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Discussion Starter #1
When doing shimming for the primary and secondary shaft on the transmission are the measurments for the shaft done from gear to gear or from the shim seat to the other shim seat? Thanks guys!
 
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Discussion Starter #2
if you're shimming gearbox end float then fit them and assemble the cases, torque the 8mm case bolts and measure the end float. it's a shit load easier.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Re: (brad black)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brad black »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you're shimming gearbox end float then fit them and assemble the cases, torque the 8mm case bolts and measure the end float. it's a shit load easier.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, what he said
 
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Re: transmission shimming (dr_apoc)

We just did a KTM bottom end and used the measurement and subtraction method it did not work worth a shit and i was really careful using a good parallel and depth mic. That's what I ended up doing, putting it together, measuring the float and adding shims to suit. What a PITA I cant wait to do the Duc
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Hi Rick, Got some pretty good roads? I'm a 181
oldtimer. From the fish Hatchery, to Pineola is
nice. BrownMountain Lookout, Is a good spot to let the brakes cool. Might see a spaceship!
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Re: (FoggyToppino Ed)

How did you decide where to take up the clearance if you measured from the outside? The way I've shimed my cases is to take a measurement from the outside of the case so that when I measure from the case halves I can confirm the clearance. Then I find out where the center of counter and mainshfts are in the case and shim them so that both shafts are centered with each other as close as I can get them with the shims available.This isn't neccessarily the center of the case halves. Maybe I'm being anal about it but I figure the closer their centers helps me to have the most amount of contact gear to gear.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
if you only have small changes to make then it often depends what shims are there already and what's easiest to change.

if you want to get really carried away (or if someone has f#%ked it up before you got there) then you can fit the gearbox shafts, shift drum and shift forks. without the crank in you can get in thru the cylinder holes and check the sideplay of the shift forks as you go thru the gears. that way you can see if anything needs to be moved in a particular direction.

on the 750 i'm putting in my 600m i had to do this as the lh input shaft gear (2nd?) was hitting against the sprocket bearing lock plate and had previously been rubbing on it - it's been apart before. so i had to move that shaft to the right quite a bit and also move the output shaft to the left from memory. so i then had to move the shift drum to make sure it shifted nicely, as it was not getting into a couple of gears.

actually, now that i think about it, i had to move the input shaft for clearance, the shift drum to work with one of the input shaft gear selections and then the output shaft to suit the new shift drum position.
 
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