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...commandeering a beer.
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Not knowing much about this harness, but know that it is neaded I hear to do the battery relocation...maybe I am confused? Either way, what does the Race harness lose or sacrifice, that is on the street/stock harness. Hopeing I could turn up some of you who have made your own, or have kits...thanks in advance

edit: Also, what aobut if I don't want to give up my side cooling...
 

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To do the battery relocation you dont need a racing harness. You have to kinda make a smaller harness for the necessary wiring for the relocation. If i didnt have Mavs (Jeff) help and advice i probably would of never gotten that mod done. Its not too difficult but just have evrything prepared so you wont be running all over the place and then forgetting what your doing. You will need to extend and solder 3-4 wires. Send me a PM if you need any help.
 

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The HRC harness looses all the lights, ignition switch, fuse box, and anything else not needed for a race bike.

You also lose your oil pressure light and low fuel light. I hacked up my OEM harness to make those work again. I kinda thought they were important.

It has nothing to do with the battery relocation mod. For the battery relocation, you need to extend your positive cable and move your neg. cable. Also if you have a PC, you need to extend the neg. wire for that.
 

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...commandeering a beer.
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys. I will be trying to do this soon, when I take the heads in...leak a little hint into the latest skunkworks. ;) :rockon
 

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WSMC #51, CVRA #51
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I made a wire diagram overlay (race over street) a while back and wrote a shot page describing the modification. I have it as a PDF if someone wants to host it.




I would recommend starting front to back and only do a section at a time re-taping what you have completed along the way. Get the good Scotch brand vinyl electrical tape and remove the plastic sleeves. On the kill switch mod, I only used one of the connectors (I think the white one) and just added the wires to it vs. using both the white and red. Remove the wires all the way to the connectors first, then if the wire is not needed remove the pins out of the connectors as one piece that way you can re-install them easily if you make a mistake.

My moded diagram will only allow the bike to start in Neutral. B19 G/W on the ECU is moved to run straight to ground instead of the kickstand switch. B18 G/R runs to one side of the clutch diode. If you want the bike to start in any gear all you need to do is remove B18 G/R from the clutch diode and run it to the ground buss or spice it in to any green ground wire.

In my diagram I have the speed sensor disconnected to the instrument cluster. On the track I don’t want any distractions or relay on how fast I am going to make a corner. The speed sensor is still wired to the ECU, if the speed sensor is completely removed it will set a MIL code.

The Bob Hayashida keyless ignition Mod is included in my diagram. I also removed the headlight kill wire along with the two brake light wires out of my kill switch harness. It's kind of a pain as they glue the end of the plastic sleeve to the wires. I did retain the plastic sleeve here.

When you are done its amazing how clean and minimal the wire harness is. I also took the time to reroute and make the length correct for some of the wires or items I relocated. It all depends on how much time you want to spend on it.

Damon Stewart



 

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Full Spectrum
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That is one of the most well thought out, useful posts I have seen here in a very long time.

Good job sir.
 

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...commandeering a beer.
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
We need sticki's around here. WHo is the moderator. We want stickies.
:D . Great write up. Thank you, I took a copy, and would like one of the PDF too. Email it to me if you get a chance. [email protected].
Thanks again.
 

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I made a wire diagram overlay (race over street) a while back and wrote a shot page describing the modification. I have it as a PDF if someone wants to host it.




I would recommend starting front to back and only do a section at a time re-taping what you have completed along the way. Get the good Scotch brand vinyl electrical tape and remove the plastic sleeves. On the kill switch mod, I only used one of the connectors (I think the white one) and just added the wires to it vs. using both the white and red. Remove the wires all the way to the connectors first, then if the wire is not needed remove the pins out of the connectors as one piece that way you can re-install them easily if you make a mistake.

My moded diagram will only allow the bike to start in Neutral. B19 G/W on the ECU is moved to run straight to ground instead of the kickstand switch. B18 G/R runs to one side of the clutch diode. If you want the bike to start in any gear all you need to do is remove B18 G/R from the clutch diode and run it to the ground buss or spice it in to any green ground wire.

In my diagram I have the speed sensor disconnected to the instrument cluster. On the track I don’t want any distractions or relay on how fast I am going to make a corner. The speed sensor is still wired to the ECU, if the speed sensor is completely removed it will set a MIL code.

The Bob Hayashida keyless ignition Mod is included in my diagram. I also removed the headlight kill wire along with the two brake light wires out of my kill switch harness. It's kind of a pain as they glue the end of the plastic sleeve to the wires. I did retain the plastic sleeve here.

When you are done its amazing how clean and minimal the wire harness is. I also took the time to reroute and make the length correct for some of the wires or items I relocated. It all depends on how much time you want to spend on it.

Damon Stewart



Can i have this pdf by e-mail please?

[email protected]

Thank in advance
 

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Bemused
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Hey Damon, I'm gonna try my hand at this mod, could you shoot me the pdf file you made??

jeantarrou75 (at) gmail (dot) com

Thanks a bunch,
Matt
 

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I used Damon's diagram as well to remove some of my street harness and get rid of the ignition key switch. For a track bike it's pretty straightforward as long as you take your time and make sure the wire you're getting ready to remove isn't connected to anything (lights, signals, fans, etc). I didn't remove the wires all they way back through the main harness, usually just stopped at the closest connector, but there was still a huge pile left over when I was done, and everything is way cleaner.
 

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Banned
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Jeez I hate electronics. I'm scared to death to tackle this but I need to. Anyone wanna come over and do this for me beer and lunch is on me :eek:
 

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Bemused
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So, Damon doesn't have the PDF file anymore. I saved the file off this thread, but the quality is pretty crappy. Anyone have the file and want to send it to me??:notworthy
 

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WSMC #51, CVRA #51
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I have had a few PM's recently asking me for the PDF. I have since rebuilt my home computer several times and migrated from Windows to Linux. I have no idea if I saved it somewhere or where it would be any more. The info above is the same info. Note, I did make one mistake in the diagram overlay. You DO NOT remove the IAT (Intake Air Temp) sensor.
 

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Does anyone know if you can just remove the kickstand wiring or do you have to jumper anything. I have printed the overlay but it is tough to read where there are splices in the harness. Thanks for any help.
 

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Bemused
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Damon sent me the PDF a little while ago and it's better quality than what's pictured here. I'd be more than happy to send it to anybody that wants it......with Damon's permission of course.

Jason
Jason, I'd love one, if you think Damon wouldn't mind...

mrream (at) yahoo (dot) com
 

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Does anyone know if you can just remove the kickstand wiring or do you have to jumper anything. I have printed the overlay but it is tough to read where there are splices in the harness. Thanks for any help.

you'll need to jumper the sidestand connector. Up is closed for the kickstand.
 

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