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Primary Gear Pullers

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I have searched the forum and have found that most people recommend a snap on puller for the primary gear, but don't recommend a specific one. Snap On seems to make 50 or so pullers and I can't decide on which one to get. Can anyone tell me which specific puller they have gotten to work. I'm leaning towards on of the bar type pullers. Maybe this one http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog...talog and some 3' jaws and pins to go with it. Its either that or the bar kit which is $300, but hopefully you guys can give some suggestions.

TIA
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
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You need a hella strong puller for those things., You also do not have access to the gear all the way around because the case is in the way.
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Re: Primary Gear Pullers (jager)

I use to get by with the Snap-on CJ86-1 two jaw but now use the much superior Ducati puller #887131502.
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Re: (NC Rick)

Yeah I have already bent one puller, but it was a cheap one from autozone and I thought I would atleast try it.
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Re: Primary Gear Pullers (Ducshop)

Hey Mark I just shot you an email. I have considered the ducati tool also, but not sure how long it will take for my dealer to get it here. So Mark, section8, moto any idea as to cost ($208 on Bike Bandit) and delivery time. Thanks guys.
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Re: Primary Gear Pullers (jager)

The dealer we use said they are avail. and run less than $150 so you might want to give your dealer a chance.

I didn't get the e-mail, did you try [email protected] ?
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Re: Primary Gear Pullers (jager)

Just go to a tool rental house. Find one to fit the diameter of the gear and pick the strongest one you can find. I rented one for 10 bucks. Whenever I need it I just rent it. A few years back on the list, I remember a story of a guy loosing a finger tip from a weak puller that failed and exploded when pressure was applied.


Just make sure the puller can handle the load.
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Re: Primary Gear Pullers (Hyperpasta)

Ive got a craftsman three arm from sears thats been good to me. Its was about sixty bucks and if it ever breaks they will replace it. Keep the receipt and pray it doesnt' explode.
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we use a hydraulic puller i'm sure was made in china - one of those kit things form a tool shop. two big jaws that go behind the gear - about as much acess as you have. i also leave the nut on, but wound out to the end of the thread. that way it has full thread engagement for resistance and stops the gear and puller flying across the engine room.

fit the puller, crank it up and let it sit. use heat gun liberally on gear, getting it nice and hot. if still no go get a brass drift and give the gear a few sharp whacks. if that doesn't work let it sit some more.

i wouldn't bother with the ducati tool. we broke one a few years ago at a training course. gear: 1, puller: 0
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Re: (brad black)

A couple years ago, the dealer told me it was going to take a week or two to get one
and that if I brought it in to have them do it, they couldn't guarantee that they would not damage the bearing behind it.
So I spent about 10 hours in the machine shop at work at the time and made one. It aint gonna break. I'll post a pic when I get home if I'm not feeling lazy.
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Marvin and I used a tool at the local Ducati shop (we did 4 motors total) the one they have is made from solid billet, heat treated steel that just fit the gear exactly. They said the Ducati tool broke. The one they have was like $500, or so we were told.
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Re: (NC Rick)

The Ducati tool I use is solid billet that cups around half the gear, look at the drawing on Ducatis on line parts catalogue. There may have been an old style weaker one but the same one I've been using for the last 8 years has pulled off a few hundred primary gears showing no signs of wear. It helps to tap the end of the puller to pop the gear off. Sounds like there is some operator error and price gouging out there!
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Re: (brad black)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brad black »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i also leave the nut on, but wound out to the end of the thread. that way it has full thread engagement for resistance and stops the gear and puller flying across the engine room.</TD></TR></TABLE>

damn good safety suggestion. Thank you.
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Ducshop, Yes, the puller we used is the new Ducati Tool, The old style that Myers Ducati had broke. If this new billet tool breaks,,,,I don't want to be around!!
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don't think the one we broke was billet. wasn't that strong looking from memory. it was 6 years ago.
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Re: (brad black)

I thought I would let the people interested know which puller I got and how it worked. The ducati unit looked like the right tool for the job and really wasn't too expensive. My only problem with getting the ducati tool was that I might need a gear puller to do some modding to the ktm in the future. So I really wanted a universal puller and it would be nice if it was a hydraulic one (but not more $ than the ducati tool...good luck). Well I find this 8 ton hydraulic puller kit. Comes with a few different options, but really only one(2 jaw setup) for the ducati. For 99 bucks I really wasn't expecting much, but I thought I would give it a try (shipping was $30, its heavy
) After a month or so I finally received the puller, it was on back order...my luck. The 2 jaw setup is a little too wide at the top to clamp onto the gear and line up with the shaft perfectly and at first I didn't think it was going to work. But after trying a few different ways of putting it on the gear I got a pretty good match b/w the shaft and the ram. Started cranking the sucker down, with my hand
, and the gear came off pretty quickly. Thanks for the tip brad, it would have sucked if the gear went flying through the wall.
So to end the story, I'm happy with my purchase...it did it's job and without much fuss.
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Re: (jager)

Think about how easy that job will be in the future,congrats..I bookmarked that tool as reference...thanks
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Re:

After breaking a couple heavy Craftsman/Snap-On type pullers I bought a hydraulic puller that is made in Australia. (Brad, any ideas? I forget the brand) It works really well and comes in handy for other uses. Like someone said, with the puller on damn good and tight give the gear itself a really heavy whack with a brass drift and that usually pops it loose. That seems to be the key. I too leave the nut on, but only about 1/2 turn loose. It will make a definite *CRACK!* noise and the nut will tighten again. Impact it loose again and then you can remove the primary by hand. I'm afraid to loosen the nut a lot because when the gear flies loose it might bugger the threads when it hits the nut (??) Above all, wear safety glasses and heavy welding gloves or the like. I'm not kidding. I go as far as covering everything up in heavy rags. One time when I broke a puller, the piece flew about 75' to the back of the shop and rattled around a couple times. If it hit you in the head it would put a serious hurt on you, maybe even penetrate. If it hit a nearby bike it would cost you a lot of $$!

>> Late night update, mine's a Snark brand puller. Just made easy work of a 748 primary...<<


Modified by jhord at 5:35 AM 2/23/2005
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