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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've never installed brake lines before so I wanted to ask if there's anything to look out for or if it's pretty easy to do? I've got a track day in a week and want to make sure I do it right. The first track day I did with this bike my front brakes were pretty spongy so I figure the stainless lines and Vesrah pads should help quite a bit


And all the guys that have been giving me a hard time this is your chance to redeem yourself.
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Re: Any pointers on installing stainless brake lines up front? (Rotten Randy)

Takes 5-10 minutes per side max to remove & install the new ones & maybe 10 minutes to bleed them both (even without a vacuum pump)

Simplest mod on the bike


Key points are to make sure you have a way of catching all the brake fluid & lots of shop towels etc as it will wreak havoc on your paint & brake pads if it gets on either.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: Any pointers on installing stainless brake lines up front? (Rotten Randy)

I have installed Galfer SS lines on my bike. The fittings are slightly bent so that the lines would not rub hard against the air duct when the handlebars are turned full left. Keep in mind how the stock banjo fittings look. Install the SS banjo fittings the same way. The bends lead towards the right, away from the air duct
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Re: Any pointers on installing stainless brake lines up front? (RicardoA)

Yup, just be careful of the fluid, otherwise real easy and straight forward. Just make sure to rout them so they don't rub, and have plenty of slack for movement. Bleed them good, ride it easy, bleed it again (just to make sure) and your off.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Re: (Rotten Randy)

how much did the pads cost?
I have heard the hrc pads are the way to go, they are almost $200
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Re: (wildchilds74)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I figure the stainless lines and Vesrah pads should help quite a bit </TD></TR></TABLE>

I ran russel brake lines, and vesrah race pads on my R6, and they work great..of course these are the only aftermarket lines & pads I have ever used.

But like LDH said it is the easiest mod to do...just becareful with that brake fluid, & seeting(sp) those pads.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Re: (wildchilds74)

The Vesrah RJL's are $75 and the super RJL's are $150-
I bought the regular RJL's as they said that the supers have a super sharp bite to them when you clamp down real hard. I wanted something a little more progressive.


Modified by Rotten Randy at 9:27 PM 8/18/2005
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Could you use the dot 4 brake fluid from your local autoparts store. Or would a specified motorcycle brake fluid be needed from a bike shop??
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Re: (FryDaddy)

I stopped using expensive motorcycle specific brake fluids several years back. All I use now is Valvoline SynPower brake fluid. The stuff is great, honestly outperforms many of the more expensive brake fluids I have used and/or tested over the years plus you can get it at any local auto parts store

 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks. I walked in Wal.Mart the other day and looked at the different types of brake fluids on the shelf. Cause I need to change my brake fluid (all dirty looking - like a hooker :) ) They basically all seem to be similar except the ones that may be synthetic.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Re: (LDH)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LDH »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">All I use now is Valvoline SynPower brake fluid.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the tip LDH.

Randy, don't drink the brake fluid! OK, here's a real tip. Torque the banjo bolts to the recommended brake line torque, not the RC-51 factory torque.

Also, I like to use a syringe ($1.99 at Target) and clear tubing to suck out the old fluid, no more Mitey-Vac for me!
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
now i need to get a steel braided clutch line....

did the front and rear lines and the fluid is still nice and clear...

the clutch is dark as shyt.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Re: (tutzo51)

I've noticed that the clutch fluid in my Duc S4R gets really dirty. Where's the contamination come from? Haven't noticed the fluid in the RC getting dirty yet but I haven't owned it for more than a month.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Re: (Rotten Randy)

Fluid moving through the OEM "rubber" lines. Change out the clutch line to an aftermarket SS or kevlar line & it will stay clear MUCH MUCH MUCH longer
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Re: (Rotten Randy)

When subjected to heat, brake fluid darkens toward a charcoal/black color (not necessarily a bad thing), as opposed to water-saturated brake fluid, which darkens toward a brown/rust color (which IS a bad thing).
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Re: (clarkandgrilli)

Well I finished it up. I used Goodridge lines and only one of the banjos had a bend in it. I used the stock fender brake line mounts but not the other two on the fork clamp. I couldn't use one of them anyway as it was used for the stock brake line splitter. Thanks for everyone's help
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Re: (RicardoA)

One thing though is that I didn't torque the fittings down as there were no specs on the package or their website
I just tightened them down well
 
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