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Discussion Starter #1
i know its the wrong forum, but the dudes on the r6 forum dont seem to know whats whats, and the people here seem fairly well educated.

i have a 2004 r6, it was a buddies bike, and ran fine. he lowsided due to wetness, the bike slid into a minivan bumper

twisted the forks, cracked the stator cover, thats it, aside from cosmetic damage.

harness still intact

the bike has a fresh good battery, and is always on the tender, even when i am attempting to jump it, so it has plenty of amperage.

new fuses

when i hit the starter button, it turns over like new, but wont fire, wont start, hasnt done it a single time. heres the catch. the instant i let go of the starter button, the fuel pump primes. every single time without fail. the other issue is that if i hit the kill switch, when i turn it back on, the pump DOES NOT prime. never has. both issues are 100% consistent since i have had the bike.

what i have tried so far

when i turn the bike on, pump primes, no tipover sensor errors - 30 - i pulled the sensor and tilted it to check, and it wont prime and throws the error code when its tipped too far, when its level, no error codes and the pump primes

i replaced the ecu, tipover sensor, relay box in the left side of the tail, and cut off the starter and kill switch housing to eliminate the possibility of shorts/bad connections in the switches. absolutely nothing has changed.

has anyone seen these things be symptomatic of a failed fuel pump?

if so why wouldnt the pump reprime when the kill switch is flipped back on?

i am not r6 familiar, this is my second one, the first one worked perfectly so i never had to work on it.

help that corrects the issues with this bike so it starts and runs will result in me paypaling you money, or sending you parts. i need this bike going
 

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The first thing that popped into my mind was the fuel cut off relay (which on most recent Yamaha's is a pretty complicated affair) but since you have already replaced it we can rule it out.
Fuel pump... an easy enough check: disconnect the 2P connector going into it and dig out your trusty multimeter. Set it to check resistance (ohm x 1 scale) and put the positive on the red/blue terminal and negative on the black terminal on the side of the pump.
Resistance should be between 0,2 and 3,0 ohm at "room temperature" (meaning between 15°C and 25°C). Any other reading is synonymous with a failed fuel pump.
Yamaha and Kawasaki fuel pumps are notoriously complicated and wouldn't be too surprised if it were the culprit.
If the fuel pump's sound... we are back at square one and I'll think of something else! :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
will test the fuel pump

as i have not downloaded a proper manual and am just on the fly with this i am not aware if this model has a dedicated fuel pump relay, or its part of the relay box....

there are only a few relays aside from the relay box, and i tried it with all of them pulled, no change, and swapped them, no change.

thanks for the fuel pump info. if the pump checks out as being good, i think i am just going to buy another bike to diagnose this one.
 

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The relay box is the only one working on the fuel pump.
These Yamaha manuals are pretty neat but just one look at the wiring diagram is enough to give me a mild migraine... :rolleyes:
 

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ok you say about the fuel pump priming after winding over well forget that.
start afresh check the plugs to see if there sparking
if theres a spark great
check to see if there dry if so no fuel or little fuel try pouring a little fuel down the throttle bodies/carb if it starts your back to fuel pump problems if not it could be a timing fault.
has it got an alarm fitted if so this might have got damaged in the accident and might not be letting the pump work or ignition work.
why not just wire the pump up to a switch then you can prime it yourself whilst winding it over if it starts you know 100% that its a pump fault.
what does the sidestand switch cut out on r6,s fuel or ignition??
 
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