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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 1st attempt at painting bodywork for a trackbike turned out pretty good. I finally got my bodywork that I bought off the net. As most here warned me Cheetah bodywork is no where near Sharkskinz quality so I spent the better part of my time sanding and smoothing the stuff. The deal I got on the net came with 6 DZUS, the rivet type. Arrrgh I hate those [email protected]$%f#%kers! I needed 10 arms to drill, hold and rivet the things. I got them on after about 2 hours of hell. The bodywork is very flexible and almost feels rubbery. It does not have a good finish, primer sprayed over a rough and bumpy surface. I only have the lower attached to the upper at this point. I have not tried to mount the stuff yet. The holes came pre-drilled, they were smaller than what you actually need but I took measurements off my OEM stuff and opened up the holes. I'll be damn lucky if it all lines up. It was a good deal, Graves upper bracket, 6 DZUS (bling bling gold ones) and never used Cheetah bodywork all for $540 shipped. The Graves bracket alone cost $180 new.

Now on to painting, since I am not going to get caught up in the go race/being broke all the time again. I decided to spray the rough Cheetah's myself. I have no painting experience but I did sand it smooth as I could get it with 220 then 800 grit paper. Gosh it is hot out right now. I bought the rattle can automotive paints found at wal-mart. My paint scheme is simple, all gloss white upper, lower and tail, I kept the frt. fender gloss black like stock. I went with white because 3/4 of the tank is white with only a blue top. I have a pair of GSXR emblems, black numbers and a few other decals to add to it along with outlining the number plate areas in black pin striping. The white turned out real nice for my skill level. Smooth texture of paint but the bodywork does show dimples, dips and high spots with shadows. I can't do anything about that. The black front fender was not easy and I plan on wet sanding it down and spraying it lightly again. I had a insect or two try to land on it, friggin bugs love black. It'll work the way it is for what I intend to use it for either way. I decided not to try and add any blue to the scheme, way over my head at this point plus I could not find a suitable match for the retro Suzuki blue on the cheap. I have $20 in the whole job and I am quite happy with it. I need to order a LP lite speedscreen and I will be done with this project. I estimate it will only take me 2 hours tops to swap OEM plastics to race bodywork. This bike is so simple in the design, you really got to hand it to Suzuki, it is engineered very well for take down. I don't really ride it on the street much now after I got the break in miles behind me but it's nice to know I can go rip with my friends legally when I want to. Not that I need a 750, I can do quite well on the V-strom when riding with them. The 750 is just so much fun!


Painting is tough work! I admire the guys who do this for a living. At least now when I go to the track with my bike I don't have to worry about the expensive stock bodywork anymore, let'er rip!!


I'll post some pics when I finally mount the stuff in the next few weeks. Pics are no good right now since I am still waiting for the paint to cure completely before adding decals and of course it will all look better on the bike.

White ghost GSXR!!!
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Re: Painting (BALLS)

Did you rattle can it or use a gun?

You should have sanded it with 220 and stopped, or gone to 300-400 grit tops. 800 is for cutting down any orange peel or other defects in the clear coat. You need the rough surface to give the paint something to hold on to - the base and clear will fill in the peaks and valleys.

I do bodywork for fun – somehow it is never really fun while I am doing it, but I have fun planning the paint job and get satisfaction when it is complete.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: Painting (Eddie)

It was still real rough even after 220 and 800. I only used maybe a sheet of 800 on all the surface and as you already know the 800 fills up quickly and becomes ineffective so I'm sure the surface was still way rough.

I rattle canned it but the cans had a unique nozzle that sprayed in a wide even fashion. I did not get real close and I layed it on in strokes back an forth. I was amazed at how good I did really. I went through alot of paint it seemed I guess with me going slow and far away had something to do with that. I held the can away as to avoid a heavy spot and a run which would mean more work.

As rough and wavy as the bodywork was I'm glad I spent no more than I did on it. A $300 paint job would have looked the same as my $20 job in the end. I would not buy Cheetah bodywork new.
I know your work is good eddie I've seen it here so don't rag me to bad when you see mine. In my eyes I did pretty darn good for a 1st timer. White is pretty hard to screw up


I am not worried about it flaking off it seems to be on there pretty good now. I flexed the pieces this morning and all was good no cracks and nothing popped off. It cured real good overnight. I think I could wait another day and apply the decals. After the rocks and debris from the track starts chipping it up it'll look normal in no time.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Re: Painting (BALLS)

i painted the bodywork on this bike by my self, used a gun. If you follow the right steeps it's going to look good but not show room quality for sure. You need lots of practice and time to do that.

 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Re: Painting (Giannis)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Giannis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i painted the bodywork on this bike by my self, used a gun. If you follow the right steeps it's going to look good but not show room quality for sure. You need lots of practice and time to do that.

</TD></TR></TABLE>


Very true statement. I know that with me doing it showroom quality is not going to happen. Remember it's track bodywork not Dairy Queen parking lot show quality. If it looks good 50' away I'm happy
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Re: Painting (BALLS)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BALLS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Very true statement. I know that with me doing it showroom quality is not going to happen. Remember it's track bodywork not Dairy Queen parking lot show quality. If it looks good 50' away I'm happy
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Amen to that brother.....I rattle canned my bike black and yellow....came out fairly nice...got several compliments....and then when I lowslided, I sanded things back smooth and, voila, all fixed. Why on earth would anyone spend $300-400 to paint race bodywork if you name is not Eric Bostrom?
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Re: Painting (roadkill)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by roadkill »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Why on earth would anyone spend $300-400 to paint race bodywork if you name is not Eric Bostrom?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Call me stupid but I did it twice
The last job I had done on my '04 600 the yellow was not even close to matching my OEM tank yellow, it still looked good but in my eyes not $300 good. Luckily I never crashed hard so both bikes stayed looking pretty good for a long time, well the '01 model I did go down in T6 at Road Atlanta in the gravel but the paint held up good. I am pleased with my latest project. Painter I am not
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Re: Painting (Giannis)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Giannis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i painted the bodywork on this bike by my self, used a gun. If you follow the right steeps it's going to look good but not show room quality for sure. You need lots of practice and time to do that.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Got more info on your GSXR Giannis?
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Re: Painting (BALLS)

BALLS said:
As rough and wavy as the bodywork was I'm glad I spent no more than I did on it. A $300 paint job would have looked the same as my $20 job in the end. I would not buy Cheetah bodywork new.
/QUOTE]

wavy-yep; flexible-yep, you forgot light and durable!

with the right prep, the bodywork looks great and the holes will line up too.


CHEETAH BODYWORK:



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