[RIRC51]

So I'm looking for suggestions on turning quicker at the track. The tight chicane before the front straight at Loudon is really frustrating me...

Here's how my piggy sits now,
Kyle link
Penske 6 clicker rear
Computrack revalved front forks
Weighed the bike at the last track day, 430lbs wet
Running Michelin CT2's, 28psi in the rear, 30psi in the front

I probably could work on my body positioning, specifically getting off the bike a little more, And I'm going to lower the clip-ons a little more, but any other advice?

TIA

 

[wingnutt]

Raise the forks in the triples 2mm at a time:twocents

 

[TLRSKUNK]

Hey Tom I just got my 05 front end back on what line should I set it at? I have a kyle link in the rear as well. Right now I have it set at the first line... should I drop to the second line?

 

[mighty max]

raised the rear...& Use Michelin Power 1..Front V & rear 190/55:notworthy

 

[Gipper]

2 things:

1) Since you already had Computrak revalve the forks, just have him do the chassis optimization, too. He did it to mine, and you would have to ride it to believe it. As a matter of fact, if you come by I will let you ride it. We can probably take some measurements and get your bike set up similarly.

2) Aftermarket clip-ons give you more leverage and help it turn quicker.

Eric

 

[wingnutt]

Hey Tom I just got my 05 front end back on what line should I set it at? I have a kyle link in the rear as well. Right now I have it set at the first line... should I drop to the second line?

Yep, two lines showing or 10 mm above the triple always a good starting point.:twocents

 

[Ika-kun]

Yep, two lines showing or 10 mm above the triple always a good starting point.:twocents

With a 190/55, Ohlins rear, and Kyle/Mori link - Does 2 lines on the front forks make the bike nervous? How "safe" is it without a steering damper?

 

[wingnutt]

With a 190/55, Ohlins rear, and Kyle/Mori link - Does 2 lines on the front forks make the bike nervous? How "safe" is it without a steering damper?

190/55 Power one with the rear ride heigth adjusted all the way down and two lines showing you should use a damper it is an agressive (quick) set-up:twocents

http://www.speedzilla.com/forums/honda-sport-twins-classifieds/59297-350-00-a.html

You can beat-up the price a bit.

 

[MYZ1K]

Do you have a T1 airbox or relocated the battery? Those will take ALOT of weight from up high and help it flick easier. Just a couple more ideas.

 

[union]

So I'm looking for suggestions on turning quicker at the track. The tight chicane before the front straight at Loudon is really frustrating me...

Here's how my piggy sits now,
Kyle link
Penske 6 clicker rear
Computrack revalved front forks
Weighed the bike at the last track day, 430lbs wet
Running Michelin CT2's, 28psi in the rear, 30psi in the front

I probably could work on my body positioning, specifically getting off the bike a little more, And I'm going to lower the clip-ons a little more, but any other advice?

TIA

2 things:

1) Since you already had Computrak revalve the forks, just have him do the chassis optimization, too. He did it to mine, and you would have to ride it to believe it. As a matter of fact, if you come by I will let you ride it. We can probably take some measurements and get your bike set up similarly.

2) Aftermarket clip-ons give you more leverage and help it turn quicker.

Eric

Gives us a call and bring it in When I had my RC51 we made some huge changes to the geometry. Maybe a little too much but the bike was a lot quicker.

Also when turning through the 11-12 complex dont forget to give the bike a squirt of gas when going from left to right and then back to left to help it transition faster. We are racing this weekend. Come on up and watch some of the faster guys get through there. It usually helps me to see what they are doing.

 

[vanessa]

how much do you weigh? not being personal,just curious.

 

[drsus]

roll off the throttle through the whole chicane, resist temptation to gas it between flicks and push harder on the inside bar

 

[johnyisthedevil]

take the mohawk off of your helmet it makes your COG to high. :woot:


check the rider before making changes to the bike. make sure to support your body weight with your legs and core. your ass should only be grazing the seat. I like to really throw my weight around an exaggerated amount in chicanes. proper throttle application really helps too. the best way I have found to figure this out is to find a long straight deserted stretch of road with a clear passing zone or a very large empty parking lot and some cones. do some slalom runs using the cones or dashed lines as a guide and gradually pick up the speed. I promise it's all technique. when I rode with the Yamaha school guys they actually said they were impressed with the way I tossed my piggy around especially in the transitions. the one guy; Ken, said he used to race an RC so he knew that it was a heavy bike and kinda hard to flick side to side. most people here would consider my bike to be slow turning. I run a 190 55, the rear has a 2mm shim and my forks are at the first line, just like stock. I've never com across any chicane or set of turns where I wasn't able to get it flicked or felt that it needed to turn quicker. nor have I ever felt the need for a damper. it's rock solid through the turns. granted I'm no Elena Myers, but I'm pretty quick for a track day guy.optimize your setting for the whole track not just one turn.seriously though first I would check your line. watch the faster guys real close to see how they do it. pay special attention and listen carefully to their throttle inputs and when, where and how the move their body.

 

[RIRC51]

Thanks for the replies everyone!

And first of all, that's my GoPro camera, not a mohawk I rocked a real one of those in the 80's, don't need to do it again... Wait, actually I couldn't if I wanted

This is actually a pic entering the section I'm having trouble with.
As far as body position, I am definitely getting my ass off the seat, supporting almost all my weight on the balls of my feet, Loudon is so damn bumpy you HAVE TO. That being said, I'm still working on smooth, quick, good transitions through that quick left/right/left section. I realize good technique will go a long way towards improving my times.

I've heard the V front helps a lot, when I shred these tires I'll probably go with those. What's the easiest way to raise the rear end? Shims?

And the T1 airbox or snorkel, I'd love to do that, but funds are tight... I meant to relocate the battery when I did the wiring harness mod, I was running out of time and had to button her up quick to be ready for my first track day... I'll probably try and do that this winter

I'm weighing in at just over 200lbs right now, when I'm in shape I'm usually heavier though, haven't been to the gym for a while since the baby was born.

Union, where can I come see you? I'm in RI, so getting up to the track usually only happens for track days, you going to be there for the BostonMoto weekend on the 14th and 15th?

I'm hearing two suggestions for throttle input thru the turns there, I guess the best way for me to describe how I'm doing it is a neutral amount of throttle till the apex of 12, rolling on quickly from there, pushing the bike to the wall.

Gipper, what's the chassis "optimization"? And I've got aftermarket clip-ons, levers, rearsets, etc...

 

[Gipper]

Computrack optimizes the rake, trail, swingarm angle, etc. It works. I'm in Lakeville, about 30 minutes from PVD - PM me if you want to try it out.

Union works at Computrack, and their shop is just North of RI in Bellingham, MA, so going straight to the shop would be very easy for you.

Eric

 

[mighty max]

I've heard the V front helps a lot, when I shred these tires I'll probably go with those. What's the easiest way to raise the rear end? Shims?

True, Michelin V help a lot...to get more lean angle..used 190/55...

 

[union]

Computrack optimizes the rake, trail, swingarm angle, etc. It works. I'm in Lakeville, about 30 minutes from PVD - PM me if you want to try it out.

Union works at Computrack, and their shop is just North of RI in Bellingham, MA, so going straight to the shop would be very easy for you.

Eric

That pretty much says it. Youll get the best response by calling and talking to Peter. We are racing this weekend so either come to the track and visit or youll have to wait a few days.

True, Michelin V help a lot...to get more lean angle..used 190/55...

IMO the V is much better then the A front. When I made the change from Dunlops to Michelins I was told the A profile is similar to the Dunlop Ntec in shape. That might be the case but that is where it ends. I crashed that tire 3 times my first weekend on them. I made the switch to the V profile and it was light years better. I dont feel like Im saving a crash every turn.

 

[mighty max]

U guys racing on the RC?...:clapper

 

[union]

U guys racing on the RC?...:clapper

No. When I first started working for Peter I had a RC but since then Ive moved to a R6.

 

[johnyisthedevil]

I think this is the turn you are talking about in the beginning of this vid. if not it's still a good clip to watch, because it has quick transitions. note how he sets up body position long before entering the turns, also note the position of his arms. looks to me like you might be riding a bit twisted, ie more ass off the seat less upper body. try to put your chin on the ground. you wont be able to do it, but try. your head should be where the mirror would normally be. your outside arm should be resting on the tank and almost straight, inside arm bent and relaxed. point that elbow where you wanna go.

in short more upper body off less ass off. slow in/fast out, always be setting up for the exit.
YouTube - 6/8ths Lap Around Loudon