[rocky1536]

I've checked the battery and it is fine (odyssey).

The bike has been sitting for about 4-6 weeks so I don't think gas is the issue. The bike cranks kind of slow and weird. It doesn't sound like it used to. Even with a full battery, it doesn't crank near as fast as I remember it...

Could this be a bad relay? Starter? I need HELP!!!!!!

BTW it is an '03 with PC3r.

 

[scootergmc]

Get another battery.

It's usually the battery, even when you think it's not the battery.

 

[rocky1536]

Get another battery.

It's usually the battery, even when you think it's not the battery.

I will give it a shot.

If it is indeed the battery I'm going to be contacting odyssey and be pretty pissed. I have only had this battery for a year and bought it because it was suposed to be the best.

The reason I don't think its the battery- both headlights (HID) come on without fail...it takes some juice to startup an HID even if they pull less than halogen once ignited.

Any other ideas?

 

[johnyisthedevil]

The reason I don't think its the battery- both headlights (HID) come on without fail...it takes some juice to startup an HID even if they pull less than halogen once ignited.

Any other ideas?

that may be the case, but it takes a lot more to crank those two big pistons than it does to turn on a couple of lights. charge it up and see what happens.

 

[3stripes]

Put a jumper battery/cable to it..just don't start the vehicle.

I think it's the battery or bad connection as well. Check your battery connection...mine were loose again recently.

 

[wibbly]

keep in mind that a battery can read over 12 volts unloaded but dip substantially when loaded. if you're unsure just clamp a meter on the battery and start cranking, if the voltage drops significantly you know your problem...

 

[Doughnut Spaghetti]

+1 on the battery. I've had that happen to me so many times I can't count.

 

[RCchris]

Any update on this? Was it the battery? I am just going through the same thing. Cranks over slow, and cuts out all together and also my trip meter resets to 0. Had my battery tested at a shop, and they said they load tested it a couple times, and it was fine. So I thought it may have been a bad connection, made sure they were tight, and put the battery back in, and it started fine. Had it out tonight, and after stopping a few times and restarting it, it was cranking slower each time, until after about the 5th stop, it was cutting out again while starting again. The fuel pump primes, and the lights and everything work, although I did notice while riding when I had my signal lights on, I could see my tach and speedo display go dim every time my signal flashed. So, I think it might be the battery anyway, but what do you guys think? Could it be the starter? The bike has no power commander or alarm or anything that could be draining it. Bad stator? I am going to hook it up to car battery tomorrow to see if it starts.

 

[Plwtwo]

RCchris= Its your battery. If your lights are dimming when the blinker is on, its defiantly ur battery, or ur connections, check the ground connections on the frame and engine! Then go buy a new battery.

Rocky- if you let ur bike sit 4-6 weeks without a battery tender on it, then its not the battery's fault. Motorcycle batteries are crap these days..they don't use all the good lead in them anymore, so they don't store as well as they should.. Ive got a Speedcell in my RC, it lasted 4 months and cranked the bike, my CBR with a NEW YUSA sitting next to it can't go 2 weeks without a trickle charger.

 

[StriderF4i]

keep in mind that a battery can read over 12 volts unloaded but dip substantially when loaded. if you're unsure just clamp a meter on the battery and start cranking, if the voltage drops significantly you know your problem...

The truth. This man speaks it...

 

[RCchris]

RCchris= Its your battery. If your lights are dimming when the blinker is on, its defiantly ur battery, or ur connections, check the ground connections on the frame and engine! Then go buy a new battery.:

I am going to try to pick a new battery up tomorrow. The shop only has parts unlimited one in stock, but it looks identical to the yuasa one I have.
I have searched a lot of threads of similar problems on here, and couldn't find one with a conclusion, good or bad. I will be sure to post if this is the problem, or not the problem. Thanks.

 

[RCchris]

New battery in today, she fired right up. Raining here now, hopefully get out for a good ride tomorrow to give it a test.

 

[RCchris]

Well the new battery died today. It started up fine the last few rides, and today was no different. I left home, and was gone for an hour or so, and got stuck in construction, so I shut the bike off a few times while I was stopped. After a few times doing this, she would not restart. Had to bump start her to get home. So the battery obviously isn't charging as I am riding, so does this mean my stator is probably toast? Would a bad rectifier cause this? I am not electrically inclined at all, and I don't have any testing equipment to test any of these things, but I would like some insight, before I take it into a stealership.

 

[AKDMA]

Could it have anything to do with your HID conversion?

 

[bigbach03]

Not enough cold cranking amps in the battery. Junk it and get another one.

 

[AKDMA]

He posted above that he's since replaced the battery and the new one is doing the same thing after working for a brief period.

 

[RCchris]

Could it have anything to do with your HID conversion?

No HID conversion here, you must have read that on someone else's post. I kind of hijacked this thread, as it didn't really have a conclusion. The bike is pretty much stock, there is no power commander or any other electrical modifications on the bike. So it seems it obviously isn't holding a charge while I am riding, which points me to the stator, but I don't know if rectifier would cause this either, as I said I am electrically challenged! Also, I noticed my gas light started flicking on and off, kind of fast, and there is plenty of gas in the tank. I think it was doing this because the battery was really dead by the time I got home. It wouldn't even turn over after I shut it off and tried to restart it.

 

[AKDMA]

Ahh, yeah I thought you were the OP.

 

[RCchris]

So my stator was bad. Took it into a shop, and they tested it, and said the bike was running just on the battery power alone. I think they said the stator was only putting out 11 v, and when they put the new one on, it was right back up to where it should be. I ended up getting an after market one for like $150, and to have it over nighted cost like 75. I didn't want to wait forever with the postal strike going on here. I think the stock one was priced around $430! So it was still a deal. The only problem the shop had with the aftermarket one, was the wires were too short to reach the connector, so they had to fix that. So I hope this ends this little problem. I think almost 87,000km is pretty good for the first thing ever to fail on this bike, I still love it like the first day I got it new back in 2000.

 

[ZeroGara]

Stator voltage is not 11Vdc

I believe the SP-1 and SP-2 use different part numbers as the one has a longer connection than the other.
If they told you the stator puts out 11V either they lied or they counted on ignorance. The stator puts out AC that feeds into the rectifier/regulator which puts out DC. The AC voltage is much higher, I believe. The only real way to measure a stator is by measuring the resistance along the phases.
If you were to find a good reliable shop that rewinds stators you may end up with a much superior product than the stock part.