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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Kind of a flamer question, but I am curious for input.

With my stock brake pads installed, my front wheel seemed to spin pretty freely when off the ground. After my last track day, my front pads were pretty destroyed, so I decided to install a set of the sintered Galfers I bought at the GP.

The pads are installed, brake fluid flushed and bled. Now the brake drag is pretty stiff. So I decided I would go out and do some gentle braking to a stop to seat the pads. Did about 20 minutes of roll ups to about 30-40 and easy braking all the way to a stop. Came back and the brake drag is still pretty bad.

Is this something that is normal with the ceramic sintered pads? Is there anything I might have overlooked or should I just forget about it?

I have a trackday this Friday.

Thanks for any input.
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Re: Brake Drag (ebnash)

Brakes have to have "some" drag. If the pads retracted all the way off the rotor so you could see light then that would equal mush when you pulled the lever.

Maybe your stock pads were so worn that the were no longer brushing the discs, maybe the Galfers have a thicker backing plate so they drag more, or maybe your pistons got bumped out during the swap. You could always back bleed the front to be sure.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: Brake Drag (Just Riding Along)

I agree maybe the pads are thicker, but the pistons should self adjust when brake pressure is applied and released. I did do a full bleed on the system. I also understand all brakes must drag. I was just concerned about the amount of drag. I will probably just run them and see how the bike responds. Thanks for your input.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Re: Brake Drag (ebnash)

You could try pre-loading the o-rings (that's all that retracts the pads and pistons, 4 O-rings).
Knock the pads back, put a plastic shim about as thick as a business card between the pads and rotors, pump the brakes, pull the shims, and then pump the brakes again. That'll max the return action.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Re: Brake Drag (ebnash)

Eric this is normal. One thing you may consider is to disassemble the calipers and "blueprint" the pistons. Just a complete service with attention to polishing the surface and thoroughly cleaning the "o-rings" as well as confirming the pad pins are polished to a mirror like finish to allow the pads to have zero friction. Lastly confirm the calipers are perfectly centered over each rotor. I have seen discrepancies in this area by as much as 2 mm and it can have a small effect. You can adjust the centering with machine stock Shims on the caliper to go positive or the rotor to go negative
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Re: Brake Drag (sp2pilot)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sp2pilot »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Eric this is normal. One thing you may consider is to disassemble the calipers and "blueprint" the pistons. Just a complete service with attention to polishing the surface and thoroughly cleaning the "o-rings" as well as confirming the pad pins are polished to a mirror like finish to allow the pads to have zero friction. Lastly confirm the calipers are perfectly centered over each rotor. I have seen discrepancies in this area by as much as 2 mm and it can have a small effect. You can adjust the centering with machine stock Shims on the caliper to go positive or the rotor to go negative</TD></TR></TABLE>

Robert, maybe this is a project we can do together and document on your website. What do ya think? This Saturday?
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Re: Brake Drag (sp2pilot)

Cool, I am riding T-hill Friday but I am coming back that same day. I will give you a call Saturday morning and I will truck the bike over.
 
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