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Denmark
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just picked up a set of wheels that came up for sale almost locally. Brand new, never mounted, with brand new front tyre (120/60-17 Michelin Power) at half cost of a new set.

Its PVM 7-Spoke forged aluminium.

Will have to change the front tyre, I prefer BT-016s, but does anyone else use that 120/60 profile? Ive always run 120/70.
 

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Very cool indeed. Now that you have that ugly, heavy stock back wheel that you have absolutely no use for, I'm sure you are willing to part with it for peanuts? :D
 

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Just picked up a set of wheels that came up for sale almost locally. Brand new, never mounted, with brand new front tyre (120/60-17 Michelin Power) at half cost of a new set.

Its PVM 7-Spoke forged aluminium.

Will have to change the front tyre, I prefer BT-016s, but does anyone else use that 120/60 profile? Ive always run 120/70.
Cool wheels, they will make you RC steer much better at high speed and also enable your suspension to follow the road much better - twice the effect :woot:

As for using a 120/60 on the RC I'd realy recommend against it:
First it will substantialy change the bikes geometry (the front will be lower by as much as 12mm), which may create stability problems if you use a 190/55 section in the rear.

2nd it will impair the RC cornering capability as the CP when lent over will be substantialy reduced.
 

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Denmark
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Got the wheels fitted today with my used 120/70-17 BT016 front and a brand new 190/50-17 BT016 rear, Ill take a ride tomorrow, and get some photos too.
 

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Denmark
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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
The wheels fitted.

Would the lighter wheels make the engine-braking less pronounced, or is it just my mind playing tricks on me?

* How come my photos look like crap when they have been uploaded? They are much sharper on my pc.
 

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The wheels fitted.

Would the lighter wheels make the engine-braking less pronounced, or is it just my mind playing tricks on me?

* How come my photos look like crap when they have been uploaded? They are much sharper on my pc.
If anything it will make the engine braking feel more pronounced.
The reason is because the decreased rotational mass of the rear.
Less rotational mass means less effort required by the engine to slow down the rear till it losses traction under braking.
If you want less engine braking you need to do something with the engine or gearing...



BTW - the pictures looks like that because they are not presented in their original resolution. Any resolution conversion means lossing information (i.e. detailing) some converters do this better than others.
 

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Denmark
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
More photos, changed the other, these look better.

About the engine-braking, bike just feels very different when rolling of the throttle now, feels much better. Other than that, the bike is much, much lighter on the steering, going into corners and changing directions is a breeze!
 

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....

About the engine-braking, bike just feels very different when rolling of the throttle now, feels much better. Other than that, the bike is much, much lighter on the steering, going into corners and changing directions is a breeze!
The bike should decelerate easier now, since as you said less rotational mass to counter or less energy to dissipate while decelerating.
Also the wheels now tracks the surface better since the suspension now follows better.
 
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