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It actually is about half the cost of his stator. The Falicon Supercrank for the 51 is $428.
GPZ... your right.. but I was thinking more along the lines of folks that dont build their own engines like you & I. By the time you get the cases split, crank done, re-instal & all else that is involved your looking at $1200-$1500. All you have to do w/ Thorsten's set up is remove the stator cover pull the flywheel & install. Most shade tree mechanics can do this job in a hour or so... & his cost $700. Dont get me wrong though.. I think it is awesome that your doing this & sharing w/ everyone. :clapper My motor build is very different than yours so it will be cool to see how they compare... I just wish I was as far along as you are.. :(

Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #82 (Edited)
Ah, I understand.

Yes, it would be alot cheaper just to install his stator to loose mass. I'm rebuilding my motor because it's got alot of racing miles on it. I also am looking for a bit more power since I have to play with the experts from now on.

The total bill to redo my motor is going to be pricey even with me doing the labor.

Rough prices:

Porting the heads ~$600
Recoating the cylinders ~$400 or so (don't remember exactly)
Wiseco Pistons ~$350
Under cut trans ~$700
Falicon Supercrank ~$428 plus shipping
Misc. gaskets ans seals ~$250
Oil, Filter, Plugs, Coolant ~$150

GPZ... your right.. but I was thinking more along the lines of folks that dont build their own engines like you & I. By the time you get the cases split, crank done, re-instal & all else that is involved your looking at $1200-$1500. All you have to do w/ Thorsten's set up is remove the stator cover pull the flywheel & install. Most shade tree mechanics can do this job in a hour or so... & his cost $700. Dont get me wrong though.. I think it is awesome that your doing this & sharing w/ everyone. :clapper My motor build is very different than yours so it will be cool to see how they compare... I just wish I was as far along as you are.. :(

Cheers!
 

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Mondial I was wondering if you still had the pdf file of the HRC manual available? I tried clicking on the link, it its no longer active!
 

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Discussion Starter #84
Finally, we start the reassembly!

OK, the time has finally come around. I've been waiting for this day for awhile.

All the parts have showed up from the various places and are all back under one garage.

Last night was spent deburring the cases and measuring the clearances of the connecting rod and the main bearings with plastigage. Everything was within spec.

We used the old rod bolts as well as the old crankcase bolts for checking the clearances. You also use different torque specs when using the old bolts. :rtfm When we assembly the motor for good, we will use new rod and case bolts as they are not reusable.

I've also included a pic of the crank as we took it out of the box from Falicon. We then spent awhile cleaning it to make sure it was spotless before we checked the bearing clearances. Also if you send your crank to Falicon, MAKE SURE YOU WRITE DOWN THE BEARING NUMBERS OFF THE CRANK!! They wil be polsihed off as you can see. I took a picture of the crank, dropped it into Powerpoint, and added the bearing numbers in text boxes in the correct spot otherwise you'd be SOL.

You can also see the upper case which has been through the dishwasher while the lower case has not. We also put the shift forks / rod back in and the middle fork was replaced due to a little bit of wear.
 

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Sweet Job Man!!

Hey Chuck, did I read you had changed your mind about doing the 2nd "Big Breath Vent"... Or was that some one else.... It's been awhile since I read through this post... it's just too damn late and I'm baked again... Baked as in tired.. Not as in high...:p


Peace Buddy, Jeff
 

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Very nice gpz, please keep the pictures coming. How much does the crank weigh now compared to before?
 

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Discussion Starter #88
Yeah, we decided to go a different route instead of the big breather. We're going to install a Krankvent (Krank-Vent.com) which will create a vacuum in the crankcase. Kinda like what JD does with the Duc crank vent for his bikes.

Unfortunately we didn't weigh the crankshaft before we sent it out so I can't answer that. It's still pretty heavy but everything in these motors are heavy.
 

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I would be glad to host the HRC manual for others if you like. Just let me know where I can get a copy at and it will be as good as done.
 

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Discussion Starter #90
Cases Assembled

First off, I'm sorry I didn't get any pictures while we were assembling the cases. :(

So in assembling the cases, we measured the ring gaps and adjusted them. They all were too tight so each one was adjusted accordingly. The rods were cleaned up and the pistons attached. The wrist pins clips were a PITA to install. The wrist pins and piston pin bores were wiped with oil before installing the pins. The pistons were attached to the rods. The cylinders were wiped with oil until the paper towels came out clean.

The pistons were then installed in the cylinders. We wiped the rod and main bearings with oil and installed the crank. The rod caps were then installed and torqued. You also need a angle gauge to properly torque the rod bolts as well as 4 of main case bolts.

The transmission was then dropped into the case with a new seal for the sprocket. We also installed a new seal for the clutch push rod. The sealant was then applied to the cases in the correct location as per the manual.

The two case halves were put together. The case bolts were then installed. This also included the 4 new case bolts that you have to replace. The connecting rod bolts were also replaced. We torqued the main case bolts and tightened up the rest of the case bolts.

We called it a night after that.

I snapped some pics this morning. I included a close up pic of the where I cleaned up the lower case according to the HRC manual.
 

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Very nice GPZ, good pics too. What did you mean by angle gauge? Whats that
 

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Discussion Starter #93
A angle gauge is used for getting the bolts torqued to the proper stretch. Generally, you use a angle gauge on bolts that are used only once, such as the rod bolts. You use a torque wrench and torque the bolt to 20 ft/lbs and then you go an additional 120 degrees.

Snap-On makes the gauge we used.

TA360, Torque Angle Gauge, 1/2" Square Drive

Very nice GPZ, good pics too. What did you mean by angle gauge? Whats that
 

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Discussion Starter #95
We had some unfortunate family things to take care off out of town. I was able to get out in the garage last night and assemble some more of the engine.

I'll post up some pics later.

We'll do some more tonight.

One thing that I kinda messed up one was not running a tap in all the bolt holes in the top case. This is after I got it back from getting the cylinders replated. I went to tighten down the gear train for the front cylinder and felt the bolt tighten up before it was threaded all the way in. I then figured out there was crap in the bottom of the bolt hole. This is after I ran it through the dishwasher, hand cleaned it in the parts washer and in the heated parts washer at work. I then ran a tap in all the bolt holes and cleaned everything out. I did have to replace the one bolt that got tight on me. I just grabbed one out of the motor I popped when I got the bike.

I did get the gear trains installed and most of the right side of the engine. I need to finish assembling the clutch and put the covers on. Still have the left side which won't take long at all. put the heads and such on, and the bits on the bottom of the engine.

We are having a shop night tonight so we'll get some more done.

My hope / goal is to get it finished and installed so I can get it out to a practice day at Blackhawk before the 1st CCS round down at Topeka.

I also have to finish up our SV650 that I found out last night won't shift passed 2nd gear. It was a crashed insurance write off that went down on the left side. I'm hoping and praying that it's something simple like a bent shift shaft and we don't have to split the case on that one. I pulled the clutch cover off that one and will be checking it out tonight also.
 

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Just an FYI, you don't need an expensive gage like that. Just mark the points of the bolt on the case and socket. Rotating the bolt two flats will get you 120 degrees also.

A angle gauge is used for getting the bolts torqued to the proper stretch. Generally, you use a angle gauge on bolts that are used only once, such as the rod bolts. You use a torque wrench and torque the bolt to 20 ft/lbs and then you go an additional 120 degrees.

Snap-On makes the gauge we used.

TA360, Torque Angle Gauge, 1/2" Square Drive
 

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Discussion Starter #97
We got some more done last night. The heads are on it and the left side is all buttoned up. I didn't have a case sealer so I couldn't install the right side cover.

All that's left is the cams, valve covers, oil pick up & bypass, and the oil pan. Hopefully, I'll get some more done this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #99
Well, it's pretty much buttoned up now. I'm leaving the oil pan off since the engine is more stable while we're trying to install it.

I had to adjust one valve's clearance. All the rest were within spec. I was able to snag a shim out of the old motor.

You can see in the pics that I did leave the quieting gears on the cams. I also replaced the gear train with some stock ones.

We're going to put it back int he frame tonight and hopefully by this weekend, it be running.
 

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I've been following this thread since the start and I'm impressed. It's always cool to see how it looks all pulled apart. These types of threads don't pop up here very often.
 
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