Shindengen FH012AA Regulator / Rectifier Install - Speedzilla Motorcycle Message Forums
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post #1 of 66 (permalink) Old 07-16-2011, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
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Shindengen FH012AA Regulator / Rectifier Install

Note: If for any reason you are not seeing the images that go with this post, you can view a simple version with images here
Note: The FH012AA regulator that I installed back in 2011 and referenced below has been superceded by the FH020AA which is the correct part to purchase now


After discovering how hot the stock regulator/rectifier runs, it's lack of reliability and possibility of battery fire upon failure I bought a Shindengen Mosfet FH020AA regulator/ rectifier kit. They are easy to find on Ebay, I bought mine from this guy:


https://www.ebay.com/sch/jasonmotoel...l?_nkw=fh020aa

Search his store for FH020AA. I bought the universal kit which came with the gray and black Furukawa connectors, but if you end up getting an r/r by itself, just goto this website and get a connector kit:

R/R Connectors or EasternBeaver main webpage

The Mosfet design is superior to the stock SCR shunt design and more reliable since it runs cooler. Plus the Furukawa connectors are less prone to corrosion problems. It's also smaller and lighter, but the weight is offset by the adapter plate I used to mount it.



I started started by disconnecting the battery..VERY IMPORTANT!!

Next I made an adapter plate out of 1/4 aluminum with 9mm M6.0x1 Timesert thread inserts. Since the r/r isn't coming on/off the bike very much you could probably just tap the aluminum M6.0x1 but be careful not to over-torque.

Adapter Plate Plans - PDF Version Click here: http://airlinebrats.com/rc51/rectifi...AA_adapter.pdf
If you want to print and trace it be sure turn off page scaling when printing. The hole pattern is what is important, the outer shape of the plate isn't.








Since the thread inserts extend beyond the adapter plate, I had to very slightly enlarge the holes in the subframe as well as the holes in the FH012AA, using an "F" drill, but a round file would work just fine too.



Once I got it mounted I cut off the stock alternator connector.



I then used 14GA wire to extend the three yellow alternator leads, crimped & soldered the leads and inserted them into the connector. I doubled up two layers of heat-shrink tubing to insulate and protect each solder joint. I don't want these wires getting exposed and arc-welding to the frame! I couldn't find yellow wire so I wrapped each wire with yellow tape - just for identification.







The kit includes wire and leads to run the DC output straight to the battery, but I elected to solder them directly to the existing wire harness for a cleaner install. The stock R/R output connector has two positive power leads (red wires) and two ground leads (green wires) plus a control wire (black/white wire) which is not used anymore with this modification. The two wires of each color are joined together elsewhere in the harness and I assume are double wires from the R/R only to increase amperage capability.

I cut the stock charging connector. CAUTION: You WILL get sparks if you do this while the battery is still connected - the red wires are HOT to the battery at all times regardless of key position.



I soldered together each of the red wires with the red 10 gauge wire from the FH012AA's connector, then also did the same thing for the bikes green wires to the FH012AA's black wire.





Afterwards I reconnected the battery. Started up the bike, then using my voltmeter made sure the system was charging the battery ok. My A123 battery normally shows 13.35 volts, and starting the bike seems to take NOTHING out of these batteries, so when the bike was revved up the system voltage only went up slightly to 13.8 or so. It just didn't need much charging.

Last edited by 9hondas; 09-08-2019 at 08:56 PM. Reason: Update with new FH020AA part number, fix links etc
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post #2 of 66 (permalink) Old 07-16-2011, 08:16 PM
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great little write up!

here's a link that would help w/ diagnosis and has a little more technical info
http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-trip...r-upgrade.html


i HIGHLY recommend everyone to do this little swap!

00rc

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post #3 of 66 (permalink) Old 07-17-2011, 12:45 AM
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I'm sold! great write up.
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post #4 of 66 (permalink) Old 07-17-2011, 03:14 AM
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This is a great write-up. My only question is concerning the Yellow Alternator leads. Does it matter in which order they go into the connector?

Fast bike slow rider
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post #5 of 66 (permalink) Old 07-17-2011, 04:15 AM Thread Starter
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This is a great write-up. My only question is concerning the Yellow Alternator leads. Does it matter in which order they go into the connector?
Nope its 3 phase ac.
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post #6 of 66 (permalink) Old 07-17-2011, 12:25 PM
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+2 on the great write-up, thanks!


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post #7 of 66 (permalink) Old 07-17-2011, 01:26 PM
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It should be a good idea to put some thermal paste between the heatsink and the Regulator/rectifier, just like a processor/heatsink of your pc.
Great write up, Thanks!!
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post #8 of 66 (permalink) Old 07-17-2011, 11:10 PM
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Awesome wright up !!!!

Great looking job, and great details. THANKS !!! Hard to pass this mod up. Be a great time to up grade battery too at the same time. Hoovy

2005 RC51 Sato pipes, rear sets & Exhaust hangers,Penske Rear shock, Turn One air box & Snorkle, MR hugger, dash & front fender, Hotbodies undertail, proton flushmounts, carbon V cowl, Galfer lines, Scotts Filter, Heli Bars, PWR com III, Custom HID projector lights.
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post #9 of 66 (permalink) Old 07-18-2011, 04:50 PM
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Grade A work for sure!!!

Don't worry your dogs/cats too are safe ...FOR NOW
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post #10 of 66 (permalink) Old 07-18-2011, 05:52 PM
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great stuff, a enthusiast of the 51 for sure

i will take a plate and prewire please

I can make you one out of carbon fiber for free if you like, might help bring you weight down some and give a better heat transfer





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post #11 of 66 (permalink) Old 07-18-2011, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by mrgrn View Post
great stuff, a enthusiast of the 51 for sure

i will take a plate and prewire please

I can make you one out of carbon fiber for free if you like, might help bring you weight down some and give a better heat transfer

UUhhm, what makes you think carbon gives a good thermal conductivity ???
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post #12 of 66 (permalink) Old 07-19-2011, 03:44 AM Thread Starter
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great stuff, a enthusiast of the 51 for sure

i will take a plate and prewire please

I can make you one out of carbon fiber for free if you like, might help bring you weight down some and give a better heat transfer
Thanks for the kind words Mark and everyone else. I'm just glad to be able to contribute something worthwhile to the group since I've received some pretty sage advice from members here.

It wouldn't be too hard to look into water jetting a batch of parts out of plate and drilling/inserting them, but I'm kinda busy with another project for the bike. On this one I am making multiples as I go along. I'm not going to say more now, since I want to work at my own pace and also make sure it comes out as planned.

Regarding the CF I appreciate the offer, but I think for this application aluminum is best. If you look at this chart:
Thermal Conductivity of some common Materials and Gases
You'll see aluminum has excellent thermal conductivity, 250 W/(m.K) and only gold and copper are better.

There's no specific listing for carbon fiber / epoxy panel, but carbon by itself is only 1.7 W/(m.K), epoxy is only 0.35 W/(m.K) and fiberglass is even less at .04 W/(m.K). Must be why Home Depot sells fiberglass insulation!

Anyway, assuming an entire CF panel somehow maintained the highest thermal conductivity of carbon itself, aluminum would still transfer heat 147 times better.

To get it lighter I'm thinking that eventually I'll pull the plate off and mill some more metal out of it. Maybe cut fins in the backside of it to take out weight and also increase the cooling surface area.
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post #13 of 66 (permalink) Old 07-19-2011, 03:08 PM
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After reading this thread, I'm afraid my RC will burst into flames. Another mod to the list.. lol. I feel like my RC is a bookie, constantly demanding money . 9hondas- You could just drill as many holes as you feel comfortable with into that mount for weight reduction/cooling, it looks pretty sturdy. Thanks for the detailed writeup.
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post #14 of 66 (permalink) Old 07-19-2011, 03:28 PM
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With how thick the Aluminum plate is i would just cut out the center and leave it as an open circle. you would get air flow on both sides that way.
I did this in paint real quick to show what i was saying.
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post #15 of 66 (permalink) Old 07-19-2011, 04:31 PM
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Quote:
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With how thick the Aluminum plate is i would just cut out the center and leave it as an open circle. you would get air flow on both sides that way.
I did this in paint real quick to show what i was saying.
I ordered mine yesterday and happen to have some 1/4" aluminum stock laying around so I'm ready to go. Just a couple of questions? Does the FHO12AA sit flush on the aluminum plate? The reason I ask because the 9mm M6.0x1 Timesert thread inserts extend out the front of the plate. I assume that the mounting holes in the FHO12AA is big enough to accommodate this. Q2: If the FHO12AA sits flush on the plate wouldn't you what more contact surface to increase thermal conductivity with the mounting plate? Oops Q3: Or is the hole in the center just to save some weight?
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post #16 of 66 (permalink) Old 07-19-2011, 04:57 PM
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I was suggesting the hole in the center to shave weight. but the aluminum block would act as a thermal conductor. but if the Regulator doesn't need the extra heat transfer why add all the weight back to it?
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post #17 of 66 (permalink) Old 07-19-2011, 06:22 PM Thread Starter
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I ordered mine yesterday and happen to have some 1/4" aluminum stock laying around so I'm ready to go. Just a couple of questions? Does the FHO12AA sit flush on the aluminum plate? The reason I ask because the 9mm M6.0x1 Timesert thread inserts extend out the front of the plate. I assume that the mounting holes in the FHO12AA is big enough to accommodate this. Q2: If the FHO12AA sits flush on the plate wouldn't you what more contact surface to increase thermal conductivity with the mounting plate? Oops Q3: Or is the hole in the center just to save some weight?
The 9mm timeserts do extend into the FH012AA. I used the 9mm ones because they were the shortest ones I had, but they do "lock" it into position. They also extend into the subframe holes (after enlargement too) where the thread-clips are removed.

Here's a more detailed picture of the enlarged hole (slot) in the FH012AA:




Also, I've realized our discussion about heatsinking this unit may be a waste of time.

Here's a picture of the backside of the unit:



It turns out that the aluminum plate on the back is actually recessed lower than the surrounding cast frame.



So that means when the unit is bolted to the adapter plate, there's an 0.17" air gap between the back plate and the adapter plate. The only direct contact heat transfer will occur where the darker color frame meets the adapter plate. Not much!

So TLRSKUNK's idea about hogging out the middle for better airflow is probably a good idea.
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post #18 of 66 (permalink) Old 07-19-2011, 06:53 PM
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Thanks for the detailed info and pictures, it really helps.

Iceman
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post #19 of 66 (permalink) Old 07-19-2011, 08:19 PM
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I just had a total "light bulb" moment making the idea total overkill and possibly a waste of time, but what the heck.
OK here it is: You see that thin back plate in the back-round pic, looks like the back of the old unit, why not trim that piece (if it's thick enough) to fit and make up the .017" difference on the new unit making the 1/4" aluminum mounting plate a functional heat sink. As long as you used enough thermal paste of course.
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post #20 of 66 (permalink) Old 07-19-2011, 08:27 PM
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From what i know the new style regs don't put off near as much heat in the way that they work so they don't need all that much heat sink. hence why airflow would be a better benefit.
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