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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,

I'm finally getting around to fixing my RC51 after the previous owner broke the drive chain and subsequently the case around the countershaft sprocket, and purposely didn't tell me about it prior to purchase. I was not successful in prosecuting the dirtbag, it got to be more $$ and hassle than it was worth since he was in another state even though I had plenty of hard evidence. Interestingly I did learn that the FBI has a $100,000 threshold that has to be met before they will bother to get involved, they are too busy chasing big fish. Local law enforcement kept referring me to the feds since it was an interstate deal. Isn't it nice to know small-time wire fraud criminals are free to operate without government hassle?

(http://www.speedzilla.com/forums/rc.../43573-engine-rebuild-101-a-3.html#post440845)

Anyway, after doing a recent repair to the cases of a Suzuki RM85 I've discovered that the Japanese cast aluminum welds quite nicely. I've got the motor out now and my plan is to tig the broken/missing parts and build it up with aluminum, then re-machine it so I can mount the countershaft cover. I've made a nice jig for machining the motor, a big plate with four threaded rods with double nuts set to hold the motor perfectly level in my bridgeport milling machine. I'll use heli-coils for the threads since the built up aluminum won't be as hard as the original case material. I'm thinking I should be able to do a decent looking as well as totally solid repair and avoid motor replacement or a complete case swap which is basically an engine rebuild.

Here's the reason for my post: Since I'll be welding right next to the clutch pushrod I was wondering if I can just pull it all the way out for easier access and then replace it when I'm done, or is it a booby-trap of some sort? Removing the pushrod will also make it easier to remove and replace the pushrod seal since I'll be welding very close to it.

Looking at the manual it doesn't look like its a problem, but I remember some dirt bike engines have small little ball bearings that sit at the end of the rod and I don't want to have to completely disassemble the motor looking for something.

Would it be better to take the clutch cover off and pull the pushrod out that way?

Thanks!
 

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Just be sure and not pull the clutch lever at all while you have it apart and it will go back together nice and easy. IIRC, the manual says something wrong about that part, I think it says to tie it to the handle bar or something. If you leave it alone, you won't be fighting the pressure on the slave cylinder while trying to bolt the sprocket cover back on. If you did pull the lever, you can just bleed it (probably a good time to replace the clutch fluid anyways).
 

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You can pull the push rod on either side and yup..don't pull the clutch lever which I found out a few days ago but on the good side I had to replace the clutch fluid also.
 

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Have you considered using Time-Serts vs helicoils?
I used to use them to repair stripped ATV and dirt bike case threads.
A lot better than helicoils.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I already took the cutch lever off the perch so nobody can be tempted to pull it and make more work for me.

Thanks for the tip on the timeserts too. I think I will get a kit and test it out. I've done a few helicoils, and they do take a certain amount of care to install correctly, but the timesert videos make them look pretty easy.
 

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Behind In His Steering...
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I already took the cutch lever off the perch so nobody can be tempted to pull it and make more work for me.
I was gonna suggest that. Brilliant minds think alike!
 

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Tserts are cool but they need more material around to be of great use. If you have plenty they are way better than hell i coil:D
 

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Behind In His Steering...
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I accidentally bumped mine when I hade the slave cylinder off.
Yeah, and how many of us have given the ol' brake lever a moronic, unintended squeeze with the pads out or the calipers hanging from their hoses? :banghead :banghead :banghead
 
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