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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've undertaken a project I think fellow RC fans will enjoy.

When the bike debuted in 2000 I purchased one in December of that year site unseen. I loved it but responsibility called three years & 15k miles later. My proud ride turned into a wedding ring. Fast forward to 2011 and numerous sportbikes later.

I bought this used 2004 from a friend of a friend for a very modest price. It was a Katrina survivor with some choice mods and a lot of botched cosmetic repairs. Mechanically it was sound so I did the deal and picked her up.

I modded my first one but it was a more custom than performance. Since then my tastes have changed. I'm into track days and really enjoy the racing heritage of the bike. So, I decided I would do a proper race style project. Clean title street bike easily ready for the track with looks to match.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I decided early on that I was going to build a one-off tail. Something that would make the bike look more contemporary. I pictured a bike with styling cues from a Moto2 machine.

This would require a custom subframe and relocation of a lot of important stuff usually residing under the tail. Job number one was to relocate the battery. I purchased a lithium ion unit from Hard Racing. The brand is Zero Gravity. It weighs 2.1 lbs and the base dimension is no larger than my blackberry smart phone.

I fabbed an aluminum box and mounted it in the space freed up from my jetisoned emmisions canister. The mounting plate utilizes the three front bolts of the belly pan. I left the starter relay in the tail and lengthened the hot lead to the starter.

Once everything was test fitted I pulled the box back out and insulated it. I also covered the header with wrap to shield my new expensive battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
With the battery out of the way I turned my attention to the subframe. I removed all existing brackets, made the appropriate cuts to shorten and brace it. Then I handed it over to my friend and top shelf welder Walker Morgan. He worked his magic and I had a modified subframe that would hold my electronics, eventually brace the tail, and retain the original seating position.

I am getting a bit out of chronological order because the upper brace for the tail was one of the last things to be attached. The tail was fabbed first but I will include pics of the subframe near completion for visual reference.

The bottom tray houses the ecu, converter unit, starter relay, and lots of misc wires and terminals. Its secured using the existing passenger peg brackets. The plate with Walker's logo holds the regulator/rectifier. Below is the tip over sensor. The relays are mounted on L channel aluminum stock with tabs cut to utilize the factory relay boots. The arching bar with Dzus fasteners at the top will support the finished tail. Not pictured are the relocated coils. One resides on the bottom left of the subframe. The other has been moved to the front right frame spar ahead and below the radiator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The project is already complete! I've been riding it for three weeks. The opening photo is a teaser.
I am sharing the process with everyone. I'm posting all the pictures and detail I have as time permits.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
With the subframe/elec tray and battery relocation complete I turned my attention to the tail. I had experience working with fiberglass and bondo before this project.

I didn't want to build the entire shape freehand because wet lay techniques are prone to distortion. So I used two shapes to create the initial structure. The challenge would then be bonding eveything and keeping it square.

For the area around the seat I copied the stock tail section. This would insure a nice fit with the fuel tank and preserve the standard seat position and its attachment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
With he major pieces formed up it was time to bond the sections. This is the tricky part. Hand layed fiberglass parts are not exactly lego blocks. I spent a lot of time making sure everything went together square and also looked right on the bike. Being an inch high or low can ruin the whole deal.

I fashioned the part that goes behind your butt by stretching 3M painters tape from the top surface to the seat pan and covering it with fiberglass. Defininitely cave man fabrication techniques but I know how to prep and finish stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I cleaned up the rough edges and began the bonding process. The white slats riveted to the fiberglass parts are two inch faux wood blinds. I needed something inexpensive and light to hold the initial shape. They are still in the part! But they have been reinforced greatly with several layers of high denisty fiberglass mat. These pics show the overall shape of the part start to appear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Before I get to the rest of the bodywork I want to include some info on the brake setup. I wanted to convert the front braking system to a radial mount caliper. I tried to stay with Nissin. I priced a new set of their radial calipers. The price was fair but for that money I could purchase a nice used set of Brembo monoblocs. And that is the direction I went. I sourced them off of Ducati.ms.

In addition to the caliper upgrade I scored a spanking new set of OZ wheels with Braking wave rotors and sprocket included. The assembly was set up to fit a cbr1000rr so I had new bushings machined to center everything up.

I then took the whole front end back to my freindly neighborhood machine shop. I made a wooden mock-up of roughly what I wanted and the guys at Tool Makers made me some lovely caliper brackets out of a big old chunk of 6061.

The setup uses the stock caliper mounts. The system has been plumbed with custom braided Spiegler lines and the lever and radial master cylinder are Brembo. Holy sh*t does this thing stop!
 

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Curse you for making us wait on a finished project!:p The size of the tail really looks like it'll flow well with the girth of these bikes.
 
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