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i guess i over exaggerated, but I felt the same way - couldn't believe he was so turned off to trying to fix the thing and was willing to sell it at such a loss. perhaps i should have said 'lazy' i would have picked that thing up for sure if the time was right. either way if he sold it to some soul thinking it was a minty bike for 8k+ I would be hunting him down for sure
 

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TOP GUN Instructor
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i guess i over exaggerated, but I felt the same way - couldn't believe he was so turned off to trying to fix the thing and was willing to sell it at such a loss. perhaps i should have said 'lazy' i would have picked that thing up for sure if the time was right. either way if he sold it to some soul thinking it was a minty bike for 8k+ I would be hunting him down for sure

+1, For Sure man,.. I can't see if there was any pictures here at work... Did he post pictures?... Does it look the same as 9hondas?...

Sucks No Matter what!
 

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Discussion Starter #63
Update: The transmission came back from Fast by Gast yesterday. I'll post some pics up tonight.

We are also going to try something a little different. Instead of going with the big breather set up, we're trying out a KrankVent. Krank-Vent.com We're still going to put a breather in the middle of the V but it's only going to be a 1/2" hose barb instead of the big breather. I just ordered up the krankvent and hope to have it in a few days. It is supposed to create a vacuum in the crankcase and I was told to seal off the breather in the front valve cover. I'll run a hose from the breather in the V and connect it to the krankvent. The krankvent will then go into a catch can, not the airbox.
 

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You'll have to get a little creative if you use a stock airbox. With something like the Durbahn airbox, just use a longer hose off the catch tank into the airbox and fit the Corsa breather valve onto the hose inside, very easy. It works great but first time you shut off the bike with the valve hooked up and it makes this big "squeeeeeeeek" noise as the vacuum in the engine goes away, it will freak you out. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Another quick update: I should have the cylinders & pistons back from Millennium at the end of the week. The holidays have played havoc with their schedule.

I've also placed the order for all the bearings, O-rings, and gaskets at my local dealer. Hopefully, I'll have them by the end of next week also.

I might be sending out the crank to Falicon to have them do their ultra-lite supercrank. The Honda mech. helping me out with this project feels very strongly about getting it all balanced and lightened. So much so, that he's offered to help pay to get the crank done.

I've also got some new front brake lines to install since my current ones are too short.
 

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Full Spectrum
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Quick note-

It might be worth looking into a different option regarding the rotating assembly. I would always recommend knife-edge, polish, and balancing the crank. I dont think that lightening it is the best way to reduce mass.
Consider a Thorsten alternator/flywheel instead. There are 2 versions available so you have a choice of how much weight to remove.

Remove it from the crank and you are stuck with what you get.:twocents
 

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Discussion Starter #70
I'd love to get Thorsten's alternator set up however, I love sleeping in my own bed too. My Wife would kill me if I ordered that up!

She's been very patient with my "hobby" and I don't want to push it any more.

Quick note-

It might be worth looking into a different option regarding the rotating assembly. I would always recommend knife-edge, polish, and balancing the crank. I dont think that lightening it is the best way to reduce mass.
Consider a Thorsten alternator/flywheel instead. There are 2 versions available so you have a choice of how much weight to remove.

Remove it from the crank and you are stuck with what you get.:twocents
 

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Discussion Starter #72
We're currently waiting on the crank to come back from Falicon. They have the crank, rods, and pistons. BTW: Falicon will not do the ultra-lite supercrank on a RC51. They'll only do the "regular" supercrank.

Make sure you clean your upper case when you get it back from Millennium. Mine had some gunk in the oil passage ways. The wife actually let me put them in the dishwasher!

I've got the gaskets, bearings, and such too.

The ported heads have also come back also. Alex Fornelli took care of the porting.

I'm still waiting on the Akro Ti left midpipe from LP also.
 

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Can you please post pictures of the falicon crankshaft when it gets back? I'd love to know also how much weight they shaved down. Keep this post going GPZ :notworthy :clapper :rockon
 

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WSMC #51, CVRA #51
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696 Posts
GPZ11, are you using the stock rods?

I just didn’t have the time to tear my motor apart so I drove it out to Mark Ledesma (formally of North Valley Honda). I like his approach and engine building philosophy. Here is a quick rundown of what we are doing for comparison.

-New stock rods
-Custom dome JE's with moly coated skirts (12.5:1 with OEM Heads, not 11.3 like the off the shelf High Comp parts), OEM Rings
-Cases re-plated back to STD bore by Millennium and honed to the pistons
-STD Dia Morawaki supplied endurance racing steel valves, polished and some other trick work (Thanks to Bob Hayashita)
-HRC SP1 Aluminum Retainers
-HRC SP1 Springs
-New OEM Keepers
-Custom Billet cams, The cams give 1mm more lift, 11.4mm vs. 10.4mm std and have more duration,267* vs 251* std @1mm lift. (Dale Warren Cams)
-J.D. Hord ported heads
-Morawaki aribox
-Akropovic full system
-VP U4.2
-Carmo Electronics extended rev limit ECU (11,000RPM)
-All quieting gears stock
-SP2 T-Bodies (this is a SP1 motor)

I have talked with everyone in length, Rick Hobbs, John Ethel, Bob Hayashita, Hord, Make Norman, Kiyo Wantanaba etch. Everyone has a different way of doing it and there own experiences, opinions. Some say you must run Carillos because they are lighter and stronger, yes they are, but do you really need them and will they make for faster lap times? The HRC crank and rotating assembly was heavier then the stock parts. Testing shows the bike simply went around the track faster with more rotating weight. I also could not find fault with the OEM rods, they just don’t seem to be a failure point. The problem with the RC motor is valve train harmonics. Hopefully getting rid of the hollow cast cams this wont be an issue for me, time will tell. I have been told the Falicon service is similar to the Carrilo rods. It’s nice but I really should not worry about it at this level. If I went by just my own opinion I would have it done, but I am relying heavily on Marks experience, so I will go with what he says. I have a dyno of this motor just before we pulled it apart. It will be very interesting to see how she runs when where done.

Here is my (not so up to date) website with some more info Stewart Racing, WSMC 551

Damon
WSMC #551
 

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Wow, thats alot to undertake on the RC. Watch out with rasing the rev limiter on the RC. I saw your website a while back are you on Rogue too? So your engine builder said not to go with a Falicon crank? Well keep us posted and i'd like to see pics and good luck.
 

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WSMC #51, CVRA #51
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696 Posts
Yes, I’m on Rogue. I’m not too worried about a stock the bottom end even at 11K, it’s the top end where you run in to problems. My engine builder said "it was not necessary and I recommend spending the money where its needed". He had several fully kitted RC's, one made over 165HP, all with stock bottom ends. So, who am I to argue?
 

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I’m not too worried about a stock the bottom end even at 11K, it’s the top end where you run in to problems.
Damon is correct.. the RC's bottom end is actually good for 12K. Currently my MOTEC is set for 11.4K also Thorsten has run his @ 11.5K for 3500 miles & zero problems. I too have talked to many of the names Damon has all with the same info.. RC bottom end is very strong. Also John told me that there was VERY little difference in the HRC bottom end & the stocker. The wink link is the top end for anything above 11K.
 

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Discussion Starter #80
Not as much as Thorsten's Race Stator & twice the cost... :twocents
OK, you partially lost me on this statement.

I get the part about Falicon not removing as much weight at Thorsten's stator but It doesn't cost twice as much.

It actually is about half the cost of his stator. The Falicon Supercrank for the 51 is $428. I thought his stator set up cost about $1000

Please correct me if I'm wrong cause if his stator set up is $250, I'll order it up in a heartbeat.
 
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