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Bemused
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969 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've read a bunch of the previous threads regarding the coil mod, and while it seems to be preferred to get the ifr9h11 iridium plugs, there's no way I can get them cut. So, I'm confused about what plugs would be "plug" and play... Is it the IK20's for a SP2?
 

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Premium Member
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4,339 Posts
The plugs can have threads cut/rolled into them. You might want to try going down to you local auto parts store and have them cross reference the NGK to other plugs. You may find another plug manufacture makes a plug you can simply bolt in. By the way, you DO NOT HAVE the use the iridium plug. The platinum or copper plug will work just fine. All you are looking for is the same heat range. If the plug is good for the SP1 its good for the SP2, and vise versa.
 

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Bemused
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969 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The plugs can have threads cut/rolled into them. You might want to try going down to you local auto parts store and have them cross reference the NGK to other plugs. You may find another plug manufacture makes a plug you can simply bolt in. By the way, you DO NOT HAVE the use the iridium plug. The platinum or copper plug will work just fine. All you are looking for is the same heat range. If the plug is good for the SP1 its good for the SP2, and vise versa.
Thanks for the reply Varium, but I'm still a little unclear. My understanding was that the ifr9h11 plugs I referenced were preferred because they had the proper gaping, but still needed to be cut/rolled, I'm trying to avoid having to do that. And in the threads I've read there seemed to be some confusion over the IK27's not having proper gaping either, but the IK24's or IK20's worked?

Are you just suggesting I should just go down to the auto parts store see if they can find a plug that fits the CBR coil but has RC51 gaping?
 

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Registered
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408 Posts
I think what he is saying is to go to the local parts store with the part number you know that people use (ifr9h11)and have them cross reference that number with anoother type, EI. NGK, E3, auto lite...etc. that has same thread pitch and gap. It will be easy for them to do if they carry ifr9h11. and perhaps they will have proper thread setup so you wouldnt have to re thread them.
 

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Premium Member
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4,339 Posts
Gapping is the least of your worries. The plugs you are looking to buy can be easily gapped to whatever you want. The thing you want is to get the same heat range or the next range to what the oe requires. You can find a plug that has that then you can find one that already has the end of the plug you are looking for. A lot of manufactures will make threaded ends then thread on caps for the old standard wire plug connection. ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Yeah, yeah; some say you can't gap an IR or PL plug but that's hokie. If you are careful not to touch the electrode then you'll be fine. Its the ham fisted wrench monkeys that don't know how to fineness a gap procedure that ends up ruining the electrode.
 

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Premium Member
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4,339 Posts
FYI, plugs are used across a wide range of applications. Just because you buy a plug with the right part number does not mean its already properly gapped for your application. ALWAYS, let me say that again, ALWAYS check the gap before installing. And even if they are gapped properly at the factory doesn't mean it will have the same gap by the time you install it. Things get bumped in packaging, shipping, stocking, others taking plugs out and fiddling with them before you get them, etc. Most manufacturers are using cardboard cups to keep plugs from getting banged around until install, but you should ALWAYS double check the gap before installing. Even some NGK plugs i've bought in the past were not properly gapped.
 

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And Stateside again...
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2,537 Posts
If i remember right from when i was researching this, The IK20's were way too HOT for the RC's and I was told i risked burning a whole in them.

I used a Grinder to cut down my NGK's till the fit in the coil tightly. you know trial and error with a bench grinder and light cuts careful not to hit the porcelain. I have 5000 miles on them now and they are working fine and bike seems to start faster.

They will be getting changed if Wingnutt ever comes through with Plugs for me. I am changing them when i do my Valve adjust at 40k and installing my new tank and throsten Airbox. Figure do it all at once and bee good for a season.
 
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