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Discussion Starter #1
I installed a Sigma (Yoyodyne) slipper,OEM clutch plates (w/5000kms on them) and Motul 300V synthetic oil. The clutch started to slip under hard acceleration until it became so bad I had to come in and call it a day.

I replaced my worn OEM clutch plates with Hyperplates and a 50/50 blend of 100% synthetic and convention (Someone's suggestion) and no more slippage for the next 3 track days.

Prepping for the 4th track day the bike dealer recommended a Pre-blended semi-synthetic. My clutch started to slip after the first couple laps and got progressively worse very quickly.

My questions are, Has anyone else experienced similar and if so was it oil related? and if so what specific oil worked for you? or any other possible solutions.

Thanks.
 

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when you installed your clutch plates did you move your judder spring, washer, and associated fiber out one slot in the stack? if you didn't it's likely your judder washer dropped behind your drum during slip action and jammed your clutch partially disengaged.


with slipper clutches your stack order should be from inside to out:

standard friction
steel
larger ID friction with washer and judder spring
steel
standard friction
steel

etc... with your last friction plate turned one tooth differently in your basket (the shallow relief that none of the others use)



check that all of this is correct and get back to us!
 

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When using Slipper clutch, do not to use Hyperplates as it will wear fast..used OEM
 

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300V is a bit of a pig, especially the Competition line. Instead of mixing oils like a modern day alchemist get 7100. It works and costs considerably less than 300V.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I don't think I have a judder spring

Is it possible that my SP1 didn't come with a judder spring? I am the original owner. My Sigma calls for the OEM plates and I recall the parts guy telling me that the SP2 had one more plate.

Odd because this clutch was made for SP1 and SP2 and relies on the stock stack height for for proper operation.

I have:
6 identical steels
5 identical fibres
2 unique fibres

Does this seem OK, I have no judder disc. Any recos, do I just go and order a judder spring, is it an OEM part or is from the slipper clutch maker.

Oh, by the way I really appreciate you lending me your experience.
 

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Ronayers.com Fiche Desktop Motorcycle Honda 2002 RVT1000R CLUTCH

that's an expanded view of an sp2 clutch, though sp1 appears to be the same. you want parts 24,25 and 26. there should only be one unique fibre and that's the one that houses the judder. this plate MUST sit 3rd in line in your stack. if not you'll drop the judder washer behind your drum during slip.

everything else goes together the same as normal. the stock stack should work fine in your yoyo.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I heading into the dealer right now. I re-checked my 2000 Honda shop manual and it does call for The 2 unique fibres on either end w/ alternating steels/fibres between.

I think the clutch pack with the judder is for the new 2002+ models. I think this might be a Honda model update but since the slipper I have is the same model for 2000-2006 I'm sure there is no harm using the 2002+ set up inside.

I looks like I'm replacing 1 of my fibres for a spring judder and seat. The overall stack height might be the same with the addition of the spring to keep pressure on.

Does this make sense.

Thanks again.
 

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I installed a Sigma (Yoyodyne) slipper,OEM clutch plates (w/5000kms on them) and Motul 300V synthetic oil. The clutch started to slip under hard acceleration until it became so bad I had to come in and call it a day.

I replaced my worn OEM clutch plates with Hyperplates and a 50/50 blend of 100% synthetic and convention (Someone's suggestion) and no more slippage for the next 3 track days.

Prepping for the 4th track day the bike dealer recommended a Pre-blended semi-synthetic. My clutch started to slip after the first couple laps and got progressively worse very quickly.

My questions are, Has anyone else experienced similar and if so was it oil related? and if so what specific oil worked for you? or any other possible solutions.

Thanks.
I have a yoyodyne and used this to help install it:
Motorcycle Slipper Clutch Operation and Adjustment
 

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Yoyodyne Slipper is original from TSS from Europe. I have emailed to the manufacturer regarding using Slipper & Hyperplates. He said it is bad combination on it as it will wear fast or damage.
 

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Is it possible that my SP1 didn't come with a judder spring? I am the original owner. My Sigma calls for the OEM plates and I recall the parts guy telling me that the SP2 had one more plate.

Odd because this clutch was made for SP1 and SP2 and relies on the stock stack height for for proper operation.

I have:
6 identical steels
5 identical fibres
2 unique fibres

Does this seem OK, I have no judder disc. Any recos, do I just go and order a judder spring, is it an OEM part or is from the slipper clutch maker.

Oh, by the way I really appreciate you lending me your experience.
SP1's didn't come with a judder spring, seat, and larger ID fiber plate.
Those were introduced on the SP2's for smoother, less grabby clutch action. Just an YFI...
 

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dont kno much about rc51s but i know slippers are sometimes picky, if you have a hydraulic slave cylinder set up make sure your fluid isnt overfilled and swelling, and if you changed levers make sure theres no plunger adjustment pin keeping the clutch partially applied. hope this helps, i had the same prob with a duc, the lever had an adjustment on the plunger and it vibrated out due to no set screw.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I appreciate all the help here. I am just waiting for new plates ect. to arrive then I'm going to pay attention to all the comments posted here to get things right. Thanks again everyone!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for everyone's help. It was the lever! I installed CRG levers last year and the pin was a little cockeyed not allowing it to press fully. The bike ran great and was I going pretty good. I can't ever see me parting with this bike, I've owned it since new but a motard is in my future for the getting around this big city. Thanks again everyone.
 

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Thanks for everyone's help. It was the lever! I installed CRG levers last year and the pin was a little cockeyed not allowing it to press fully. The bike ran great and was I going pretty good. I can't ever see me parting with this bike, I've owned it since new but a motard is in my future for the getting around this big city. Thanks again everyone.
Congrads on finding the problem and fixing it..... However, I do have to say I think it's strange as shite, As You say, you rode a year with this CRG lever and had NO Problems..... NO Problems, no problems that is,... until you switched up on your "Type/brand" of engine oil in usage.... And now you say she's fixed at the lever/pin.:confused:

Did you by any change ever install the "Judder spring" just wondering, IF the SP1 doesn't come with one, I would have just left it out.;)


Good tip there lushbaugh-00'748:clapper

Peace Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I should mention that the first time the new slipper clutch started to show signs of slipping was much more subtle. But I had the OEM lever. I think the synthetic oil might not have been the best match for my situation and switching to the semi-blend was better. What I was experiencing after installing the CRGs (impoperly) was much more drastic, it was slipping under mild touch to the throttle. I assumed there was a connection to the first time and what was happening more recently since the new lever install.

I am now using Motul 5100, updated 2002+ OEM steel/fibres w/judder spring and it seems to be perfect since the lever/pin finding.

I was able run it on a dynamometer (Dynojet 250i) and absolutely no slippage.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Also, I didn't ride with the new levers for a year. I installed them last year, end of season. This year I've only had a few track days.
 

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... with your last friction plate turned one tooth differently in your basket (the shallow relief that none of the others use)
Just wondering why this is done... though I know the manual specifies this.

What issues can arise if the tabs of the last friction plate are put into the same slots as all the other plates?
 
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