<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Judge »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">way to thread crap....thanks. I could see if someone asked to see it, but they did not. Also, care to explain to me how an aluminum tool is better for it when the steels that it sees in daily life are just that...steel? Does not matter to me either way....he asked if I could make him one and I did. He loved it, did his clutch and it worked perfectly...then you jump in with your pictures. Not cool at all. How about toss your own thread out maybe? I can take alot of crap...but disrespecting me like this in not one of them.
Modified by Judge at 5:30 PM 4/10/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you look at the number of posts I have, you will see I have been on here for years trying to help and be part of this site. Slopoke threw my name out and I thought I would show what he was talking about. I meant no disrespect to you at all, if anyone on here has extra steel plates and want to ship them off to you they can.
The aluminum holding plates I use are a full half inch thick of total contact to the hub. In normal use, the engines torque and horsepower is distributed into nine steel plates and there are rubber cush drives on the back side of the hub to absorb shock. The most torque a Ducati puts out is maybe 80 pounds for a beast of a Duc, but that torque is at upper rpms, not when the bike is being launched. Once the clutch is engaged it isn't slipping any more. So most times the aluminum hub has only a small amount of power distributed to nine plates.
The tool on the other hand has to hold the hub from rotating while the center nut is torqued to 137 lb. ft of torque. If that much force is placed on too small of a surface area, then damage to the hub can occur. You also might want to look closely at a hub and you'll see where the steels beat on the hub.