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ok so when are these going to be ready cause i really want one and also how much will it be? i would be able to do almost eveyrthing except the programming of the chip part!
 

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http://www.moli.com/rc51
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Sweet Deal!
Good write up man, However I would have placed it on the left side as well as removing 4 or 5 of those keys:wtf get rid of all of them but 1!;) LOL:p


By the way, have you tested yet when it gets dark, how's "pdfruth" sensor work when the SUN goes down?... Pat did an Awesome JOB by the looks of it:clapper


Peace Jeff
The "model" I got from pdfruth was built before the ambient light sensor upgrade was instituted. The LED is nice and bright and can easily be seen in the day. I haven't had it out at night yet, but I'd guess it'll be nice and bright then. I can see the red glow emanating from my helmet now.:D

As for the keys:wacky I know, I know. Actually all but one of the 4 is basically required. The fourth key, which is for a hard luggage piece I own and was recently used on a 500 mile road trip, needs to come off the ring, I just keep forgetting to do so. One key is for a motorcycle lock since I lock the bike everywhere I go. And another is for the "shed" I lock my motorcycle into when not in use.
 

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Captain Obvious
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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
So... it's been a few months since my last udpate. So far I've been using one on both my RC51 and my ST1300, with no problems. And those that have installed one of my prototypes, over the winter, have reported good results. Although there hasn't been alot of DIY'r interest/activity here on the RC51 forum, there has been alot of activity on the ST forum, with numerous like-minded DIY'rs building GPIs of their own.

One of the guys on the ST forum has managed to adapt the code (a one-line code change) to make it work on his VFR.

Yet another of the guys on the ST forum picked up the project and adapted it for his VStrom. Adding a couple of other cool features, like a volt meter, and an LCD display (instead of an LED).

I've since, designed a custom printed circuit board, and had a small test run manufactured by ExpressPCB. They're a bit spendy (in small runs), but well worth it. The quality is outstanding. This speeds the construction process considerably. I updated the opening posts of the thread to include some pics of the new custom PCB.

I've also stocked up on all the discrete components required to build these things, and have been selling "Builders kits". So for the DIY'rs out there... if you can't (or don't want to) locate all the parts, I've got pre-packaged kits available. I updated the opening post with information about the kits.
If anyone is insterested, PM me for price and availability.

As for those who are looking for a "pre-built", "production quality", "Plug-n-Play", GPI... it's just not going to happen. At least not by me anyhow. I'm getting this question more and more lately. Believe me, I'd love nothing more than to make these things available to all my good friends here, and elsewhere. My problem is time... I just don't have any. My job keeps me on the road (or on a plane) most of the time. At most, I'd maaaybeeee be able to crank out two a week (on Saturday mornings). As for going commercial... I'm afraid it's probably not too likely. In order to do it right, achieve economy of scale and tool up for mass production, would require a significant up-front capital investment. The savvy business person (at least those I've talked to) realizes immediately that, because this has all been done in the open, and the code is GPL, there is considerable risk to that kind of investment. Anyone, who wants to, could/can do the same thing at any time. And that potential competition would render the investment worthless.
So, you see, it's a double-edged sword. By committing all of this to the public domain, I've made it possible, for anyone who wants, to make these things. And it's that risk that'll keep a mass producer from investing in mass production. For that reason, this will probably remain a DIY'rs project. For the DIY'rs (like me), this is a great way to learn something, and get a useful little gadget "on-the-cheap".
I've personally put easily hundreds of $$ into tools/supplies/packaging/postage/etc. just to make builders kits available to those interested & capable DIY'rs. Not to mention the countless (~hundreds) hours of R&D. And have yet to come anywhere close to breaking-even. So far this has been a fun little hobby. I've enjoyed sharing (and have others share) ideas along the way. I fear that's as far as it'll go... but I could be wrong.
 

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I picked up one these builders kits from Pat and I have been getting it together this week. First off I just want to say thanks to Pat for his work in not only creating this, but also for putting together the builders kits and for answering all my questions as I go along.

After a few emails with Pat he suggested to post up some of my questions so that it may help others if they come across the same situation.

1. I had a problem with the jumper header and block as the pins seemed too large to go into holes on the board. Here was Pat's response "If you pull each of the two header pins out of the plastic base they are seated in, and then wiggle them into the circuit board holes, perhaps applying slight heat, they will go in. Then slide the plastic base down over top of the pins, once they're finally inserted into the circuit board holes. I've done it that way several times, with good success." It works like a champ.

2. Looking at the schematic for the LED I wasn't sure on the connections and confirmed with Pat that the numbers listed on the schematic for the pins are referenced on the included spec sheet for the LED from Kingbright.

3. I got the mainboard completed but had seen no pictures of the LED board in the enclosure. While the schematic tells me how it works, I'm a visual person and needed some assitance with the setup of the Learn button, Photocell, and associated wiring. Pat provided me with some hi-res photos and I can host them but he may already have them out there.


Anyone else building one or have it done and have any suggestions or tips? Post up if you do!
 

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I picked up one these builders kits from Pat and I have been getting it together this week. First off I just want to say thanks to Pat for his work in not only creating this, but also for putting together the builders kits and for answering all my questions as I go along.

After a few emails with Pat he suggested to post up some of my questions so that it may help others if they come across the same situation.

1. I had a problem with the jumper header and block as the pins seemed too large to go into holes on the board. Here was Pat's response "If you pull each of the two header pins out of the plastic base they are seated in, and then wiggle them into the circuit board holes, perhaps applying slight heat, they will go in. Then slide the plastic base down over top of the pins, once they're finally inserted into the circuit board holes. I've done it that way several times, with good success." It works like a champ.

2. Looking at the schematic for the LED I wasn't sure on the connections and confirmed with Pat that the numbers listed on the schematic for the pins are referenced on the included spec sheet for the LED from Kingbright.

3. I got the mainboard completed but had seen no pictures of the LED board in the enclosure. While the schematic tells me how it works, I'm a visual person and needed some assitance with the setup of the Learn button, Photocell, and associated wiring. Pat provided me with some hi-res photos and I can host them but he may already have them out there.


Anyone else building one or have it done and have any suggestions or tips? Post up if you do!
Yes indeed,I am building mine @ work of course and have the E.E. dept. at my disposal.

Any shared tips are great,especially NOW that I plan on elkhart lake with stt this Monday.

thanks:D
 

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Captain Obvious
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Discussion Starter · #50 · (Edited)
.... I got the mainboard completed but had seen no pictures of the LED board in the enclosure. While the schematic tells me how it works, I'm a visual person and needed some assitance with the setup of the Learn button, Photocell, and associated wiring. Pat provided me with some hi-res photos and I can host them but he may already have them out there.
Here are some digital pics of how I constructed the LED display. Certainly not the only way to do it. But it seems to work well.
As you can see, I chose to mount the "Learn" button to the back of the LED display board. The switch is operated by inserting a straightened paper clip thru a small hole in the back of the display enclosure. But the button could certainly be mounted anywhere you want. Some have mounted it inside the black box, with the main circuit board. And others have mounted it remotely (i.e. in the fairing pocket on the ST1300).

You can also see that I chose to sandwich the photo-cell (aka ambient light sensor) between the LED display and the circuit board that it's mounted to. Again, this can be mounted anywhere. Options are endless. Use your imagination.

I also chose to socket-mount the LED display (using 8-pin SIPS). I did this for a couple reasons. 1) So I could swap out another display at some point. 2) So that I could easily get at the photo-cell and/or other wiring under the display.
 

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Captain Obvious
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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
When I get the display all done, I glue the laser-cut red acrylic bits together, making a nice little display enclosure.
I use "Plumbing GOOP". It's strong [enough] stuff. But not so strong that it can't be dis-assembled. And makes the enclousure reasonably water tight. You can find it at Wal-Mart, or Home-Depot, or Lowes, or <substitute your favorite h/w store>.
 

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Captain Obvious
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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
I'm getting one for my RC51, but I would also like one for my VFR if it would work. Anyone else?
One of the fellas over on the ST-owners.com forum (scoutdriver73), has adapted the GPI to his VFR. I thought I'd cut/paste his contribution here.

"The hardware is the same as for the ST. The clutch and neutral signals can be found at the clutch diode, just like the ST (the wire colors are even the same). The diode is in the fuse panel just in front of the battery. The IPG and VSS signals can be found on the Grey plug for the ICM, which is on the back of the bike. All you need to take off to access these points is the seat.

The IPG is the yellow wire and the VSS is "one" of the two pink wires. See pictures for more info.

The program for the PIC had to be modified slightly to get it to work with the VFR. The VSS signal is a much lower frequency than on the ST. Below is the single change to the code. Find the code block in the original and replace with below."

Code:
; This routine tallies up counter shaft rotation cycles emitted by the VSS.
; Each time this ISR is driven, the counter shaft will have rotated a fraction of a full revolution.
; Note: On the Honda RC51, there are 27 pulses per counter shaft revolution.
; Here we effectively divide the VSS frequency by 128.
; We use a RAM variable (VSSINT) as a boolean indicator of these rotations.
; Every 64 cycles from the VSS will result in the VSSINT variable switching from 0x00 to 0xFF
; or vise versa. The state of the VSSINT variable is monitored in the main loop routine below.
    incf VSSINTS,F ; Increment the VSSINTS ram variable
 
;************************************************* ********************************************
; Changed freq divider from 128 (6) to 16 (3) due to the decreased number
; of pulses on the VFR - Edited 03/22/08 by Joe Wagnell
    btfss VSSINTS,3 ; Have we tallied up 8 (0x08, B'00001000') of em yet? 
;************************************************* ********************************************* 
    goto IntSvcExit ; No
    clrf VSSINTS ; Yes, so restart the counter
    comf VSSINT,F ; And toggle the VSSINT flag
 

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I need some help identifying the polarity of a couple of capacitors, C3 and C5. I think the longer lead is positive, but I'm just guessing based on how I interpret the markings. I don't have access to electronics catalogs anymore to try to look it up.

I had the same problem with C4 but the picture clearly indicated which way it went.

Thanks to whoever knows for sure what those markings mean with reference to polarity.
 

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Captain Obvious
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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
I need some help identifying the polarity of a couple of capacitors, C3 and C5. I think the longer lead is positive, but I'm just guessing based on how I interpret the markings. I don't have access to electronics catalogs anymore to try to look it up.

I had the same problem with C4 but the picture clearly indicated which way it went.

Thanks to whoever knows for sure what those markings mean with reference to polarity.
Yup... In the kits I've been providing;
C3 & C5 are both dipped tantalum electrolytic, and yellowish in color. If you look at the markings very closely (if you're like me, you may need a magnifying glass), you'll see a small "+" (plus sign) nearest the positive lead. Which also happens to be the longer lead, in this case.

C4 is an aluminum can, radial-leaded, electrolytic, and black in color. The side of the can will have a white stripe, with a "-" (minus sign), indicating the negative lead. Which also happens to be the shorter lead, in this case.
 

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I have been unable to get the connectors out of the fuse box (clutch diode) to avoid splicing wires. Don't you have to go in from the inside of the box with a screwdriver or something to depress the tab to get the connector out? I've disassembled connectors before without much difficulty, but no luck with these.

Can you give a little more specific instructions?
 

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Captain Obvious
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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
1nsx, send me a PM with your email address.
I'll email the Install/Setup manual. It's a large PDF file (about 3.5MB), with lots of pictures.
I haven't found a way to post/attach it to this thread, due to file size limitations.
 

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Hello to all, I call Tiziano and I write from Italy, I possess a CBR929 -2000 I make excuses for mine not perfect English, or seen this post and they are constructed the gear to me indicator of PDFRUTH compliments for the plan, very made and working, already I possess a GPT 3000 but this and better beautifulr, and for scope does not trade them but only private, they are gotten passionate of elettronicao, mounted the gear and I do not succeed to make l' learning in the eprom, lacks the rows programming on the motion, sensor light works, counts marce ok, does not know the way to insert given in the EPROM, someone and available to send rows of installation to me? or it can say the learning way to me, please you help me thanks salutes from Italy Tiziano
HONDA in order always
PS: or written to PDFRUTH but it does not answer, does not want to give disturbance to me he.

MP or E-mail thanks
 
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