Installing Gold valves

1743 Views 12 Replies 0 Participants Last post by Guest, Mar 7, 2005

Discussion Starter · Mar 1, 2005

Is this a do-it-yourself project? I am familiar with the adjustable pre-1999 SS/SP forks and have worked on them myself, including replacing the seals, with no problems, but I wondered how hard it is to install Gold valves and springs in Superbike forks. Also, would anyone be willing to copy the pages on fork rebuilding in the Haynes Superbike manual for me? I have a Supersport Haynes manual so I don't need the whole Superbike manual, just the fork pages. (Cheep, yes? That's legal, isn't it

?).
Joe

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Discussion Starter · #2 · Mar 1, 2005

Re: Installing Gold valves (Joe B)

Good thread... I'm getting ready to do the same thing. If anybody has those pages from the Haynes manual, I'd be interested in a copy too (or PDF, whatever). TIA.

I did get some good info from Chris Kelley recently regarding the valving that Racetech recommends. He suggested going 1 or 2 steps softer than what their selection program comes up with.

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Discussion Starter · #3 · Mar 2, 2005

Re: Installing Gold valves (jpuck91)

Real easy lads & VERY effective.
I've actually just redone the valve shims on my bike last weekend.
Yes I have fit the Gold Valves & yes I have used (previously) their shimming chart, though I have found some of their figures to be a little "underdone".
Ok, why did I change the setup that I had?
1. the Gold Valves were put in over two years ago so the oil had to be changed anyway.
2. I've managed to located & befriend a local suspension Guru who was of the opinion that I might be able to get some better performence out of the forks.
3. The Guru wanted to have a play & experiment - I agree'd (what the hell, I wasn't paying

)
4. After pulling the bike down over Christmas I needed to reset all the suspension ...

How does it go?

Yes I do have the workshop manual pages for the SHOWA forks, yes I can copy & .pdf them for some one ...

Just a few notes.
- If you're about my weight 85-95Kg (185 - 210Lb) you might consider going to the c35 shim stacks.
- You should also fill the oil level to 100mm (spring out - leg compressed) from the top.
- Be careful reassembling the rebound damper (at the top of the fork) as the back nut arrangement under the cap is used to limit/set the number of turns on the rebound needle.

Oh ... follow the Haynes manual at your own risk ...

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Discussion Starter · #4 · Mar 2, 2005

Re: Installing Gold valves (DaDukeofOz)

DaDuke, thank you! I would love a PDF (bernfeldatearthlinkdotnet), and thanks for the oil level, I wondered about that too. I weigh 150 lbs and my bike is close to 400 lbs, full of gas, so I know your valving won 't be right for me.

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Discussion Starter · #5 · Mar 2, 2005

Re: Installing Gold valves (Joe B)

Thanks Duke. My email is jnb at treswest dot com. Please send me a copy of the PDF as well.

Joe-
When you get the Gold Valve package it has a little code on the instruction sheet. Go to Racetech's site and run a valving search. You punch in that code and then fill in your information (weight, riding style/experience/etc), and it will spit out a sheet with recommended valving, oil weight/height, compression/rebound settings, spring rate, etc. Not gospel of course, but would be a good starting point probably. See my comment above about Chris K's suggestion to go 1 or 2 softer on the valving stack than what comes up on the search for example.

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Discussion Starter · #6 · Mar 2, 2005

Re: Installing Gold valves (Joe B)

Joe,
shee-it mate. You're supposed to take the weight reduction pills, NOT the bike

Yeah OK c35 might be a little harsh.
Jesse,
I too selected the shiming codes through the web sit as you suggested & found that the stacks were a little too soft. (just a personal experience - make your own mind up)
I've also suggested 100mm for an oil level. This is against the 110mm the Racetech will give you. I say 100mm as I have already done the 110mm level & found that the forks bottom out far too readly. (again - just another personal experience)

I'll endevour to get the manual .pdf'd over the next few days & mail on the weekend.

As an aside <FONT COLOR="blue"><U>THE INDEPENDENT BIKE SUSPENSION FORUM</U> </FONT> is also a good place to get further information & advice on suspension setup.

Enjoy

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Discussion Starter · #7 · Mar 3, 2005

Re: Installing Gold valves (DaDukeofOz)

Cool. The site suggested a 90mm oil level for me (2.5-5wt oil), 8.8ish spring rate, c34 or c35 valving stacks (I put in regular fork stiffness not race stiff), and 8 or 9 clicks of comp/rebound as a starting point. Think I'll start w/ the c34 or c33 stack and work up from there, should be easy enough to tear the forks back down and revalve them if its too soft.

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Discussion Starter · #8 · Mar 6, 2005

Re: Installing Gold valves (jpuck91)

*PING*

You both have mail

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Discussion Starter · #9 · Mar 6, 2005

What springs are you guys using? I set my SS fork up with a .95 and the C-35 stack. I am 220 lbs though. I use 5W oil and the C-35 is quite good. I would not recommend going with 2 steps softer than the Race tech suggestion, you can soften the feel of the fork with the compression adjuster (bottom of the fork) but if the stack is two soft, the brake dive can get excessive, particularly for track or other hard riding. Use the race tech oil level and raze it only if you have bottoming issues. Spend the time to get the sag set right. For the front, you really want 35-40MM don't use a 30mm setting.

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Discussion Starter · #10 · Mar 6, 2005

Duke, dude, I would love to get a coppy of the manual. Perty please!

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Discussion Starter · #11 · Mar 6, 2005

Re: (NC Rick)

Rick,
What's your addy?
I'll post it tonight

Just as a note:
the manual that has been copied (scanned/stolen/without copyright permission

) is for a 2000 model 748. There are some inconsistences between 748/996 etc, but most of the stuff is the same.

Rick,
dunworry ... addy found.
I guess I should read a little further into a profile ...