'06 SM610S First Impression - Page 42 - Speedzilla Motorcycle Message Forums
 
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post #821 of 915 (permalink) Old 04-19-2007, 10:56 PM
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Ben -
I got the cam from FBF but its a Husky part. Came in a box with Husky logo ... He had it in stock a few months ago when I got it and may still have more.

2006 Husky SM610
2004 KTM 300 EXC
2005 YZ125
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post #822 of 915 (permalink) Old 04-20-2007, 09:28 AM
 
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Originally Posted by Aussie SM610 View Post
my bike has hand guards and crash bobbins on it so every thing else is protected excet the engine casing
Cheers
The DRZ has chronic case breaking problems (the only part of the bike not built like a tank) and you can get stick on alloy case protectors that do a good job. Not sure if someone does them for the husky TE610, but you would think so...
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post #823 of 915 (permalink) Old 04-25-2007, 12:41 PM
 
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Hey Neil the TE570 cam is more aggressive than the TE610, smae capacity but the 570 is/was an open enduro machine where as the TE610 was always a road bike. So it is more aggressive, but still not as agressive as the TC cam.
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post #824 of 915 (permalink) Old 04-25-2007, 05:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Highpower View Post
Ride Report - just installed 570 cam and Ferracci 12.5:1 piston

Finally got everything together and went for a test drive. The engine ran very smooth and I'm not sure I even have to touch the jetting (185M, 45P, Needle-5th pos). Even the idle was perfect. The starter did have a tougher time turning it over, but not very noticable since it fired up right away. Part of that could be because I had to modify (file) the stock decompressor to get it flush with the cam.

Going down the road, throttle response was great and not really more noticable vibration. And strangely I did not (at first) notice a lot more power or torque. That is of course until it gets over 5K rpm ... then it becomes a different machine. It really wanted to rev. I had to hold it back since I want the new rings to seat before I go flogging it. But it definitely makes a lot of new power up top. I like the sound better too. I haven't had it in traffic yet, but I honestly think the engine runs smoother now. No hint of the stutter that never seemed to go away. Note I have TPS unplugged.

Noticed a slight oil leak around the bottom union of the case-to-head oil line where the Banjo bolt is. It only starts leaking at high RPM. I checked it and it needs new copper crush washers which I will replace tonight.

Could you give me a material list for this upgrade? I think I have referenced all the gaskets, cams, piston, rings, etc. But I want to make sure I didn't miss anything....THX!!!!!

2006 Husqvarna SM610
2007 KTM XC-W 400
2001 Honda GL 1800
1980 Yamaha SR 500
1972 Kawasaki G4TR "Trail Boss"
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post #825 of 915 (permalink) Old 04-26-2007, 02:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BadMotoWeazal View Post
Could you give me a material list for this upgrade? I think I have referenced all the gaskets, cams, piston, rings, etc. But I want to make sure I didn't miss anything....THX!!!!!
Ferracci Piston kit - it includes rings, clips and new wrist pin
Stage-1 Husky cam Ferracci PN: F40600
Gaskets: head, base, waterpump
New copper crush washers for oil hose fitting
Locktite or liquid gasket maker to seal the rocker arm housing.
The shop manual
Piston ring compressor
A bearing puller might make life easier when pulling the cam bearings

A few things I learned from this ...

Remember to look at the decompressor before and after you install the new cam, make sure the pin retracts flush (or below) the shaft when it is fully open (weight all the way out). Mine didn't and I had to file it - not sure if this was a defect but I plan to ask Ferracci about this. Has anyone else had the problem with this cam? If you do modify the dempressor be very careful because if you remove too much material the pin (bump) will not protrude enough and you won't be able to start your bike because of too much compression.

Also make sure you never lose true TDC when you do the job, since there are no marks that distinguish true TDC from the top of the exhaust stroke - If you forget where it is there is a 50% chance you're timing will be 180 out. I found out the hard way ...

I think the manual says to tighten the oil union pipe (braided oil hose) fittings to 14.5lbs I'm pretty sure if you do this you will strip the head or case and be in a world of hurt. Just use new copper washers and go a little bit past snug and they should be fine. It's better to be too loose than to strip your case.

You will need a piston ring compressing tool - I can't imagine doing it without it. Most automotive ones are too tall and won't fit, so use one that's designed for motors with removable jugs. This was something I overlooked since I am used to rebuilding two strokes where you can use your fingers. This is a two person job.

Go slow. Everything comes apart without to much effort, so if you are forcing something excessively you probably missed a bolt. The head and rocker arm cover are over-engineered and there are bolts of all kinds in all places holding them together.

Post a report on the work and the results. Have fun!

2006 Husky SM610
2004 KTM 300 EXC
2005 YZ125
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post #826 of 915 (permalink) Old 04-26-2007, 02:19 PM
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Thanks Higher-Power.

2006 Husqvarna SM610
2007 KTM XC-W 400
2001 Honda GL 1800
1980 Yamaha SR 500
1972 Kawasaki G4TR "Trail Boss"
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post #827 of 915 (permalink) Old 04-30-2007, 02:05 AM
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Anyone a real jetting guru out there? Just have an academic question for you: If I increase the compression and add duration and lift to the cam, what does that mean to the jetting?

I have not changed my jetting going from stock 11:1 to 12.5:1 (and stage 1 cam), I have no problems with the previous jetting. In fact it seems to run a bit smoother. Currently using:
185M
45P
JD needle at 5th pos
2 turns out on the fuel screw

It runs smooth and strong, but pops a lot on decel. I have changed needle to 6th and it gets rid of some of the popping, but loses some snap. Also a lot of carbon when running 6th.

I am a bit surprised that I didn't have to re-do all my jetting when I did the piston/cam mod. Am I missing something here? Or is this to be expected? ...

2006 Husky SM610
2004 KTM 300 EXC
2005 YZ125
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post #828 of 915 (permalink) Old 04-30-2007, 03:29 AM
 
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A little popping on decel is not unusual. In theory, a higher compression piston would increase the vacuum signal through the carb allowing you to run a little leaner jetting, but this is offset by the new cam if it has more overlap, which it probably does.

So it sounds like you're in the ball park with your current settings... maybe try 2.5 turns out on the fuel screw, or even a 48 pilot with the needle in the 5th position. Other combinations could include a 180 main, 6th position on the needle with the 45 pilot, or a 180 main, 5th position on the needle and a 48 pilot. The pilot, needle and main circuits overlap so a little experimentation to get the most out of your new cam and piston would be time well spent. Let us know how it works out.
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post #829 of 915 (permalink) Old 04-30-2007, 03:43 AM
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Thanks dp. That's what I thought. Seems to run great. I will experiment with the fuel screw opening, but I think I'm dialed in. Just wanted a sanity check - since the piston and cam made a big difference I thought the jetting might need tweaking. But I am thinkgin I am close. Lovin this bike more than ever ... I will keep you posted on any changes

2006 Husky SM610
2004 KTM 300 EXC
2005 YZ125
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post #830 of 915 (permalink) Old 04-30-2007, 05:18 AM
 
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Highpower... another mod you might want to consider is the Flo Commander velocity stack with adjustable pilot and main air screws. I have one of these on my bike and I can fine tune the jetting on the fly with the remote adjustment kit. Flow Commander 2000

They list an application for the husky 610, it has a 63mm diameter and I think it works pretty good. I recently upgraded from the 61mm to the 63mm with the remote adjuster and heat barrier coating.
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post #831 of 915 (permalink) Old 04-30-2007, 07:28 AM
 
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Jetting is a fickle thing. Going down to a 180 main jet is probably worth a try, as with the hotter cams you will no doubt have significantly larger duration, leading to greater amount of filling capacity which will still be significantly greater than the amount of leakage you get from the increased amount of overlap. Couple this with the stronger signal from the bump in compression and leaning out at WOT could be a good thing.

But in the end you're best just having a few runs at different altitude and doing a bit of trial and error to sort out where your jetting should be, and seeing what changes in altitude and temperature do to it. If you were real serious you could do some dyno runs at different throttle position and get them to whack an oxygen sensor in your pipe and jet to suit, but where would then fun in that be?
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post #832 of 915 (permalink) Old 04-30-2007, 03:08 PM
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Any 2007 SMR 610 impressions?
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post #833 of 915 (permalink) Old 05-01-2007, 10:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Just Riding Along View Post
Any 2007 SMR 610 impressions?
Ok so they're the same over here.
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post #834 of 915 (permalink) Old 05-13-2007, 02:22 AM
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Experimenting with Blue JD needle

Went from the Red needle (6th clip pos) to Blue needle (4th clip pos). 500' above sea level, temp is about 75 deg and very humid. From the short ride I just took I really like the new setting. The Red needle at the 5th pos. was always too lean, and 6th was too rich. The Blue needle at the 4th clip position feels just right. Seems to pull harder through the mid-range. I will see how it does during the week when the temp increases.

My new jetting:
45 pilot
Blue JD needle (4th pos)
185 Main
1 3/4 turns on fuel screw

Bike Mods:
opened up airbox
PN-PNP carb mod
12.5:1 piston
stage 1 cam

So don't be afraid to play with the Blue JD needle. If you are running the Red needle in pos # x, try running the Blue in pos # x-2, and if that's too lean try x-1. Post your results! Jetting is fun and it pisses off the neighbors.

2006 Husky SM610
2004 KTM 300 EXC
2005 YZ125

Last edited by Highpower; 05-13-2007 at 03:44 AM.
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post #835 of 915 (permalink) Old 05-15-2007, 04:18 PM Thread Starter
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Stalling

I'm having some issues with bogging and stalling.

I have a new fuel tank and new petcock but nothing else has changed.

The bike will start to bog down while riding and then sputter to a stop. It will restart after it sits for several minutes and then be fine for another few miles, then starts all over again.

I checked my carb vent lines and found a couple that had been helf melted by the exhaust. I replaced them thinking I had found the issue, but it's still flooding out on me.

Any ideas on what to check next?

Thanks


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post #836 of 915 (permalink) Old 05-15-2007, 05:42 PM
 
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If nothing else has changed, there are 3 things to check.

1. Make sure your fuel lines are routed and connected properly.

2. It could be a venting problem with the new tank, causing a fuel delivery problem. Try opening up the fuel tank cap next time it stalls, to see if vacuum pressure has formed in the tank. If so, the bike should start immediately after opening up the tank. Check the tank vents and fuel cap to make sure they are clear and venting.

3. Another possibility is that your new tank has some crap in it and its clogging the petcock filter/screen. You might want to check that too.

If the bike is in fact flooding, check your float level in the carb and make sure the needle/seat float valve is working properly. Debris in the needle/seat can cause it to stick open. Also, if the float bowl was recently removed, the float could be stuck on the side of the bowl, causing it not to float.

DP

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave View Post
I'm having some issues with bogging and stalling.

I have a new fuel tank and new petcock but nothing else has changed.

The bike will start to bog down while riding and then sputter to a stop. It will restart after it sits for several minutes and then be fine for another few miles, then starts all over again.

I checked my carb vent lines and found a couple that had been helf melted by the exhaust. I replaced them thinking I had found the issue, but it's still flooding out on me.

Any ideas on what to check next?

Thanks
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post #837 of 915 (permalink) Old 05-15-2007, 07:43 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks a ton DP, I'll start investigating.


Quote:
Originally Posted by dukepilot View Post
If nothing else has changed, there are 3 things to check.

1. Make sure your fuel lines are routed and connected properly.

2. It could be a venting problem with the new tank, causing a fuel delivery problem. Try opening up the fuel tank cap next time it stalls, to see if vacuum pressure has formed in the tank. If so, the bike should start immediately after opening up the tank. Check the tank vents and fuel cap to make sure they are clear and venting.

3. Another possibility is that your new tank has some crap in it and its clogging the petcock filter/screen. You might want to check that too.

If the bike is in fact flooding, check your float level in the carb and make sure the needle/seat float valve is working properly. Debris in the needle/seat can cause it to stick open. Also, if the float bowl was recently removed, the float could be stuck on the side of the bowl, causing it not to float.

DP


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post #838 of 915 (permalink) Old 05-21-2007, 02:24 AM
 
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Sm610

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Originally Posted by Just Riding Along View Post
Any 2007 SMR 610 impressions?
Got my Motard Friday,.I'm very happy The only bad thing I have to say is,..Man the seat is hard as a rock,....Heres a utube vid,.YouTube - My new 2007 Husqvarna SM610
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post #839 of 915 (permalink) Old 05-21-2007, 04:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wackyd View Post
Got my Motard Friday,.I'm very happy The only bad thing I have to say is,..Man the seat is hard as a rock,....Heres a utube vid,.YouTube - My new 2007 Husqvarna SM610
The "World Champion Forever" decal sure is good looking. I may have to order one for my 2006. The seat seems really hard because your riding with cruisers. It is punishing you for going so slow. Since the seat seams to be the #1 complaint with the bike there are quite a few options, from a new seat to a pad.

Congrats on the new bike.
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post #840 of 915 (permalink) Old 05-21-2007, 11:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wackyd View Post
Got my Motard Friday,.I'm very happy The only bad thing I have to say is,..Man the seat is hard as a rock,....Heres a utube vid,.YouTube - My new 2007 Husqvarna SM610
Had mine for over a year now with close to 5500 miles on it. I used to hate the seat, then I got a KTM for offroad racing. Now the Husky feels like a cushy lazi-boy.

2006 Husky SM610
2004 KTM 300 EXC
2005 YZ125
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