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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've got a set of all balls steering stem bearings(00-01) and am unable to find the torque settings of these babies.
I cant open the d*mn pdf file on the all balls site, are they the same as the stock bearings 32Nm-24lbf/ft ?:confused:
TIA!!
 

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Behind In His Steering...
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I don't know the torque for the All Balls tapered bearings, but I know it's not the same as the OEM numbers. I'm sure somebody will post up, but why don't you send an email to AllBalls (since you're not in the US) and tell them the installation PDF is broken and ask them the torque...and then post back here so we all can know it!

I did this mod to my VFR (works great) and I merely snugged the adjustment nut by fingers so that there was zero axial movement and then installed the lock ring and nut as per OEM specs. Four years later, still perfect.
 

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Shane RC51
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889 Posts
I don't know what All Balls calls for, but I torqued mine to OEM spec. No problems, been on there for a long time, and I wheelie a lot. 24 ft lbs isn't THAT much if you think you're over doing it.

I was surprised to find out what Marchesini torque specs are on their wheels. HALF of what OEM calls for...
 

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RC51 only 4stroke I liked
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Tapered/roller bearings do not require as much torque as ball bearings.
Tighter than normal bearings will give you funky low speed steering too.

People messing with such settings have found 5-15ft-lb to work, and even 5 may be adequate. You may need to tighten them to twice that much when installing them to verify they sit in correctly, turn lock to lock a few times, recheck if it was still tight and turn a few times again. Then loosen them up to a lighter setting.

The bearings will withstand much higher load than the frame will.

Wheels are a different story. A properly tightened front wheel is key to good handling. The rear is basically important to keep the alignment tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Tapered/roller bearings do not require as much torque as ball bearings.
Tighter than normal bearings will give you funky low speed steering too.

People messing with such settings have found 5-15ft-lb to work, and even 5 may be adequate. You may need to tighten them to twice that much when installing them to verify they sit in correctly, turn lock to lock a few times, recheck if it was still tight and turn a few times again. Then loosen them up to a lighter setting.

The bearings will withstand much higher load than the frame will.

Wheels are a different story. A properly tightened front wheel is key to good handling. The rear is basically important to keep the alignment tight.
Thanks for your helpfull answer, i've repaired the all balls installation pdf and it says 28-30 ft/lbs.
When i tighten the bearings at this value, the steering force is way too high. So after fiddling around and checking the steering force with a force pull scale i've come around the same torque values as you've mentioned.
 

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RC51 only 4stroke I liked
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This is my technical advice to you anyhow, myself I clean them well with kerosene and lube them with marine bearing grease, the more the better as it keeps the dust and water away from them, and retighten them with the ultimate scientific tool set, hammer and chisel, to what I feel is tight with no resistance. In my opinion, when bearing movement shows resistance either they are dirty or they have begun to warp.

Honda has gotten away for the longest time using the same cheap ball bearings on heads since the CB750 of ?69?! RC's had larger ones, but even some 21st century CBRs shared bearings with the old CB.
 

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I've always gone by feel when doing steering head bearings.
+1,just make sure when you tighten bearings that:
1)your steering is smooth and NOT tight
2)when you step in frt.of the bike sqeez frt breke and pull your handle bars toward you there is no play in sterring stem bearings(clicking)!

Tightening tapered bearings at stock torque value is going to have that steering tight as hell and doing that you going to demage seals!
Good luck!
 
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