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Discussion Starter #1
I've heard that the adjustment marks at the end of the swingarm aren't always 100% accurate as far as both sides being exactly the same. Whats the best procedure for achieving precise adjustment so the rear wheel runs absolutely true?
Later
 
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Discussion Starter #2
What type of bike is it? I have a Monster, and they are not quit the same. I use a tape measure from the swingarm pivot. (remove the rubber plugs) to the innere edge of the axle, making sure I have an even protrusion on both sides.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Use the marks, then spin the wheel and eyeball it for wobble.
 
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Re: (airnordica)

hate to be the hater...but don't eye ball anything ever....when it comes to safety, wear, or other...it all costs money..


be the minor conservative and (dont know your bike as posted) ( which actually matters for the answer) but get yourself the cheapo MM rule and you'll get it on each side, which i'm assuming the question.......further......considering the non-single sided.....and consicering your question.....it takes more than once...then down on the ground.....roll foward/ hit brakes.....up again measure...down again..etc...until you are prime....

It never happens without luck the first time is you are anal...on a dual arm rear.

if its single and you aren't happy.....cut or get new chain
 
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I'm going to use the simple tool I made to check my old Harley's rear wheel for centering: I used a stout, straight wire about 6 inches long and a small zip tie. Bend the wire at a 90 degree about 1 inch down from one end, and slip the zip tie on the open and zip it down as much as you can; it will still slide on the wire. Place the short bend of the wire into one side of the the hollow axle and gently pull back on it so it ends up about half way up the inner radius, then slip the zip tie up to align with the rear of the swing arm. Once the disatnce is equal on both sides realtive to the wire's position in the hollow axle, it's centred. Make sure you torque the axle nuts up to spec, and mark them with some paint to check every pre-ride to see if they've moved. They can and will back out. Let me know how it works, as I haven't used my tool on my Ducati yet, but I'm thinking it will work as well on it as it did on the HD.
 
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Answered my own question as to whether the simple tire centering tool would work on my ST3 last night. Works very well, as I found I needed to recentre it after previously using the axle gauge plates only, ie I was off by about 1 mm. I had to use a new zip tie, and cut it down a bit so the toll looks like an 'F". That way the zip tie extends far enough out to touch the back of the swing arm. Place in one side of the hollow axle, move the zip tie up thw wire so it touchesthe back of the swing arm, just above the chain tensioner bolt head, than pull it out, flip it over, and slide in the other side of the axle, and see if the distance is the same. Easy and quick.
 
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