I would worry about converting the H1 highbeam unit on a superbike to HIDs even if you reroute the system to come on as a lowbeam. The reason I say this is because the highbeams are probably focused to reflect light in all directions, thus lighting up the road and all signs around. Granted, you might want everybody to see you so that they won't hit you; however, you'll get highbeamed much more often.
If you would like to get HIDs on your bike for cheap, go with a rebased H3 hid unit and pop it into your projector. As long as whoever did the rebasing did a fairly good job and kept the focal point at the heart of the stock filament, most of the light will be dispersed correctly. However, make sure the bulb fits and is of proper length to not hit the rear of the projector's lens.
To waive this entire problem, I would say just ditch the old projector lens, retrofit in some other type of projector lens with some D2S bulbs into your current light housings, and splice in the HID system to your stock harness.
I have the Philips HID kit in my car. The bulbs (Philips 6000k Ultinon Stage-II) are of really good quality and color and the ballasts (Philips LVQ-212) are of good build and work very well. The only problem with this unit is that the ballasts are fairly large. On a motorcycle, I would consider looking into small ballasts such as those made by Hella or Panasonic. The Hella ballast will be cheaper than the Panasonic but the Panasonic if of better quality. Both are ideally small for bikes.
And the HID unit may put less wattage strain on your system but upon startup it needs to build voltage for about the first 24 seconds of warming up in order for the bulb to stay ignited properly. Random fact, sorry. For more discussion and info about HIDs, check out http://www.hidforums.com
although they got hacked a couple weeks ago and lost a little of their database.