[b.miller123]

Who has done their fork seals themselves? I would send them to Dan Kyle to get set up along with with my (new to me) Ohlins shock, but time and funds aren't allowing it. I have a trackday next weekend and need to get this done asap. Taking them to the local shop is possible, but I have little faith in someone else's ability to not screw up my forks.

I am fairly mechanically inclined. I have more confidence in myself than the local shops. After reading through the manual (which I've heard doesn't help at all???) and watching videos on YouTube, it doesn't seem that hard. If anyone has done it and has tips, or a step-by-step, that would be great.

What tools are required for our forks? The caps just use a 32mm it looks like, which I have. Do we need a damper rod holder? I've seen that the book uses a 17mm wrench and some say to shave it down. And of course the long Allen for the lower and the seal bullet and driver. What sizes do we need for the bullet and driver?

Anything else I am missing?

If there is anyone local that has these tools and would be willing to let me borrow them, I would be more than willing to compensate them. I would also be willing to compensate anyone the is able to ship them out to me. Obviously I am going to look into getting the driver and bullet locally, but it doesn't seem like something that the local shops will have.

I am seriously considering just pushing my trackday back a few weeks or so.

 

[EsotericRC51]

The hardest part was compressing the springs and getting the cap back on. Actually it was impossible with me and my friend putting both of our weight on it. We had to go to another friends place and he had a vice made for working on forks.

 

[2theMax]

I did mine not to long ago....it was a learning experience. Youtube and the manual helped me get through it alright.

You'll need a 43mm fork seal driver, and I'd suggest get the damper rod holder. My local honda dealer had the tools and they let me barrow them.

The only problem I ran into was the center bolt (the bolt on the bottom of fork leg). The left center bolt didn't seem like it wanted to tighten all the way.

Check out a thread I started "Fork Center Bolt"

You'll need 2 qts of fork oil, your lacking like 2 oz if you just get 1 qt.

Some also recommend you replace the teflon coated bushings too, I didn't but I wish I did because now I'll have to take everything back apart to change those out...Do it Nice or Do it Twice

Good luck

 

[b.miller123]

Well the dealer wants $200 plus parts. Definitely doing this myself.

So a list of things I need:

$8: 43mm bullet
$42 43mm seal driver

$35: Damper rod holder tool (I will probably get the motion pro one, anyone know 100% for sure if this will work on our forks?)

$23: I'll probably get their fork oil level tool also.

Bushings, slider $6 (x2), and guide $9 (x2)
Seal set $20 (x2)
O-rings: $15
Fork oil: $?

So that's $193 after parts. I can save $65 if I don't get the oil level tool and make my own seal driver.

Looking at the online oem parts sellers, I can't seem to find the o rings for the preload adjusters? or any of the parts for the predload adjusters. Did you guys bother to replace these?

What kind of solvent would you guys suggest for cleaning everything before reassembly? Oh, and recommended oil weight?

 

[Waldo]

You do not need the bullet (I have a set but prefer to use a freezer zip lock with the zipper cut off).

I would also look into a spring compressing too. I traxxion has a set of tools fairly cheap.

Cartridge Fork Tool Kit

There are other companies out ther who sell sets line this.

Ya the cost up front may be as much as having a shop do it but in a year from now you will be able to do it for the cost of parts.

 

[b.miller123]

I was meaning to call you but I've been running errands all day and playing mr. Mom

You do not need the bullet (I have a set but prefer to use a freezer zip lock with the zipper cut off).

I would also look into a spring compressing too. I traxxion has a set of tools fairly cheap.

Cartridge Fork Tool Kit

There are other companies out ther who sell sets line this.

Ya the cost up front may be as much as having a shop do it but in a year from now you will be able to do it for the cost of parts.

Cool, thanks for the info, I already ordered a few things, and all the parts. I I think a long Allen key and something to hold the spring are all that I have left to pick up. Hopefully if I can't reschedule my trackday, I'll get everything in time. Parts should be here Friday and hopefully the tools will be here by then too.

 

[fishhead]

Hey mate. Good luck and here's a few things to consider:

http://www.speedzilla.com/forums/rc51-technical-discussion/61071-fork-center-bolt.html#post616363

http://www.speedzilla.com/forums/rc51-technical-discussion/57968-fork-service-tip-sp2.html

http://www.speedzilla.com/forums/rc...potential-fork-disassembly-disaster-help.html

One cool tool that I wish I got was the for spring compressor tool. If you're handy, you can make a rig out of some all-thread, plywood, wing nuts and other odds and ends. But, I wish I saw Traxxions tools bedore I went all out at Motion Pro...

The Bullit, doesn't fully fit. I aggree it's one that not absolutely necessary. The driver, absolutley. The holder, I'd say yes, also.

 

[b.miller123]

Hey mate. Good luck and here's a few things to consider:

http://www.speedzilla.com/forums/rc51-technical-discussion/61071-fork-center-bolt.html#post616363

http://www.speedzilla.com/forums/rc51-technical-discussion/57968-fork-service-tip-sp2.html

http://www.speedzilla.com/forums/rc...potential-fork-disassembly-disaster-help.html

One cool tool that I wish I got was the for spring compressor tool. If you're handy, you can make a rig out of some all-thread, plywood, wing nuts and other odds and ends. But, I wish I saw Traxxions tools bedore I went all out at Motion Pro...

The Bullit, doesn't fully fit. I aggree it's one that not absolutely necessary. The driver, absolutley. The holder, I'd say yes, also.

Thanks for the tips man! I was just looking through my hard copy and my pdf manuals, and they both only contain the SP1 instructions. :banghead Any tips on the proper procedure for taking the prelaod adjuster off without mangling it like the other guy did?

 

[fishhead]

If my memory serves me correctly, the pre-load knob doesn't need to be removed to do the work. I wish I took pictures so I could remember :banghead

 

[b.miller123]

If my memory serves me correctly, the pre-load knob doesn't need to be removed to do the work. I wish I took pictures so I could remember :banghead

Thank you for trying! I guess I will just have to take my time and try not to mangle anything. It looks like the 954 and the 04 cbr 1000 have the same preload adjuster set up as our bikes. I am downloading the manuals for those right now.

 

[b.miller123]

Okay, so the 954 and 1000rr have the same preload adjuster and fork caps as the RC. Here are the pages from the 2004 1000rr manual. Anyone see any reason to not follow these steps:

 

[fishhead]

Looks like you're well on your way now. Learn from my bonehead mistakes and all will be well! One diff on the top end (compared the CBR setup) that I can remember is the joint collar. The RC doesn't have one.
Also, I think once the cap is unscrewed you can just slide the whole fork cap and needle assembly off the fork body. You will push the spring collar down and release the lock nut and unscrew the whole cap assembly from the damper rod (the needle will come off/out with the fork cap).

I think you'll need an extra pair of strong hands and a 12mm or 14mm open end wrench (2 needed of the same size - sorry I can't remember which) and the spring compressor tool. The tool fits into the holes on the spring collar. Once pushed down you'll have access to the lock nut and bottom of the cap assembly. It's round, but has flattened sides to accept the open end wrench (one on the lock nut, the other on the "damper rod case". On that page 14-23 it's labled a damper rod case. Slightly diff on the RC. You won't have to mess with many of those O-rings pictured, because it's that step pictured at the top of page 14-23 that does not happen. Your work will all happen beneath the cap and behind that spring collar.

BTW: when you re-assemble, make sure the spring collar is seated all the way up into the cap. It tries to go a tad off center and appear properly seated in there, when in fact it isn't. Best of luck, again!