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Thank for posting this info, nicely done. I would love to do this swap to my bike.
Now if only somebody could come up with a install kit for it.:rolleyes:
 

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Hey Ben, I have been reading on other sites about this swap. They all talk about installing a bushing into the rear of the motor. Is the bushing really needed? Also is there any way to get your doc with out the gray background?
 

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Swingarm conversion sleeves ,CNC-Machined from T7075 Aluminum


...which you need for 02 swingarm-rebuilt for 00/01 Models 89 $
Or to lighten your existing sleeve,which is made from steel.
2 Versions available:

- I : If you have dissembled your Engine ,then it's easy just to mount the sleeve as it is
-II : if your Engine is mounted,I can machine the sleeve slightly (does not hurt the Function),
that your able to press the sleeve into crankcase without removing the Engine
Parts & Prices
This is what i came up with.
 

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Found this on one of the other sites

Any average machine shop can make an insert for the engine case that can be inserted through the frame without removing the engine. It can be one piece or two, Deminsions are as follows:
OD = .98 [24.90 mm]
ID = .78 [19.90 mm]
Length = 6.875 [175 mm]
 

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The sleeve is 25mm OD and the RHS spacer is only 27mm so the tightening force of the spindle is carried only on that 1mm ring around the circumference of the spacer where it contacts the engine cases. After much pondering, I decided on the following:-

2 identical sleeves 20mm ID, 25mm OD for 85mm with 3mm thick x 31mm OD flange at one end (88mm total sleeve length)

These are inserted into each side of the engine, but the flange on the right now means there is not enough space to fit the swing-arm, so replace the steel spacer beside the right hand swing-arm bearing, (originally 23mm long) with a 20mm version (aluminium should be fine, it only runs in a seal, not the bearing), which ensures the overall length is now as original.

i've pinched this from another post. having done the swing arm swap myself, using the spacer dimensions waldo has posted above, the bike wallows in fast sweepers and sends the handlebars into a predictable steady shake. this is due to the lack of contact area.

the above is the correct way to do this mod, hope this helps Ben.
 

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The sleeve is 25mm OD and the RHS spacer is only 27mm so the tightening force of the spindle is carried only on that 1mm ring around the circumference of the spacer where it contacts the engine cases. After much pondering, I decided on the following:-

2 identical sleeves 20mm ID, 25mm OD for 85mm with 3mm thick x 31mm OD flange at one end (88mm total sleeve length)

These are inserted into each side of the engine, but the flange on the right now means there is not enough space to fit the swing-arm, so replace the steel spacer beside the right hand swing-arm bearing, (originally 23mm long) with a 20mm version (aluminium should be fine, it only runs in a seal, not the bearing), which ensures the overall length is now as original.

i've pinched this from another post. having done the swing arm swap myself, using the spacer dimensions waldo has posted above, the bike wallows in fast sweepers and sends the handlebars into a predictable steady shake. this is due to the lack of contact area.

the above is the correct way to do this mod, hope this helps Ben.
So is it better to just buy Durbin kit? Does his have this same mod?
 

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thank Ben and everyone else that added to this discussion.

Question Ben,

Have you done the sp2 to sp1 mod your style meaning NO SLEEVE?? If not..then stop here.

If so, then how did it work/perform?

I've actually sold a sleeve someone else sold me because I wanted to do this mod..it end up being sold for $30 to another member..don't remember who it was.
 

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Big Thymer
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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Have I done the SP1 to SP2 swingarm swap? No, but I have parted out two SP1s with SP2 swingarms and neither had the special sleeves. I only rode one of them and it seemed fine. Well, I should qualify this a little more. I have swapped the SP2 swingarm onto the SP1 frame with no need for sleeves (it didn't wobble or do anything odd).

Some of you may remember my SP1 resurrection thread from a few years ago.

http://www.speedzilla.com/forums/rc51-general-discussion/52919-sp1-resurrection-thread.html

This particular bike had an SP2 swingarm on it when I got it, and no sleeves...The bike was rock solid, well done but cosmetically a little beat up.

Is there per chance someone out there that wants to do the swingarm swap who may be able to disable their bike for a while? First, try it w/o the sleeves and then try it with (if needed)?
 

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I think where there might be a differences is that. The sp1 with sp2 swingers had all of the sp2 hardware(motor mount bolt/nut/stock parts) and there for does not need the sleeve?

Where the sleeve come in is when the sp1 with sp2 swingarm but all the original sp1 motor mount.

Does that sound correct/make sense?
 

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I hope so. I have all the hardware and I was planning on doing this swap before the 17 of April (APEX track day). With the info I was given on Rouge, I had some bushings built (still need to pick them up). There was nothing said about the shoulder on the side. I will have to check the pivot bolt diameter to see if it is the same as the bushings. I will try to do this Monday.
 

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Mr E
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108 Posts
Right im installing an SP2 engine into a SP1.

The SP2 engine will not go in the SP1 Frame & Swingarm without taking the spacer out of the rear of the engine.

So if you were doing the SP2 swingarm swap into a SP1 i would say youd have to put this spacer into youre engine as the hole in it is the same size as the SP2 swingarm bolt, and this is what the rear of the engine is mounted on

Hope this helps

See Pics
 

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OK I just finished an eight hour graveyard shift and I think my head is clear so let me take a shot at this.

I have a SP1. I want to put a SP2 swing arm in my SP1. I have not measured anything but just taking a guess here. The SP2 pivot bolt is smaller in diameter then the SP1. This would be the reason for the spacer in the back of the motor. The reason others have done this and it has worked was they had all the SP2 hardware. The SP2 hardware screws into the frame. The SP2 hardware then centers and supports the smaller pivot bolt so the swingarm does not move around. If you do not have the spacer in the back of the motor, the motor could still move around.

That is my understanding for the needed spacer in the back of the motor. I would bet that the collars in the swingarm are also smaller. They may not press against the motor very well without the spacer.
 
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