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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Got this mod from the fireblade forum, and didn't know if it was posted here allready. Just to be sure, here it is(again maybe). The quickshifter works perfect !
What you need;
*Power Commander 3 USB and the 9v battery connector.
*Spare (rear)brakelight switch with spring,
*5 feet of elec.wire.
First of all you'll need to fabricate a support angle for your brake light switch wich in my case is positioned at the aft bolt of the side stand.
see pic. The angle is made of T7075 2mm. wich can be obtained in any aircraft maintenance station for free. the holes are 10mm(sidestandbolt) and 13,5 for brakelight switch.for adjustment reasons MAKE SURE IT DOESN'T BEND!.

Now install the angle and press the brakelightswitch in the hole, connect the spring to the gearlever. see pic.
The cable can be routed through the frame opening or use some creativity and make your own "do it yourself" routing.:)
I used some waterproof splices with heatshrink tubing wich can be obtained from the same supplier.
The switching point of the brakelight switch is adjusted around 20mm gear lever movement, but this a personal matter.Check this with a multimeter.

Now connect the switch wires to the 9v battery PCIII connector.
Cut the 9v battery terminal and throw it away.
Move the red wire of the PCIII connector 1 position lower, so the black and red wires are in one line, and attach the brake light switch wires to the PCIII connector see pic.
All hardware is done, now to the software part.
Get the PCIII quickshifter software here Service get the "PCShiftKillEnable" file unpack it and run it while your computer is connected to the PCIII set the quickshifter to enable.
Under "power commander tools" the option set killtime is now activated and you can set the killtime and the desired rpm from where it should operate(mine is 65ms killtime and operational from 6000rpm.)
Good luck !
:wacky
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm planning the same thing, but using the GP shift pattern (VFR shifter).
Hardest part 'll be creating the support angle and determine the position of it. In your case the position of the switch 'll be above the shift vfr lever...somewhere.:confused: The all other is a piece of cake!:)
 

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That is some seriously cool stuff right there. Is that all the quick shifters are? Just a software operated by a switch when shifting up or down?

May sound stupid to ask these questions but I've never run one before. Very interesting!:twocents
 

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That is some seriously cool stuff right there. Is that all the quick shifters are? Just a software operated by a switch when shifting up or down?

Yes, once you've enabled the functionality in the PC3USB. I've also seen it done with a small switch similar to a clutch or brake light switch.
 

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i'm not familiar with pc3 at all. i got the bike with it already on it. Does the pc3 need to be on the bike when i open that file because i don't have a laptop anymore. I downloaded the pc3 software from the website and i downloaded the shift file deal. whats next. sorry for my newb ness
 

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Discussion Starter #10
i'm not familiar with pc3 at all. i got the bike with it already on it. Does the pc3 need to be on the bike when i open that file because i don't have a laptop anymore. I downloaded the pc3 software from the website and i downloaded the shift file deal. whats next. sorry for my newb ness
You can drag your computer to the pc3 or the pc3 to the computer, in the last case you'll need the 9v battery connector to power up the pc3 when it's attached to the computer(with a usb cable).
 

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Hardest part 'll be creating the support angle and determine the position of it. In your case the position of the switch 'll be above the shift vfr lever...somewhere.:confused: The all other is a piece of cake!:)
I've got the support bracket mostly ready to go, should have it mounted up using the bottom two bolts of the clutch slave, with the brake light switch in front of the front sprocket cover. Pretty sure I can zip tie the switch line to the clutch fluid line to keep it out of the way.

I'll post up results in a day or two.
 

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Is this for FULL Power upshifts without using the clutch ONLY? Does it work for down shifting as well?

I am asking because before now,... I have NEVER had an interest in a "Quick Shifter" as I can shift pretty damn quick as it is. However,... This mod. looks\sounds so Friggin' COOL!:clapper :rockon I've got to ask!:D


Thanks tuurio,

Peace Jeff
 

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Quickshifters only work on upshifts. You could feasibly use another sensor for downshifts, but that's a little overkill. The dynojet models don't even do that as far as I know. All you have to do for down shifting is blip the throttle or get a slipper clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Quickshifters only work on upshifts. You could feasibly use another sensor for downshifts, but that's a little overkill. The dynojet models don't even do that as far as I know. All you have to do for down shifting is blip the throttle or get a slipper clutch.
Yup:) ! no down, only up!!
 

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Thanks for posting this up!

Just did this today with the same brake switch, but forward of the shifter knuckle using the bolt for the aft oil line. I had to do it this way because of the sato reverse shift knuckle. It needs to be adjusted a little to get the angle right with the shift knucke and everything.
 

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I can take some measurements of my bracket to get you started if you'd like. I just used some 1/8 inch thick aluminum bar stock. I need to adjust it some more and do a road test, but it worked great when I ran it up in the garage.

A couple tips: when moving the pin on the 9v adapter the easiest way to get the old pin out is to take a drill bit the same size as the hole and stick it in there and just push down and the pin will come out the back. I also just used a longer bolt on the shift knuckle where the rod end is, and put a nylock nut on the backside of it. The spring is a little small to fit around the bolt, so you'll have to re-bend it around the bolt. Make sure it still has a long part coming around the other side of the bolt and that it is straight, as the bolt will slide through there when downshifting. You have to keep the spring a little loose because if you don't, it will be bending when you upshift. Not sure it that will work with the Mori setup.
 

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I can take some measurements of my bracket to get you started if you'd like. I just used some 1/8 inch thick aluminum bar stock. I need to adjust it some more and do a road test, but it worked great when I ran it up in the garage.

A couple tips: when moving the pin on the 9v adapter the easiest way to get the old pin out is to take a drill bit the same size as the hole and stick it in there and just push down and the pin will come out the back. I also just used a longer bolt on the shift knuckle where the rod end is, and put a nylock nut on the backside of it. The spring is a little small to fit around the bolt, so you'll have to re-bend it around the bolt. Make sure it still has a long part coming around the other side of the bolt and that it is straight, as the bolt will slide through there when downshifting. You have to keep the spring a little loose because if you don't, it will be bending when you upshift. Not sure it that will work with the Mori setup.

Would love to see some pictures. Im still weeks away from finishing my RC51 as I keep finding things to do to it and now im looking into building a motor which means it wont be done until beginning of the year. Right now my radiators are with my buddy who is mounting up some ducati 1098 fans on the upper and some 4" fans on the lower and trying to figure out how to get an oil cooler from a duc to work with the set up!!!
 
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