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I have read alot of good info and advice here about what sprockets and chains to buy, and I have done the calculations with the gear xl sheet off of Rouge but, even though I see the mathematical differences in the different gearing set ups I have no idea of how to relate that to a seat of the pants feeling. I went from the stock to a 16/42 set up for the fear of going to low and I kinda like it but think it could be a little lower. I am really thinking about going to a 15/41, or even try the 15/42 set up. I'm going to stick with the 530 pitch since its a street bike and I'm more concerned with life span than weight savings. Can anybody offer some seat of the pants street riding advice for me on the difference between the 15/41 and 15/42 set ups?

Thanks,
Chris.
 

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a 1 tooth difference on the rear will be very hard to notice on the street. stock is 16/41 if im i remember correctly, so going to 15/41 is somewhat equal to going up 3 teeth on the rear which is a nice difference for the street. stock gearing doesnt allow the bike to pull to redline in 6th gear, but then again that shouldnt be a concern on the street anyway. your speedo will read much higher when you shorten your gearing, and it will also rack up miles faster (on the odo) so you may want to pick up something like a speedo healer. as far as sticking with a 530 pitch, dont worry about that, as a good aftermarket chain is going to be more durable than the stock 530 anyway. but for street use id recommend the RK Gold 520 as its a combination of light weight, and strength. its slightly heavier than the DID, but has a slightly higher tensile strength. you should reach out for [email protected] be sure to tell him i sent you.. he has the best prices on chains and sprockets (as well as other items) on the net.
 

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I think stock gearing is 16/40...When I got my bike it had a 16/43 530. Over the summer I purchased an all steel 520 15/42 and what a difference. I was a little concerd on the 520 myself but I had a hell of a time finding a 530 all steel 15/42. The bike def. revs alot faster and you find yourself shifting alot more, you can cruise in 6th gear now. Before I hardly ever hit 6th unless I was on the highway. I also found the front wheel is very light with this setup but really took alot off in the top end. Which is fine by me, I just wanted the bike to be a little more flickable and that it is.
 

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16/40 is stock...
mine has lasted 24k miles, but time to replace.... i'm going with 15/42 on 520 pitch... RK... mine is both a daily rider and track day hero
i'm not rearly fast enough on track to be worried about what the top end difference is...
looking forward to putting it on as soon as it gets here.
 

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My :twocents is, You're fine sticking with the 530 seriers, also, 16\40 IS the OEM set-up.
FWIW and or FYI., I myself run 16/42 and I also have 15, 40, 41 and 43 sprockets because I like screwing around changing up my gearing!... Why, because I find it VERY Interesting seeing what the gearing changes do! At one point, I was actually changing out my rear every 2 or 3 wks, again, because I liked seeing & Feeling the changes as to how she would Run with the different sprockets AND it is easy as Pie to do, pulling the rear wheel and a few nuts and reinstalling = a piece of CAKE! :D

What "I" tend to go back to mostly is the 16/42 set-up, I like this best... taking off from the line it is NOT as quick as 15/42 but I like that it pulls alittle longer in between gears!:rockon

Grab yourself a 15tooth front sprocket and you'll now have yourself 2 extra gearing set-ups to try, as YOU have stated.;)

And +1 about the Speed-O healer, get yourself 1 of these as well!

I Hope this Helps,

Peace Jeff
 

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D.I.D makes the best chains period... You guys with RK & EK chains have no idea how good the DID stuff is or you'd never use anything else again.

The ERV3 520 racing chain is the lightest and strongest 520 chain on the market. As a Track Instructor I have used one for over 14,000 miles of nothing, but constant track abuse on my 1000RR. I have similar mileage on other track only bikes including my RC51 & both street & track with the GSXR1000 K5 which is rough on chains to say the least :D


DID is also making a brand new "street" chain that is by their standards rated to 1200cc's and weighs .3 of a lb more than the ERV3 520 Racing chain. It's been a very hot selling item with the street riders as it is only a tad bit more expensive than the ERV3 chain, but we have also been selling superlight weight STEEL rear sprockets that are ALSO cheaper so the price is basically a wash by the time you add it all together.


BTW I don't remember if it was this forum or not that I mentioned it on, but we weighed one of those really expensive Stealth Sprockets that use the steel teeth riveted to an aluminum carrier not long ago & it actually weighed more than the OEM steel sprocket :rolleyes:
 

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D.I.D makes the best chains period... You guys with RK & EK chains have no idea how good the DID stuff is or you'd never use anything else again.

The ERV3 520 racing chain is the lightest and strongest 520 chain on the market. As a Track Instructor I have used one for over 14,000 miles of nothing, but constant track abuse on my 1000RR. I have similar mileage on other track only bikes including my RC51 & both street & track with the GSXR1000 K5 which is rough on chains to say the least :D


DID is also making a brand new "street" chain that is by their standards rated to 1200cc's and weighs .3 of a lb more than the ERV3 520 Racing chain. It's been a very hot selling item with the street riders as it is only a tad bit more expensive than the ERV3 chain, but we have also been selling superlight weight STEEL rear sprockets that are ALSO cheaper so the price is basically a wash by the time you add it all together.


BTW I don't remember if it was this forum or not that I mentioned it on, but we weighed one of those really expensive Stealth Sprockets that use the steel teeth riveted to an aluminum carrier not long ago & it actually weighed more than the OEM steel sprocket :rolleyes:
Stop it with all that logic and common sense, let the people buy $80 sprockets if they want.

FWIW, I just put on a DID ERV3 520 with a 15/41 setup and I am digging it. Not sure how much lighter it was than stock as I didn't wieght them, but felt quite a bit lighter. The bike's front end is much lighter now also. I wasn't going to go with a 520, but I got a screaming deal, I think it was $130 for the whole setup on clearance. I got 12k out of the stock chain and sprocket before it got a nasty tight spot (what the hell causes that anyways?)

Oh, and it's been said that since the 520 (if you get a better x-ring chain like the DID) has better lubrication than a standard o-ring 530 like the stocker, the 520 should last just as long if not longer.
 

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Can anybody offer some seat of the pants street riding advice for me on the difference between the 15/41 and 15/42 set ups?

You won't notice the difference in one rear tooth.

The standard for most guys here is 15 41 and for good reason. It's not too bad on the highway yet it's still plenty quick.

My next change, (if I ever get there) will be 15/41, 520, with a steel rear.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You won't notice the difference in one rear tooth.

The standard for most guys here is 15 41 and for good reason. It's not too bad on the highway yet it's still plenty quick.

My next change, (if I ever get there) will be 15/41, 520, with a steel rear.

Thanks for all the input from everybody. I know that one extra tooth on the rear wouln't make a huge difference but I could tell the difference in two extra teeth. I was more worried about going to the 15 tooth front. Some have wrote that after they did that they couldn't keep the front tire down and others write that it made it more ridable. I think I am going to the 15/41 set up and try it out. Like I said I kinda like the 16/42 setup but would like a little lower gearing. I'm not too picky on the 520 or 530 pitch nor the steel or alum sprockets, it's a daily driver and a fun toy and I know I'm not going to be out to set any lap records so the weight difference make no difference to me.

Thanks,
Chris
 

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15 front isn't going to make your front wheel lighter unless you are ham fisting it:D
 

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15 front isn't going to make your front wheel lighter unless you are ham fisting it:D

Just don't add nitrogen instead of air in the front tire...that also lighten it..I couldn't keep the front wheel down.:D
 

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Discussion Starter #12
15 front isn't going to make your front wheel lighter unless you are ham fisting it:D

Just don't add nitrogen instead of air in the front tire...that also lighten it..I couldn't keep the front wheel down.:D

Not too much of the ham fisting going on anymore, way too many DPS around now thanks to alot of people in the US with drug habits. I miss the good ole days of just one trooper in this sector, now it's crawling with DPS troopers and Border Patrol agents. :banghead Which is such a shame, I've had some really good rides between here and the hill country.

What do most use to change their chains? I have whats left of a Motion Pro chain breaker but the first and last time I used it the pin broke( not a good feeling about them now), so I will need to get that tool also.
 

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D.I.D makes the best chains period... You guys with RK & EK chains have no idea how good the DID stuff is or you'd never use anything else again.

The ERV3 520 racing chain is the lightest and strongest 520 chain on the market.
LDH,

personally i always use the did erv line, and currently have the erv3 520 on my bike, but the rk gold has a higher tensile strength, and the ek even higher, but that also comes with a weight penalty.

The EK MVXZ 520 is rated at 9,000 lbs tensile strength.
The RK GXW 520 is rated at 8,800 lbs tensile strength.
The DID ERV3 520 is rated at 8,650 lbs tensile strength.

Facts you should no about Motorcycle Chains!
 

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D.I.D Cutting and Riveting Chain Tool - 13x Forums That looks nice.

As far as removing a rivited or endless chain, don't mess with chain tools, grinders, or other such nonsense. Just use a large bolt cutter. It's super easy and takes two seconds.
I like a creative mind when it comes to picking the right tool for the job. When I was still working every now and then I'd break out the "BFH" to get the job done. You know Big F**king Hammer!

I went with a 16X42 just because of harmonics while tooling around town and cruising on the interstate. Had a 15X42 drive but seemed to buzz or vibrate the grips more when at the right or wrong RPM.
 

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I have a 15/41 set up on my 03' in a DID 530ZVM2 and a steel front sprocket and a SuperSprox rear sprocket. I have tried a DID 520ERV3 set up in 15/41 and killed it in about 4k miles. I love the all around power and feel it's a great set up for canyon rideing or even the track. The MPH and trip miles will be slightly off but get a speedo healer to fix that problem. Good luck on your choice.
 

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D.I.D Cutting and Riveting Chain Tool - 13x Forums That looks nice.

As far as removing a rivited or endless chain, don't mess with chain tools, grinders, or other such nonsense. Just use a large bolt cutter. It's super easy and takes two seconds.
That's a good idea, but about one minute with a dremel and one minute with a quality chain tool and you get the same effect. Some people might not have or need bolt cutters, but they for sure will need a chain tool.
 

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I've been running 15/42 for the past 9 yrs and love it for the street. It makes pulling away from stop signs and traffic lights a lot easier and you don't have to slip the clutch as much. It's about a 12% difference in revs, thus what was 3K rpm before is now about 3350, not a big difference in normal operations but a big difference in performance. Remember, at 60 mph our bikes are turning about 3K and a 600 is turning close to 5K during normal cruising.
 

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Not too much of the ham fisting going on anymore, way too many DPS around now thanks to alot of people in the US with drug habits. I miss the good ole days of just one trooper in this sector, now it's crawling with DPS troopers and Border Patrol agents. :banghead Which is such a shame, I've had some really good rides between here and the hill country.

What do most use to change their chains? I have whats left of a Motion Pro chain breaker but the first and last time I used it the pin broke( not a good feeling about them now), so I will need to get that tool also.
man..you ain't lying about dumb pieces of shit everywhere...I see you have your fare share in Texas. Was going to head that way for visit or longer stay but it didn't pan out.

I have that MP chain breaker also...broken a few pins to know exactly how to use them correctly..bought 3 more pins for future ..uummmm FUBAR??:D

I run DID 530 get about 20k from the sprocket/chain combo. Used Rk once and killed it less than 10k...around 5k to be exact but was too darn cheap/piss to change them out.:banghead

Pretty happy with DID:rockon
 
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