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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
just went to see whats involved in fitting a flush undertray i have there good while
and noticed that i basically have to cut away half the original undertray and do away with the only support bolts that support the whole lot including the battery.
so what do i do to support the battery????
 

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just went to see whats involved in fitting a flush undertray i have there good while
and noticed that i basically have to cut away half the original undertray and do away with the only support bolts that support the whole lot including the battery.
so what do i do to support the battery????
Is the undertray a Hotbodies unit?
If so, completely disregard their instructions.
On my SP2, I trimmed the rear fender following the inner subframe rails to near the battery box similar to this:


This way the rear fender is fully supported and leaves the relay mounts intact.
I then used some plastic scrap to fasten additional mount tabs for the undertray.


Then the undertray can be mounted and secured to the fender using whatever fasteners you desire.
I used some aluminum screws and nylocks, but on afterthought, I could have used plastic body clips or Dzus fasteners.
 

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That is how my stock fender is cut. Leaves the stock mounting points at the rear. You can put longer screws in those mount points and then use a nut on the end of the bolt that will stuck through the rivnut in the subframe. This allows you to have some brackets like subsailor has. This is how my brakelight is attached. Be aware that without any secondary mounts, the undertail will just fall as soon as you pull the two screws out. Mine that is pictured below requires that I pull the undertail off any time I want to pull the tail section off. Kind of a bitch, but it's only two dzus fasteners and the connectors for the signals. I've since moved the license plate back and cut a hole for the cbr taillight so it's not hidden anymore, makes it more of a bitch to take off.

For the "flush" part you really have to hack the shit out of the stock fender. There are all sorts of little things sticking down. To make it easier, use a sharp razor blade with a sturdy handle like a box cutter. Works 10x better, faster and easier than a dremel. A hacksaw can be used to make the large starting cuts and then go to a razor blade for a nice finish.

Oh, and dzus fasteners work well for the stock mounting points:



 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks for the detailed replys lads
but my subframe is differant my undertail needs to run flush with bottom rail of subframe so looks like the mounting points have to go






 

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The bottom rail is thick enough to drill/tap you may want to go that route and get a oem spare sub-frame for resale concerns.
 

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I want to change the bolts on the lip of the tail. Had a hard time finding replacement ones in black. The original owner did this work. He didn't take into account the geometry of the swingarm as the tire comes up and strikes the license plate. I'm trying it one last time then I'm relocating the plate holder more towards the tail. Even 1/2" would be better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I want to change the bolts on the lip of the tail. Had a hard time finding replacement ones in black. The original owner did this work. He didn't take into account the geometry of the swingarm as the tire comes up and strikes the license plate. I'm trying it one last time then I'm relocating the plate holder more towards the tail. Even 1/2" would be better.



couple of dzus fastners would look even better on the lip
 
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