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I have seen scotchbrite pads with screen. IMO the purpose on these airboxes is to gain airgulps and the filtration should be minimal. I would suggest a screen to stop rocks and debris but to actually filter air is a bit overkill. It would take years of riding in dust with no filters to cause valave damage, think you breath the same air as the bike does. The RC51 goes 100,000 miles with little to no valve adjustments they are tough machines. I am not suggesting no filters just minimal and ride. In nearly 10 hyears of the thorsten box and can't think of one single bike that had its valaves toasted or other due to insufficient filtering, not one hope that helps

http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Brite-General-Purpose-Pads-Maroon/dp/B000JTIPYU

i have three different grits i would be happy to send you one for free
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm not really big on the idea of dust particles or any other small things getting into my engine's air supply. Hardly overkill. I've seen Brett say the material he uses is adequate for this, but I'm curious to see what other have done. Do you think those scotchbrite pads are fine enough for this? I saw one member mention using a thin oiled material of some sort.
 

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I'm not really big on the idea of dust particles or any other small things getting into my engine's air supply. Hardly overkill. I've seen Brett say the material he uses is adequate for this, but I'm curious to see what other have done. Do you think those scotchbrite pads are fine enough for this? I saw one member mention using a thin oiled material of some sort.

you beathe the same air, are you coughing?. I am all for concern but fear stands for false evidense appearing real. show me one bike that has dust particles due anyting to a RC51 motor, show me one ever:D it is too late to reinvent the wheel on this one it has been road and track tested for a decade and the conclusion is that the basic filtration is fine for the the box and our bike regardless of what we think.

I run no filtration on my RC30 and many other have for years again with no damage. I don't run in the sand and stuff but normal riding a screen works fine to block objects but air is no concern til i start to cough.

I have heard of some using fish tank filters too and a few dabs of oil if you like
 

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If you want something that is minimal but I "think" would be effective you might could used a material they use for silk screening. You could probably wrap it right over the stacks. I have some if you want me to send it up for you to try.
Machine Electronics Toolroom
 

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If you want something that is minimal but I "think" would be effective you might could used a material they use for silk screening. You could probably wrap it right over the stacks. I have some if you want me to send it up for you to try.
View attachment 32335

I like this idea
 

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I disagree with the notion that filters are unnecessary. Every engine I have ever seen has a filter of some sort supplied from the factory. It is absolutely essential to the longevity of the engine. I doubt a metal screen over the stacks would provide enough filtration, and I'd be afraid silk screen material might get sucked into the engine, especially after it deteriorates over time. Not worth the risk to me.

I use Uni Filter bulk foam that's available in cut to fit sheets. The same stuff used for motocross filters. I use the black foam, which is 60 pores per inch. I just oil the filter media like normal, then I seal the gaps with No Toil filter sealing grease. 6000 miles and no problems. I inspect it regularly and clean it as needed with the Uni spray cleaner and re-oil it and I'm done.

The filter media is $15 I think and there's enough to make about 2 or 3 filters in the package.
 

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I live in a relatively dusty environment so I did increase the filtration for my TO box.

I noticed a lot of fine dirt in my box with the original filter and despite knowing that it might not immediately hurt my engine I didn't like the idea of all this filth.

I grabbed an off the shelf Edelbrock tri filter (got em at PepBoys) and cut it to fit. It's about a 1/2" thick and is a very nice foam filter for the money. UNI is another option here as well.

I have not noticed any change in regards to "loss of power" or "response". The EB filters are used on motors with 5 times the volume without problems so I don't see an issue here as I am not trying to set lap records or be a dyno queen on the street. The airbox is much cleaner now as well.

I may try to change my setup once I move to a place with substantially less dust/rocks/godknowswhat. I also use a filter that I place in the front fairing (I keep it in the trunk) in case I get caught out in a dust storm. Even with both filters in place I don't have any issues.


BTW: we don't cough (until overwhelmed or triggerd) because the human body has filtration built in. Just sayin;)
 

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I disagree with the notion that filters are unnecessary. Every engine I have ever seen has a filter of some sort supplied from the factory. It is absolutely essential to the longevity of the engine. I doubt a metal screen over the stacks would provide enough filtration, and I'd be afraid silk screen material might get sucked into the engine, especially after it deteriorates over time. Not worth the risk to me.

I use Uni Filter bulk foam that's available in cut to fit sheets. The same stuff used for motocross filters. I use the black foam, which is 60 pores per inch. I just oil the filter media like normal, then I seal the gaps with No Toil filter sealing grease. 6000 miles and no problems. I inspect it regularly and clean it as needed with the Uni spray cleaner and re-oil it and I'm done.

The filter media is $15 I think and there's enough to make about 2 or 3 filters in the package.
i did not say unnecessary, just minimal:) again you mention longevity but where is any documemnted case of engine or valve wear on a 51 motor of any kind not just filtration? just saying

these bikes and motors are bullet proof nearly they don't wear out because of not enough air filtration:cool:

FWIW the OEM air filters were bench flow tested with enough CFM's to run a big block chevy
 

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I bought a foam-filter from a Kawasaki before I had my bike dyno'ed, wanted something I would be able to replace with similar filtration, and also add a little.

BTW I dont cough regularly, but I dont when I swallow a bee, which my bike also does every now and then, especially in little farm-denmark :D
 

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I also use mx type 2 layer oiled foam from our local manufacturer. A piece to make 6 filters cost the UK equivalent of $1.50. I have to change it approx every 3k miles as its usually full of small bits of grit, flies & other road rubbish. As the filter doesn't appear to affect the power on the dyno I figure I would be stupid not to use it. I would rather not have this stuff inside the motor however well built Honda's are.
Nick
 

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I used UNI Filter Foam when I gutted my airbox. Cost $12 for a sheet, and that will make 4 filters in my case.
I'm looking for a finer prefilter though as my airbox had some fine dust in it. I think I'll try oiling the media first, since I ran it dry the first time to see what would happen.


 

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What about a regular home air conditioning filter cut to size. They flow and filter really well.

Also going down at the track or catching a rock someone kicked on the street is a risk I'm not willing to take.
 

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I got my RC51 with a TurnOne airbox and some bullshit mesh household screen on it and was doing a new bottom end at 33K miles. The inside of the box, bottom of the tank, TB's, everything was covered in dust. Yeah, we breathe the same air, but we don't have a thousandth's of an inch clearance in our lungs, either.





 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I got my RC51 with a TurnOne airbox and some bullshit mesh household screen on it and was doing a new bottom end at 33K miles. The inside of the box, bottom of the tank, TB's, everything was covered in dust. Yeah, we breathe the same air, but we don't have a thousandth's of an inch clearance in our lungs, either.
I am concerned about mine after looking under the tank as well. I'm going to have to come up with a filter solution, prob work on it this thurs. There was a thin layer of fine dust covering pretty much everything inside the box. Not good.
 

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It's that dust that will kill your engine. Do some googling for "Cummins dusting" and you'll see the carnage that'll take place when dust is ingested into an engine, and why I so vehemently hate K&N "filters." The 1-3 HP you lose from having a proper filter on your bike is well worth not having to go through what I went through. Granted, it was a sweet excuse to throw some Wiseco 12:1's at it and have the heads ported while I was there... ;)
 

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where is any documemnted case of engine or valve wear on a 51 motor of any kind not just filtration? just saying
See my post with the pictures above.

these bikes and motors are bullet proof nearly they don't wear out because of not enough air filtration:cool:
I had 30 PSI compression in the front cylinder and 105 on the rear; a leak down showed massive losses through the intake valves and rings on both jugs.

FWIW the OEM air filters were bench flow tested with enough CFM's to run a big block chevy
Link?
 
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