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Discussion Starter #1
Can someone please send me the service procedure for forks on an SP2. I have the same problem as most people with the service manual, which only shows the details for sp1 forks. I searched for hours but nobody really posted complete details. I got most of the tools, but I'm having a bear of a time trying to get the spring collar down enough to slide the holding tool under the jam nut. Also want to know if I'm missing any parts or if I'm actually doing it right. I keep finding info for sp1 forks and details I already have in the manual, which say's it's supposed to be official 2000-2005.

I went to the dealership to see if I could get the supplemental manual everyone say's there is; but no luck. I also asked how much to have them put it back together since I've got most of it back together. New oil seal and bushings. They said $200 for labor just for one fork.

TIA for any help!
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
jhord thanks for the reply! I do have a manual spring compressor kit with the donut and pins. I tried using ratcheting straps but not sure if I'm doing it right. I don't want to break or tweak anything. I'm also worried the pins will slip off since it only goes in like a 1/4 in. with tiny little pointed tips. The damper rod dosen't move much when I try to pull it up, and the spring collar seems like it's in deep. I'm thinking of getting the race tech spring compressor TFSC01. Would that work for my forks?

I've seen the other post with the procedure for the 1000rr I believe it was, but even that has differences like no joint collar? Maybe I'm missing that piece I don't know. That's why I want to get the specific sp2 procedure so I can be confident that I'm doing the right thing. I'm tempted to split the other fork to make sure I didn't lose anything the first time I dissambled the fork. The only reason I don't want to do that is because I don't want to mess up both forks.

Thanks again!
 

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I'd be a bit leery of the hand tool if it has tapered pins. I use the Race Tech tool. The pins have a step on them that lock into the spring spacer holes and help hold onto everything. (holes will need drilled bigger in the spacer) You're also working against the top out spring, so you'll really have to pull up on the damper rod to expose the nut assy. (or really compress the main spring) It's a PITA, no doubt. I also use a big hose clamp to help keep the spring from kicking out of the compressor sideways... hard to explain but once you start using the RT tool you'll understand! <LOL>
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks again for your time! I did order the RT compressor and ordered another manual 2000-2006 from Helminc.com. Hopefully It'll have the corrected service procedure. I'll post pics and update when it's done.
 

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Use a friend and the spring compressor tool, you'll be fine. The SP1 instructions are close enough. The only diff is the cap, as you probably saw in the thread from last week or two. Not only will the spring be compressed, you'll find that you will also be able to pull up a bit on the cap to get some room to shove two wrenches in there. I am so sorry I didn't take pics. It was a messy crappy job. And my jerry rigged all-thread spring compressor is an embarassing abomination. It could use some improvements. Perhaps I'll shoot a pic of it and send it to you if I can swallow my pride.

I checked out the RT site and the TFSC01. Looks way nicer tham my homemade crap. That TFHP01 holder thing might be helpfull too. I used a open end wrench under the lock nut, but my plastic spacers are a little buggered up now.
 
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