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Discussion Starter #1
I have a new dealer wanting to sell me a set of Carrozzeria Tri-R wheels for my RC. They come with a rear sprocket (ZX Pattern) for $1600 to my door. Are these good wheels and is this a good deal? I just bought a set of Bremba rotors for the front. I wonder if they will still fit.
 

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He with the senior member
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Very nice wheels. On some earlier versions, there were reports of some paint issues - very thinly applied, but all of these wheels that I've seen have been real nice. I think you will enjoy them.
 

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I have a black set on my RC and love them. huge diff in handling and looks. snatch em up and jsut remember to use half the manufacturers torque values on the axles. i torque mine to 50 lbs front and rear.
 

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He with the senior member
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I have a black set on my RC and love them. huge diff in handling and looks. snatch em up and jsut remember to use half the manufacturers torque values on the axles. i torque mine to 50 lbs front and rear.
why?.....
 

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He with the senior member
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How does tightening the axle and clamp nuts have anything to do with the bearings? The ball or roller bearings themselves are not touched by axle nut or axle clamp nut torque
 

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How does tightening the axle and clamp nuts have anything to do with the bearings? The ball or roller bearings themselves are not touched by axle nut or axle clamp nut torque

we are not talking about a 999 rear wheel :D

take a standard rear wheel and overtighten it down it will deform the race enough to cause friction and toast the bearing
 

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TOP GUN Instructor
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we are not talking about a 999 rear wheel :D

take a standard rear wheel and overtighten it down it will deform the race enough to cause friction and toast the bearing

Yeah Mark, BUT the key word here is "Overtighten"..;) . How is OEM spec over doing it, as this seems to me... You would really need to WAY Over do it, to deform the metal!....?
 

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Well as for the realibility & quality:

Have owned a set for 5 years now for my 636...No issues
Have owned a set for 3 years now on my 10R...No issues

both the wheel quality is like new, and they tracked as well.

I don think the front wheel design sucks for removing tires, as there is not a deep enough area for the wheel to sit..so i cut off front tires to save the wheels...only bad thing,
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I guess I am missing something. If all your spacers (both outers, the sprocket carrier and the inner) and the inner races of the bearings are all within spec, the outer race and ball bearings should never get hurt. The pressure is applied due to the axle and nut squeezing. What is between the axle and nut is the chain adjusters, outer spacers, inner races of the bearings, sprocket carrier spacer and the inner spacer.

The only way I see something happening is if the spacers have worn and are not the propper length, or the bearings are not seated properly in the wheel/sprocket carrier or the wrong bearings (too thin) have been installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well as for the realibility & quality:

Have owned a set for 5 years now for my 636...No issues
Have owned a set for 3 years now on my 10R...No issues

both the wheel quality is like new, and they tracked as well.

I don think the front wheel design sucks for removing tires, as there is not a deep enough area for the wheel to sit..so i cut off front tires to save the wheels...only bad thing,

Are you using OEM torque specs?
 

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I guess I am missing something. If all your spacers (both outers, the sprocket carrier and the inner) and the inner races of the bearings are all within spec, the outer race and ball bearings should never get hurt. The pressure is applied due to the axle and nut squeezing. What is between the axle and nut is the chain adjusters, outer spacers, inner races of the bearings, sprocket carrier spacer and the inner spacer.

The only way I see something happening is if the spacers have worn and are not the propper length, or the bearings are not seated properly in the wheel/sprocket carrier or the wrong bearings (too thin) have been installed.

my suggestion is to contact the manufacturer and let them do their job and explain the details to you.

ask to speak with Mark or Matsu and they will gladly help you and answer your questions.

I have not tightened a rear axle nut on any of my bikes in the last 15+ years past snug and omph(so about 40-50) regardless of wheels and they never have had a problem FWIW
 

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I am using 45-50ft lbs just like mark does, half of what is recommended stock.
I use the same prinicpal on my BST wheels as it says 45-50ft lbs as well..
And once again as mark said there is absolutely no reason to do 90ft lbs on a stock wheel, barring a 1098/1198/848 wheel.
 

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chimp on my shoulder
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And once again as mark said there is absolutely no reason to do 90ft lbs on a stock wheel, barring a 1098/1198/848 wheel.
no, really you are correct. Honda doesn't know squat about how the swing arm was designed and where it was designed to flex, and where it was designed to put flex into the chassis. there is a reason why they made the swinger stiffer and by reducing the axle torque you are effectively undoing the design by introducing flex where it wasn't designed to be.
 

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Hmm, this article's piqued my interest for future know-how. So I've got stock wheels on my RC and it's NOT okay to use the stock torque setting?
 
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