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Jenias Member
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Ive seen some of the fork service questions and hopefully this will clear up some of the questions I see over and over and some that you have yet to ask. This is more a general idea and its not RC specific but its give you an idea of whats involved. This is from my 2007 R6. The fork is similar to the RC with the exception of how the cartridge is removed.

Late model R6 fork service.

Tools needed.
41 mm wrench or socket. I could only find the socket in 3/4in drive so youll need either a 3/4 inch drive socket wrench or something that converts to it.
27, 24, 19, 17, 12 mm wrenches.
Cone wrench which we had to mill out to 17mm
Allen wrenches
Slotted screwdrivers
Cartridge removal tool
A couple of picks to get at snap rings
Fork seal driver
Cartridge holding tool
Fork holding tool
A bit of welding rod to get a pesky little washer out.


The first thing you want to do before you pull the forks off is measure the ride height so you can put them back to where they were.

The forks off the bike and on the bench


Document your settings.

Slotted screwdrive for rebound


17mm wrench for preload


12mm wrench for high speed compression


4mm allen for low speed compression


Back the preload all the way out.


Loosen the fork cap with the 41mm socket or wrench and then slide the upper tube down.


Place the forks in a spring compressor and remove the cap with a 17mm wrench and 19mm wrench.



Remove the preload spacer and spring and drain the oil.


Use the cartridge removal tool to remove the cartridge. If it doesnt seat into the groves then youll need the bent welding rod to fish out that pesky wash that the spring sits on. Then put the cartridge tool back in and remove the cartridge.


This is what you should end up with.


If you only get 1/2 of whats in the above photo youll need to remove the fork bottom from the lower leg to get the rest of the cartridge out.

Next remove the compression valving with the 24mm wrench.


Remove the dust wiper from the upper tube and then the snap ring that holds the fork seal in.


Slide the tube apart. The newer models have the bushings set into the upper tube but earlier models have them on the lower tube. You will have to do a little slide hammer action to separate the tubes.

Remove the fork seal and washer.


On earlier models the seal will be on the lower tube with the bushings.

With the cartridge holding tool, hold the cartridge and remove the bottom out cone with an 17mm wrench and the cone wrench.


This is what you will end up with.


Clean and dry everything.


Inspect the valving to make sure there is no debris in the shim stack.


Reassemble the cartridge.

Put the compression valving back in the lower leg.

Get new seals and grease them.


Slide the dust wiper, fork seal, and washer over the lower tube.


Grease the inside of the lower section of the upper tube where the fork seal goes and then drive the fork seal with the fork seal driver.


On earlier models youll have to drive in the bushing before doing this.

Ive chosen to not to reinstall the hydrolic portion of the bottom out cone. This is the lower outer part of it. I did put the rest of it back.

Reinstall the cartridge.


Pour in oil, bleed the cartridge with the cartridge bleeding tool and then set the level.


Once the level is set put the pesky little washer, spring and spacer back in.

Before you replace the fork cap you will need to reset the rebound adjuster. Each model is different but typically four full turns in from full soft is sufficient.

Now back at the spring compressor replace the fork cap.


Slide the upper tube and screw down the cap. You dont need a lot of torque. Just a hair more then finger tight is good.



Now return your clickers and preload back to their settings and replace the forks on the bike.
 

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Great Write Up!!!

I wished you would do one with the RC forks. So many questions I have about shim stack, re-valve questions,which metal polish for the fork tube, top out spring, and do we have that pesky washer at the bottom of the spring area.

I've just done a dusk/oil seals for my buddies RC and we had a huge time with the holding the damper body(?) to tighten the bolt at the bottom of the fork leg.

Again..great write up.
 

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The RC51 fork is similar. But you won't be able to remove the damper shaft from the cartridge body, because the bottom out "oil-lock" is swaged onto the damper tube. So you won't be able to get to the rebound cartridge, or top-out spring without drilling out the dimples at the top of the cartridge body and unscrewing the top cap. It is loctited in. You'll need a split block with an ID that matches the OD of the damper body tube and a special tool (I made one) to unscrew the top-cap on the damper. IF you don't do it right, you'll screw it up!!

To get the damper cartridge out of the fork, use an impact wrench to remove the bottom screw/plug.
 

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So with this tool , you were able to take the forks completely down to the rebound valves/shims and top out spring?? No need to drill out anything I assumed?
 

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Good question on the top out spring question. I didn't tear down that far. I was just replacing bushings and seals. Sorry I wish I could remember how it all went together.
 

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So with this tool , you were able to take the forks completely down to the rebound valves/shims and top out spring?? No need to drill out anything I assumed?
The tool is to remove and install the damper cartridge. Better to have one than not. The parts are aluminum and if you are ham-fisted with the impact wrench, you'll overtighten it, when you install it. If you don't have a way to hold damper cartridge, it will spin, so you can't remove the bottom retainer plug. Gentle use of an impact wrench makes it easy.

To get the damper cartridge apart, you need to drill out the dimples and unscrew the top cap. You'll need the tools and a heat gun to do it. It's not for everyone, but you were looking for advice.

Also, I would suggest turning the OD of the tool down so it fits inside the top ring, rather than modifying the ring.
 

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I can take out the damper rod/cartridge because I have the tool to hold the cartridge.

What I have not done yet is mess with the shim stack and replace the valves.

That is the information I so hungered for.
 

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Reviving an old thread

I can take out the damper rod/cartridge because I have the tool to hold the cartridge.

What I have not done yet is mess with the shim stack and replace the valves.

That is the information I so hungered for.
So, I will be attempting to replace the top out spring shortly. I've heard and read different ways to replace the springs. I'm suprised no one has done a DIY on this yet (specific to our forks). I hope to video my progress, if not take detailed pics.

Onto my question. In speaking with a Race Tech tech, he advised that you do not have to drill anything (i.e., cartridge dimples). He said the rod should fall out and if you look inside the cartridge you will see the top out spring. From there, he mentioned getting a dull screwdriver, place it on a visible coil and push it through the bottom. Can anyone validate this? Or, was I missinformed?
 

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The RC51 fork is similar. But you won't be able to remove the damper shaft from the cartridge body, because the bottom out "oil-lock" is swaged onto the damper tube. So you won't be able to get to the rebound cartridge, or top-out spring without drilling out the dimples at the top of the cartridge body and unscrewing the top cap. It is loctited in. You'll need a split block with an ID that matches the OD of the damper body tube and a special tool (I made one) to unscrew the top-cap on the damper. IF you don't do it right, you'll screw it up!!

To get the damper cartridge out of the fork, use an impact wrench to remove the bottom screw/plug.
So, I will be attempting to replace the top out spring shortly. I've heard and read different ways to replace the springs. I'm suprised no one has done a DIY on this yet (specific to our forks). I hope to video my progress, if not take detailed pics.

Onto my question. In speaking with a Race Tech tech, he advised that you do not have to drill anything (i.e., cartridge dimples). He said the rod should fall out and if you look inside the cartridge you will see the top out spring. From there, he mentioned getting a dull screwdriver, place it on a visible coil and push it through the bottom. Can anyone validate this? Or, was I missinformed?
I have not rebuilt a SP2 but I am guessing the cartridge is desinged the same as the SP1. On my SP1 I had to drill the dimples and using a heat gun as stated by RCVTR.

My 92 CR250 was setup in the same way but RT had a removable bottom-out collar which allows me to disassemble the cartridge without drilling. I have wondered if it will work on the RC cartridge.

 
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