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Discussion Starter #1
OK, here's my spec's...

Verticle Cylinder Openers...I=.004 E=.005 Closers...I=.003 E=.001
Horizontal Cylinder Openers...I=.005 E=.005 Closers...I=.002 E=.001

Right now I'm thinking I should adjust the horizontal intake opener (.005) and the verticle intake closer(.003)and everything else is good??? No? If you convert the factory specs to inches it gives all openers .002-.006 and all closers .000-.0078. According to these specs, I'm in there across the board. Just want to get your inputs on this or what you would do?

**If you change a closer shim on a valve will it throw off the opener clearance or should it remain unaffected?

**On openers and closers, if you need to tighten up or reduce the clearance, you need a 'thicker' shim correct? And this applies to openers and closers??
 
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Re: (NC Rick)

How many miles on the bike and how many since last adjustment? I might tighten up the closers (and yes, with thicker shims, which won't change the opener clearance) but technically, you're in the range. LT Snyder recommends .000"-.002" on the closers and .004" on the openers; before leaving them as they are: Did you check, spin the motor around once, and then re-check?
 
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Discussion Starter #4
6000...first adjustment. I spun the motor and did several checks. Got the same numbers.
 
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Re: (galaxy)

That's awesome for the first check. I would have expected more drift during break-in. Given that, I'm with NC Rick... go ahead and leave them. You're in spec. The closers are more critical, for obvious reasons, so you may want to spot check the horizontal cylinder in a couple thousand miles (just 'cause it's easier to get to) but my
it looks good for now.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Re: (DesmoBob)

I agree; leave them alone. The specs have quite a range and you are close to perfect. Closers may be tightened up by .001 by replacing the collets (1/2 rings) since they get pounded and often break, but I would leave them alone if they aren't broken.
 
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