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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I keep reading in posts from guys with 916's and 996's that they swap over to metal fuel line disconnects.

Do those bikes have different fuel lines that allow that?

The 998 has what looks like a normal rubber fuel line but in actuality it has a hard plastic line that is almost like a hardline which is covered with a rubber hose and the fuel disconnects are bonded to the plastic hardline.

So no go on swapping over to metal fuel disconnects with the stock hose.

Has anybody with a 998 swapped over to the older 996 line? I imagine there shouldn't be an issue but I know the 998's use shower injectors and maybe Ducati felt they could keep the fuel pressures up with a hardline as opposed to a normal rubber line?

I hate having to buy these stupid things every two years because the plastic dry rots and breaks when you breathe on it.
 

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You need to replace the fuel delivery and recirc. lines to the tb`s as well if you plan on going with the metal disconnects. You can buy the fuel line at any parts source etc. Make sure it has the proper R rating.
 

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The 998 has (I forget the composition) fuel lines that are assembled by heating the liner to ~300F in glycol to soften it then quickly placed on the fittings. One of those factory manufacturing steps we likely can't do. Spose you could do it in hot oil though.

When the cheapo plastic QD's went tits up I swapped to conventional injector type fuel line as purchased at NAPA for ~$3/foot. You'll find it's a tight fit over the metal QD's but a semi loose fit on the distribution block under the airbox. Use clamps that do not have the worm screw. Get the clamps secured with a screw and nut which are also available at NAPA. It looks kinda bodgy but it works.

*I had a hot restart vapor lock problem numerous times with the stock lines so I put silver mylar/nomex firesleeve over the new hoses and it cured the vapor lock condition. I didn't change anything inside the airbox.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The 998 has (I forget the composition) fuel lines that are assembled by heating the liner to ~300F in glycol to soften it then quickly placed on the fittings. One of those factory manufacturing steps we likely can't do. Spose you could do it in hot oil though.

When the cheapo plastic QD's went tits up I swapped to conventional injector type fuel line as purchased at NAPA for ~$3/foot. You'll find it's a tight fit over the metal QD's but a semi loose fit on the distribution block under the airbox. Use clamps that do not have the worm screw. Get the clamps secured with a screw and nut which are also available at NAPA. It looks kinda bodgy but it works.

*I had a hot restart vapor lock problem numerous times with the stock lines so I put silver mylar/nomex firesleeve over the new hoses and it cured the vapor lock condition. I didn't change anything inside the airbox.
My wife is going to be looking at me funny if I pull out the Fry-Daddy and start dipping my fuel lines in it... but that sounds like the easy part...how in the hell would you push the connectors in after it was heated up... mylar gloves I guess... Has anybody ever successfully done this I wonder. I actually have some old stock plastic QD's that I cut off the last fuel line I had when it went bad. I might try to heat them up just to expiriment with how hard the line is to put on and off as they still have a length of the hose connected to them. But now onto realism... where is the best place to source the metal QD's and they work with the OEM fittings that are in the fuel pump or do those have to be changed out too?
 

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My wife is going to be looking at me funny if I pull out the Fry-Daddy and start dipping my fuel lines in it... but that sounds like the easy part...how in the hell would you push the connectors in after it was heated up... mylar gloves I guess... Has anybody ever successfully done this I wonder. I actually have some old stock plastic QD's that I cut off the last fuel line I had when it went bad. I might try to heat them up just to expiriment with how hard the line is to put on and off as they still have a length of the hose connected to them. But now onto realism... where is the best place to source the metal QD's and they work with the OEM fittings that are in the fuel pump or do those have to be changed out too?
It's done on a machine that holds the fitting, expands the heated line then inserts it into the line. Don't bother trying! *She'd shit if the Fry Daddy smells like 10W40.

The metal QD's can be sourced from many places. A good guy that deserves the business is: Desmo Times LLC - The Home of DIY Ducati Maintenance Parts and Accessories

Note that the QD's as you know have the push tab for releasing. These have sharp edges that adroitly shear the O rings. Grease the male QD and depress the tab when inserting the QD to preclude shearing some of the O ring material and subsequent leaking.
 

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Quack for Ducs
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My wife is going to be looking at me funny if I pull out the Fry-Daddy and start dipping my fuel lines in it... but that sounds like the easy part...how in the hell would you push the connectors in after it was heated up... mylar gloves I guess... Has anybody ever successfully done this I wonder. I actually have some old stock plastic QD's that I cut off the last fuel line I had when it went bad. I might try to heat them up just to expiriment with how hard the line is to put on and off as they still have a length of the hose connected to them. But now onto realism... where is the best place to source the metal QD's and they work with the OEM fittings that are in the fuel pump or do those have to be changed out too?
I have done this a long time ago on my 998.....i heated the lines in boiling water, used gloved, and pressed them right onto the metal QD's...I also used fuel injector hose clamps...works great!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have done this a long time ago on my 998.....i heated the lines in boiling water, used gloved, and pressed them right onto the metal QD's...I also used fuel injector hose clamps...works great!
So to use a quote from the movie "Dumb And Dumber"

"So I gotta chance!"

Sweet...im trying it.
 

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*I had a hot restart vapor lock problem numerous times with the stock lines so I put silver mylar/nomex firesleeve over the new hoses and it cured the vapor lock condition. I didn't change anything inside the airbox.
Could you please elaborate on this? I replaced my fuel lines and QD's this winter and I'm having the "hot restart vapor lock" problem now. Did you run firesleeve under the fuel line clamps, or up against them?

It used to start after about 2 sec. of cranking. Now, when it's hot, it takes cranking the engine for roughly 8 sec, 3 times before it starts.
 

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Quack for Ducs
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So to use a quote from the movie "Dumb And Dumber"

"So I gotta chance!"

Sweet...im trying it.
so did it work?

Not sure about vapor locking since the fuel is pumped in a loop out of the fuel tank, hence the two lines going into one fitting.
 

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Could you please elaborate on this? I replaced my fuel lines and QD's this winter and I'm having the "hot restart vapor lock" problem now. Did you run firesleeve under the fuel line clamps, or up against them?

It used to start after about 2 sec. of cranking. Now, when it's hot, it takes cranking the engine for roughly 8 sec, 3 times before it starts.
I ran the firesleeve full length on both lines. No need to clamp it down. IIRC there is 4 feet in the package and it was enough to cover the lines easily. As the lines run over the rear head cover they will heat soak when the bike is sitting. If you have that stupid alcohol fuel it's worse as the alcohol boils at about 180 F.

Here's what I used and it completely eliminated the problem.
 

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Quack for Ducs
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I ran the firesleeve full length on both lines. No need to clamp it down. IIRC there is 4 feet in the package and it was enough to cover the lines easily. As the lines run over the rear head cover they will heat soak when the bike is sitting. If you have that stupid alcohol fuel it's worse as the alcohol boils at about 180 F.

Here's what I used and it completely eliminated the problem.
As an FYI....When hot, trying cycling the fuel pump a few times i,e,. turn on/off key. This should prime the lines. I used to think that my bike was vapor locking and ended up wrapping the lines with this stuff.......didn't make a difference at all. Ended up being a map issue with the ECU. Living in Houston now where it gets crazy hot and bike starts every time, even with high comp pistons.

Cheers
 

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As for clamps I use the correct ones-
OKI-OET 18500060 Stepless Clamp Kit#
and 1/4 inch "fuel injector" hose on my 999.
I have the leaking QD fittings on my 748R. Just purchased new CDC metal disconnects. And i'm looking for the oetiker clamps. i'm just a unsure as to what the proper size is. The part, LCD23006 says it's a 3/8 barbed. wouldn't i want to use a 3/8 clamp?
 

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the sizing of the clamps is critical, but difficult to determine. I have a set of metric and some standard, because the clamp must slip over the hose at the barb tightly before crimping to make a quality seal- so it's best to measure accurately at the hose/ barb area for ID. or just buy the kit (you'll need the pliers anyway)
BTW- I've been able to source many size clamps in small lots from home brew beer suppliers- check Ebay- Amazon.
Steve
 
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