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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My bike from Arkansas arrived a few days ago (I am in Colorado).
The guy rolled it off the truck, I hit the choke and key and she fired right up (has not run in approx 30 days when it was with shipper), so I thought yay!

The FI light however stayed on solid. This was not the case the day it went on the truck (seller sent me a video as the truck was there).
I am reading that it appears I may have a code 10 (baro sensor or connections), are these known for just coming loose? or is there a chance the shipper could have pulled it locking the bike in?
The bike runs fine and has plenty of power, doesnt cut out or die (maybe once if cold), and starts every time. It's just the FI light comes on as it primes, then goes off. If I dont start the bike, it will flash a single long flash over and over. If I start the bike it will come on solid. I have put ~50 miles on it without a hiccup, but I would really love to know what happened between Arkansas and Colorado.
Am I on the right track?
02 SP2
Full Akra titanium (obvious pair remove)
snorkel mod (not removed)
Power Commander 3usb

EDIT: I rode this ~11 miles to and 11 miles from work today, it starts fine, it idles fine, and has no bog or hesitation, nor does it just die like others. It runs very well, it's just the light staying on that bugs the hell out of me.
Do I need to re-tune a Power Commander to accomidate for elevation, or should it adapt and I have another demon?
I saw the lower cross member for the upper cowl broken right in the area of the baro wiring. I am going to pull the plastics today and check some connections and wiring. I saw in teh manual that the bike will still run fine with it flashing (and it does), just annoying. I pulled the power commander tune and it is running the base Akra 2:2 full with flapper mod (PC map ending in 10), with the exception of 0% throttle in the mid RPM range, I am richer by 4 or so, but again only in teh 0% range. Thinking that was done to control decelleration backfire?

Update: disconnected battery, removed tail and upper front cowl and disconnected and reconnected every connection I could find. Nothing looked corroded. Verified Baro sensor worirng was in tact and nothing appeared to be rubbing anywhere. Cleared codes when I put it back together and it fired up with the same baro code (constant 10 flash until started), then FI light is on solid, died twice on me, but fired back up right away.
Should I try a zero map on there and take away the richness from the PCIII? I am still up in the air as to what happened during transport to cause this other than the baro physically taking a crap while sitting still.... :confused::confused::confused:
 

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Si vis pacem, para bellum
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You might try removing the PC3 and then go through the startup process. Sometimes they can cause problems, and they are easy to eliminate as the possible culprit.

Next you might try swapping the baro sensor out with a known good one. Maybe you have a friend close to you or one of the members here might send one to you with a refundable Paypal deposit. I don't have a spare, otherwise I'd offer to myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I would fully disconnect it to be sure.
I guess my question really comes down to this, if wiring is in tact, clean and tight, is it more common to lose a baro or a PC? The previous owner seriously shot a video of it as it was going on the truck and shot the cluster to get mileage. The only thing this bike did was go on a truck working with no FI light, elevate 5000ish feet and roll off the truck with a light. If the baro is like any other MAP, there is probably a little crystal in there that went, but....

My other question I guess would be if I disconnect the PC, will the bike want to still run OK with full exhaust (no pair)? I have heard some in CO having starting issues after putting in aftermarket air filters, so unsure here

Reading a lot about how tricky it is to lift the tank on a 51 and get everything just so when putting it back down. Would love to not have to lift it if I dont have to ;)

Sorry for the n00b stance, PCs are a new thing to me (coming from the carb world)
 

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Si vis pacem, para bellum
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I can think of several PCs going bad in my experience, but not a single baro sensor that I can remember. I'm not saying its impossible, I've just not seen it happen in my experience.

Troubleshoot one thing at a time. Pull the PC, and if it doesn't fix the problem, plug it back up and swap out the baro sensor with a known good one. Then move on to less obvious but possible causes.
 

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I had this happen to me when I was hooking up a new Speedohealer. It's the connection just right of the seat, there are two leads. If you leave it disconnected you have no speedometer (which was fun once).
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I had this happen to me when I was hooking up a new Speedohealer. It's the connection just right of the seat, there are two leads. If you leave it disconnected you have no speedometer (which was fun once).
I still have speedo though. Basically the bike was fine, got latched down on a truck and came here. When it arrived it had the light. Also, the black connection piece of the cowl under the left headlight was cracked which is right around the wire area, however when I pulled the cowl it all appeard to be in tact.

I am going to get the multimeter out tonight and trace the wires as the service manual says and see what that gets me.

I can reset the ECU and immediately when I turn the key on (after a battery disconnect even), it starts the error again, so I am again guessing it does a boot check to see if the sensors are there and this one is either bad or has a bad connection. It does not have to run to trip the code on a fresh ECU.

I'll def. update after the test tonight. Thanks for the help on this everyone!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
did the tests per the service manual (yes I am a n00b with a manual look out!). I have voltage as required per the manual, so by that regard I can deduct a bad baro sensor. Going to order one tomorrow and hopefully know more in a week or so. At least it's defaulting to running rich, so I shouldn't risk burning it up
 

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did the tests per the service manual (yes I am a n00b with a manual look out!). I have voltage as required per the manual, so by that regard I can deduct a bad baro sensor. Going to order one tomorrow and hopefully know more in a week or so. At least it's defaulting to running rich, so I shouldn't risk burning it up
Yeah, if the Baro sensor is bad or disconnected, the system defaults to standard pressure of 29.92" Hg (sea level).
In the mountains, it will definitely run on the rich side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yeah, if the Baro sensor is bad or disconnected, the system defaults to standard pressure of 29.92" Hg (sea level).
In the mountains, it will definitely run on the rich side.
It was just weird that it went out in a truck riding around. may have just gotten jostled the right way and cracked the crystal? I dunno. That was the part that just never made sense as it did not have the issue going onto the truck. The previous owner shot a video of it as the guy was there prepping to put it on board heh

All good now though, put the tune he had on it (modified 010 (full akra/flapper/filter) with some extra at 0% in the 4-7K range), and it runs like a bat out of hell. I need to find a shop that does PC tuning as well as has a dyno. Seems like the 2 up here do not go hand in hand, and most dyno placed only tune Ducati or Italian. She runs good, but she needs her own tune :)
 
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