|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|04-17-2014 01:14 PM|
Got the bike back from the dyno the other day. Last year it had 47 hp and this year with the minor motor build it has 52hp. Happy with that gain.
Fit the new clamps up yesterday. Came out awesome. Very happy with these.
|04-11-2014 07:49 AM|
|coldburn||Just awesome rebuild, this should be sticky thread.|
|04-02-2014 06:17 PM|
|G2G||I saw the pics of the triples on his FB page and knew they had to be yours. Looking good dude.|
|04-02-2014 03:55 AM|
Final part got delivered today. The photos don't do these justice. The detail work is awesome. I can't thank Mike at Diamondback Designs enough.
|04-01-2014 05:09 PM|
|AKDMA||Nice! I finally just got another one myself (WR426). I'm tempted to just leave it alone, but seeing this makes me wonder what it could be.|
|04-01-2014 04:40 PM|
and I agree one off machine work is more hassle then it's worth and that's why most guys won't even mess with it. every one wants cheap stuff and doesn't want to pay for time.
|04-01-2014 04:01 PM|
Originally Posted by TLRSKUNK View Post
I found out about 1/2hour ago that they were delivered to the shop. I'll get a few photos and toss it up when I get home tonight.
|04-01-2014 01:44 PM|
|TLRSKUNK||That really isn't a bad price for a set of triples cut to your spec.|
|04-01-2014 04:13 AM|
|union||I get a break because he sponsors me but a custom one off upper and lower to your specs with no stem would run around 700.|
|03-31-2014 08:56 PM|
That's what was done to mine. Only thing I hated about it was the fact that it really made the chain a PITA to adjust.
and I know the SMR is already lower. Dave Behrand at FBI did his suspension build(as well as my 560SMR)
what did a set of triples cost you?
|03-31-2014 04:15 PM|
Originally Posted by TLRSKUNK View Post
The clamps this year will be adjustable between 4 and 6mm. I also have a set from last year that are 5-7mm and the stock clamps are 14-16mm. I'll have options depending on where I go.
Last year in the original build we put the swingarm in the bridgeport and slotted out the axle guide by about 10mm.
|03-31-2014 02:06 PM|
Hot damn SMR porn.
Buddy just built a sick 2013 SMR. Had the suspension lowered an inch when he had it built as well.
Now what offset are you running on the triples and what are they costing you to get cut?
I had 12mm triples on my 560 and the swingarm notched to shorten it an inch Thing turned on a dime.
|03-30-2014 11:47 PM|
Got a photo from my machinist today
|03-30-2014 11:44 PM|
Fired it up today
Heat cycle smr - YouTube
|03-30-2014 11:42 PM|
Picked up the motor this morning and got to work when I got back to the shop.
DIdnt finish it because I didnt have my bar risers. They were with my machinist. Luckily he sent them to me and they were waiting for me when I got home. Bars on tomorrow and hopefully Ill have some fuel for it by the end of the week and Ill be able to fire it up.
|03-30-2014 11:41 PM|
So here I am. Busted up ankle and the beginning of the season in jeopardy depending on what the Dr says between today and tomorrow. I figure theres something I can do. When I ordered my brake pads they sent along a sanding block to scuff up the rotors. Its not something Ive done in the past and didnt consider it until they sent the block with the pads. So today I go at it.
With the help of Brady this time
Its a bit unsettling when you realize what really stops these bikes. Most people think its the giant rotor but that is just a heat sink. its the six little 6mm bolts with a dab of loctite that are the stopping power.
Picked up my secret weapon yesterday
Its amazing well probably not but how difficult it is to launch a bike at my staggering height of 5'6. Its only made more difficult in motocross style boots since they restrict freedom of movement a lot more then standard road race boots. Currently I have to find the lowest point on the seat just to get a toe to scrape the ground. Im sure its pretty pathetic looking, even mroe so that a lot of the guys I race against can flatfoot at the grid.
New lower seat Its about 1/2 inch lower then the stock seat. Hopefully it makes launching the bike a bit easier
Comparison of both.
My next options if this doesnt do the trick is to ride on the seat pan or as suggested by my friend take the seat off and wrap a blanket around the subframe
|03-30-2014 11:39 PM|
Not a lot to show but the motor has been dropped off to the builder today.
The plan is a high compression piston and a lightened and balanced crank. The head was in the plan as well but I dont have the money for it this year so its going to have to wait until next time. Ive asked my guy to take photos of the progress so hopefully Ill have some good stuff to share.
My engine builder sent me some photos of the progress.
Anyway here is the redone crank.
A couple more engine shots were sent to me today. Should be picking it up this weekend.
More engine. Im putting these up as I get them.
Nice slipper shot
New high compression piston
Engine is finished. Here is the final round of photos.
|03-30-2014 11:35 PM|
Today was one of my least favorite things to work on.
The caliper didnt need a rebuild but I wanted to change over the fluid.
Sounds easy enough but look closely at the caliper
There is no bleeder. I cant do a banjo bleeder either because of clearance issues.
So the hose comes off.
Time to push the pucks back in to get as much fluid out as you can.
Cycle it through a few times and then let any left over drain out
Time to clean up the caliper
No photo but you can also blow all the remaining fluid out of the master and brake line.
Now for the bitch of the system. Refilling the caliper.
With the brake pads installed blow air into the caliper to extend the pucks.
I dont have a vacuum bleeder or any other fancy brake tools so this takes a bit of time a patients. I do have an idea for next time that should make it easier
Now with the caliper full or close to full of new fluid reattach the brake hose and master.
Push the pucks in to force the fluid back up through the line and into the master cylinder.
If all has gone right then all that should be needed is a final bleed when the system is back on the bike. For me this will happen some time in March.
|03-30-2014 11:34 PM|
Did the front end this weekend. Took as many photos as I could but its a bit of a pain considering some of the steps come close to requiring three hands.
Here we go
Front end off the bike from the previous break down
You should have taken a ride height measurement before this point but if you didnt this is your last chance to get the reference measurement so you can return the bike back to the geometry it had.
Forks on the bench and ready for a service
Document the settings
These forks have a pressurized bladder similar to a shock
These are twin chamber forks so loosen the inner chamber but dont completely back it out before taking the cartridge out
Now for the outer chamber.
You should now be able to slide the outer tube down
Now back out the the lower bolt
Now youll have to compress the spring so the metering rod sticks through the lower end of the fork and use the cartridge holding tool to hold it in place.
Now compress the spring and pull out the tool. Be careful here because if you slip it could fire the cartridge out of the top of the fork.
One free cartridge
Now remove the dust seal and snap ring for the oil seal.
You should now be able to slide hammer the forks apart
On to the cartridge.
If you loosened the inner chamber before removing the cartridge from the fork then this come apart easy.
Remove the compression valving
Time to go to the wash tank
Clean and ready for inspection
Lay everything out to be sure you have it all. Forks generally have pairs of everything
Put the rebound valving back into the chamber
Fill with oil and bleed
Install the compression valving and pressurize
When done your cartridge should look like this
On to the outer tubes
Some seal grease
Inner tube ready for new seals
O-ring for a travel indicator
Time for seals and bushings
A little grease in the outer tube to help the bushings and seals slide into place
Drive the seals in using a seal driver and a soft faced hammer
Ready to go
Assembly is pretty much the opposite what was done to disassemble
Now put a specified amount of oil in the outer chamber
Close the tube and set the clickers
|03-30-2014 11:33 PM|
This is pretty straight forward. Pretty much just pulling everything off the swingarm, cleaning it, greasing the bearings and putting it back together.
Here it is in all its glory
Everything off with the link
It didnt show well but luckily KTM used captured need bearings in most spots. The smaller of the three was not a captured bearing so it required special attention so the needles were not lost in the cleaning process.
In the sink and ready to get cleaned
A little never seize on the chain adjustment bolts
Reinstalling the link and plastic parts
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