / battery cover / v-cowl / radiator screens
  • weird airbox mods
As far as the indicator lights go, the high beam and turn signal indicators have both been rewired to the main display backlight. It'll flash if the signal is on and turns off if the high beams are on. (But if the high beams are on, there's no signal display at all.) Certainly not the most useful modification ever, but I'll probably try and live with it until I have a chance to fix the wiring.

This has to be the oddest airbox mod I've ever seen, this front piece was just removed from the airbox, so the filters were open to the engine and there was absolutely no pressurization. This piece was missing:



Airbox on bike:

 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Almost there...

The street bike is almost done, all the minor maintenance has been done and mechanical issues have been fixed. A shout out to bensexcessbikes / RC51Parts who has been a great help for too many small parts to list as well as things like speedohealer and exhaust. The bike is back running so I can finally start riding again.

The following is the actual list of what was done over the winter, in case anyone has questions...
  • Radial (OEM) brake & clutch master cylinders with ladybird style reservoir stays. (Pictured below, I can't speak highly enough of how well these worked.) New Tygon clear reservoir tubing, safety wired used instead of hose clamps.
  • Vortex clipons with Renthal medium grips (more room for control placement than with stock clipons)
  • 15/42 gearing with Ahlman speedo recalibrator set to 10% correction. (PM me if you need instructions for one of these units)
  • Lightweight speedcell-type battery with quick disconnect to be shared between track and street bikes
  • TurnOne CF Intake
  • 3-spoke (1000RR & 600RR) wheels with my old track takeoffs (BT002-RS 120/70 & 190/55)
  • Vista Cruise throttle lock
  • CBR 929/954 front fender. I like it for the street as it extends a little further back than the stock RC51 fender.
  • GP shift w/VFR shifter
  • 1" mirror extenders from Ebay
  • Pro-Tek Billet Top Triple Clamp
  • Arrow 2:1 Ti Left Exit Exhaust system w/SP1 Stock Header
  • PC3USB (need better map)
  • CF Exhaust hanger from MRGRN
  • SS Braided clutch line (pending)
  • Fiberglass Radiator Airscoops (pending)
  • TwitchINc quick release seat screws
  • Seven Stars sticker kit from SrSignDesign (pending)
The nice part about buying a track bike is that it does come with some upgrades already done:
  • Front/rear stock suspension resprung and revalved by GP Suspension
  • Undertail / solo tail / flush mount signals
  • T-Rex frame sliders
  • Billet clutch cover
  • SS Braided brake lines front and rear
  • 520 conversion
  • PAIR, flapper & soft-rev mods
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
WHAT!!!:banghead
Who are these people?
I like Portland, but that's where I got both of the RC51s from...but even needing the work, I still got a decent deal on this bike as it was just under $3k. Almost all the above issues have been fixed and I didn't even list the partially completed PAIR/Flapper mods that need finishing, disabled soft-rev mod or running the Jardine slip-on PC3 map with shortened 2-Bros mufflers, as that could happen on a street bike too.

Reservoir stays:

 

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ZX14 clutch master?....the feeling much less stress then the stock?..The stock is very difficult using 2 fingers to pull in.
 

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Here's a couple more pics of the subframe when it was mounted on the previous owners bike. If anyone's interested in making their own, it wouldn't be too difficult. Aside from the carbon fiber trays, everything else can be picked up at a Lowe's or Home Depot. Definitely no place for a battery, so be ready to move it up front.

This basic parts list should get you started:

1" Rubber Lined Clamps (mount trays, hold wiring): Qty 10
3/4" Rubber Lined Clamps (hold wiring): Qty 4
Smaller Rubber Lined Clamps (1/2" or 5/8"?) (hold tip over sensor, wiring, PC3) : Qty 6
2" Threaded Aluminum Post (tip over sensor): Qty 2
3/4" Threaded Aluminum Post: Qty 3
5/8" Threaded Aluminum Post: Qty 2
3/4" & 1/4 small spacers (tip over sensor)
1/4" Threaded Aluminum Post (mount trays): Qty 8



With the heat around here (100 plus), I would be a little concerned about the rectifier and converter overheating. Have you had any problems?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
ZX14 clutch master?....the feeling much less stress then the stock?..The stock is very difficult using 2 fingers to pull in.
It might be a little easier, don't have a stock one around to compare to though. I do have a billet CP clutch slave on my track bike and I think that makes it a little easier pull than the stock slave.

With the heat around here (100 plus), I would be a little concerned about the rectifier and converter overheating. Have you had any problems?
No trouble so far, and it's a pretty common electronic relocation area and I've never heard of any issues. If you check out Damon / dstewart's builds he's moved some of the electronics up front next to the engine where I think they'd be warmer without any problems.

Where did you get the reservoir stays at? I need to get some after fitting the ZX-14 clutch/brake masters too.
Got them from "1000rrstunna" over on the WERA board
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Arrow 2-1 Ti Left Exit exhaust system is on the bike. Uses a SP1 stock header, but everything bolted up just fine. Haven't done much else to it, although the Ebay Mirror Extenders are definitely worth the $25.

Oh and anyone using the ZX14 clutch master, be careful with the pivot bolt. I've had the nut come off 3 times, and the pivot bolt come out once (at 150MPH). Last time I added some blue loctite when putting it back on, so I hope I'm finally good to go.







 

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Discussion Starter #19
Track Day Success

Finally got the track bike back together and almost complete. Major projects just completed included the new wheels, battery & electronics relocation, replacing oil cooler, brake & clutch master cylinders, superbike tail, race subframe, servicing the shock & forks and installing the cf airscoops.

The following is the actual list of the mods to the bike, in case anyone has questions...
  • 19x18 Brembo Brake Master Cylinder w/folding lever
  • Alth Racing Full Floating Front Rotors / SBS Dual Carbon Pads / Galfer (?) rear rotor
  • Scott's Rotary Steering Damper
  • Datatool Gear Indicator
  • Vortex clipons with Renthal medium grips
  • Relocated speedcell-type battery & starter relay
  • Superbike tail section / race subframe / electronics below seat
  • TurnOne CF Intake & Fiberglass/CF Airbox
  • PVM 5Y Aluminum Wheels and Bridgestone BT002-RS 120/70 & 190/55 Tires
  • Woodcraft rearsets using GP shift (VFR shifter) w/CF OEM style boot gaurd
  • Jardine 2:1 Full Stainless Exhaust / PC3USB & CF Exhaust hanger from MRGRN
  • Durbahn CF Radiator Airscoops
  • Front forks resprung and revalved by GP Suspension
  • Penske Double Rear Shock w/ Remote Res Hanger
  • Radial clutch master cylinder (ZX14) and CP Billet Clutch Slave from Mark
  • Rear brake reservoir removal / small relocated coolant reservoir
  • Ignition removed / Kill switch only / Keyless Gas Cap
  • Intuitive frame sliders
  • Billet clutch cover / Nicky modded sprocket cover
  • 600RR rear hugger
  • TwitchINc quick release tank hinge pin
  • SS Braided brake lines front, rear and clutch
  • 520 conversion with 15/41 gearing
  • PAIR, flapper & soft-rev mods
  • 3-spoke (1000RR & 600RR) wheels set up with Pirelli Rain Tires
  • CABIN Replica sticker kit from SrSignDesign (pending)
Here's a shot of it in the pits.

 
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