[Guest]

I'm back with a P.I.T.A. clutch question. The problem I have with my bike is with an aftermarket clutch I installed. I installed an aluminum Motowheels clutch basket and aluminum Barnett clutch pack. Only to find out that the damn clutch would not disengage. So I threw in the towl and took it to a shop to finish/fix. (I dropped my bike off at a shop on 5/18. I was told by the shop that they were very busy and would not get to my bike for a few weeks. I understand that, small shop, summer time, etc.) Got a phone call from the shop today (6/10) that they too were not able to fix the problem. I was told that they have problems with Barnett clutch packs in Ducati's all of the time... Well that doesn't help me!

I was told that maybe over time it would "wear in". So, any recommendations here? Should I take her home and try to "wear her in"? If so wouldn't the best means of doing so be a looong ride on open highway? Please throw me a bone here, it is almost the middle of June, for the

of Pete!!!!!

 

[Guest]

Re: Barnett clutch pack question... (Dutch900)

File the edges of the plates down. Past posts also show this is common problem. I used Barnett basket and had not trouble, but others have had to file the tangs down for smooth operation.

 

[Guest]

Re: Barnett clutch pack question... (Dutch900)

I've got a complete clutch kit (basket, Barnett alum plates, bolts, springs) from Pro Cutting: Charlie Smith, Las Vegas, NV 702-296-7496..A really incredible kit. Custom fit plates and beautifully machined basket.
Very helpful gentleman also.
Maybe he can help you out.

 

[Guest]

Re: Barnett clutch pack question... (kwhalen917)

Repack it at 36mm and try that

 

[Guest]

Re: Barnett clutch pack question... (Dutch900)

Also make sure you installed it as per Barnett guide. Seems it was different from standard Ducati plates in regard to placement of steel plates.

 

[Guest]

Re: Barnett clutch pack question... (kwhalen917)

I installed it via the Barnett instructions. In order to accomplish this I had to file down every stupid "tang" so the plates would fit into the basket. I then tried to stack the plates with the "curve" plate in different areas. Still nothing...

"Repack it at 36mm and try that

"

I am to stupid to even know what this means. That should be clue #1 to me that I should put the stock clutch in it and then trade her in for a bike that I want and have only been fooling myself and trying to make my bike into something it is not.
(Damn can you tell I worked two doubles in a row, I'm trying to quit smokeless tobacco, and haven't had a soda in 2 weeks... )

I quit.

 

[Guest]

if you decide to sell...let me know. I'm serious.

 

[Guest]

Re: Barnett clutch pack question... (Dutch900)

I think if you want to "wear it in" the best way would be several hard launches accompanied by all the clutch slippage you can generate. You could probably get the same effect by manually thinning down the friction material on the plates slightly, or maybe even pulling a plain plate if that doesn't make the stack height too small.

Just out of curiosity, do you have an aftermarket clutch slave? Is your clutch lever adjustable?

 

[Guest]

Re: Barnett clutch pack question... (Dutch900)

The 36mm that section8 refers-to is the overall height of the stack of plates.

A too-high overall thickness of the plate stack will cause drag between plates when the clutch is disengaged making it difficult to select neutral when the bike is stopped.

The last 2mm steel plate can be interchanged with a 1.5mm curved plate facing away from you if you want to adjust the stack to get the 38mm stack thickness, or if you want a more progressive, soft clutch engagement. A commonly-used substitution that adds an additional spring plate to the stack.

Any of the steel 2mm plain plates can be exchanged with 1.5mm plain plates to reduce stack thickness or increase stack thickness as needed to achieve your desired overall height. You will see the need for this as friction plates wear, so keep your steel plates from pervious clutch replacements as spares to be used as height adjustments later. The 2mm and 1.5mm steel plates only need replacing if they’re scored or warped.

The standard stack height is 38mm, but different bikes and vendors use different plate combinations and plate thicknesses to get this number.

 

[Guest]

Re: Barnett clutch pack question... (tricklidz1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tricklidz1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've got a complete clutch kit (basket, Barnett alum plates, bolts, springs) from Pro Cutting: Charlie Smith,: </TD></TR></TABLE>

I second this. I have the same setup in my ST2, and I will be very sad to see it go. Truely a work of art and craftsmenship. You will not find a quiter clutch, ever. Charlie is selling some of his goods through LT Snider at http://www.desmotimes.com.

 

[Guest]

Re: Barnett clutch pack question... (georgeb)

forgot about the "quiet" part!!
I have the quietest 748 in the pits

 

[Guest]

Re: Barnett clutch pack question... (Random Guy)

"Just out of curiosity, do you have an aftermarket clutch slave?" Yes


"Is your clutch lever adjustable?" Nope

Have a couple beers in me now, and had a cool down period too. I will have to re-read this thread in a better state of mind and see what's up...
Doh!

 

[Guest]

Re: Barnett clutch pack question... (Dutch900)

The aftermarket slave gives you reduced effort, but it also moves the pressure plate a bit less. Combined with a new, thicker clutch pack you can get a clutch that won't disengage. With an adjustable lever you could just adjust a click or two out so the engage/disengage spot moves away from the bar.

A simple thing you might try is pulling two of the clutch springs, so you're just running four. Less preload on the pressure plate might give you a little more movement and let the clutch disengage. If that doesn't work you'll have to play with the stack height.

All of the suggestions in this thread assume that the lines are well bled. It could be that a tiny amount of air wasn't noticeable before with your worn clutch pack, and now it's preventing you from getting the full travel you need to disengage the new clutch pack.

 

[Guest]

Re: Barnett clutch pack question... (Dutch900)

Dutch, I installed a Barnett basket with Barnett plates on my 998 and was using an aftermarket salve cylinder. After installation the clutch would not totally disengage like yours. I put the stock slave cylinder back on and the clutch worked well. The Barnett clutch pack is thicker than stock. Good luck.

 

[Guest]

Re: Barnett clutch pack question... (Shazaam!)

Well, I took it for a ride today at the shop. She runs like a raped ape, but damn that stupid clutch. So I asked the owner of the shop about dropping the stack height in the pack with 1.5mm plates. He is going to mess around a little more and give a shout to Barnett to see what they recommend. I also told him to put adjustable levers on her while he was at it...hey can't hurt. So I guess I wait until the next phone call from him to see if he remedied it.

 

[Guest]

Re: Barnett clutch pack question... (Dutch900)

If you still have your stock plates you can always switch the thick plate from the Barnett with a good shape thin stock one. I've done that before.

 

[Guest]

Seems to me your clutch is not disengaging because of too-limited movement of the clutch slave doesnt push the clutch pushrod enough for the clutch to actually disengage.

There are 3 possible solutions to this;

1- Wear it in. That is, abuse the cluch untill you have burned off enough millimiters of friction plate material to allow the reduced travel on your clutch pushrod to actually disengage the clutch.

It's a bit of a dirty hack, it *will* reduce the life of your clutch plates and will possibly result in other bad stuff (such as beat-up clutch basket and plate tangs), but it will most likely work. Try hard launches and slipping your clutch lots.

2. Reduce the height of your plate stack by introsucing some thinner plates. That's what Section8 was recomending. The most "pro" solution, it will almost certainly work, is the most expensive approach because you need to buy some thinner plates.

3. Go to the left side of the bike, pull out you clutch slave, and stick a couple of thin washers into the hole where the clutch pushrod goes, lubricate and reassemble. This is the "if mohamend doesnt go to the mountain" approach - what you are in effect doing is lengthening your pushrod by a couple of milimiters, which effectivelly "reduces" the height of your clutch pack by the same amount. The upside is that it's a less effort to do, and only requires $0.02 washers that you can get in your local hardware store...

Good luck!

Eduardo

 

[Guest]

if trying a four spings method to reduce clutch pull will the two empties need plugged/covered at the plate? Will difficulty with getting nuetral be helped with the four sping approach ?