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-   -   My first virgin mods - go easy on me (https://www.speedzilla.com/forums/honda-rc51/25843-my-first-virgin-mods-go-easy-me.html)

Capt.Enzo 08-21-2006 05:26 PM

My first virgin mods - go easy on me
 
My bruthas,

I told you I have a stone stock 01 51. Now, I'm thinking about keeping costs down and getting the most for my buck. My complaints of the bike are basically these:

too hot
gearing too high
sort of heavy feeling
damn clutch is too hard to pull

Here is what I am thinking: I wrap the headers in tape and get new fluids all around. I change out the sprockets to whatever it is you guys do (14-52?) By the way - how do I get my speedo to reflect this change?

I've already contacted a member here about new clutch springs. I also want to get Galfer SS lines. That will help. Next, I think the biggest problem in feel is wheels. Are the stock wheels sort of heavy or no? I could get some super light wheels.

As far as slip ons and Power Commander goes - I think the factory map is OK for me. Never hit the rev limiter so slip ons are just sound modification. Not necessary.

It would be great to have a slipper clutch, but that can wait. What do you think of my plan? Are super light wheels too much money and not worth the effort? How else to make the bike feel lighter and tighter?

Thanks, y'all.

irishaggression 08-21-2006 05:45 PM

well if you wanna get the most for your buck get some forged mags. that wont keep the cost down but there you have it. also switch hit using your left hand that should make the clutch easier to pull

Fiddy1 08-21-2006 05:52 PM

Try lighter battery with relocator. Made i big difference, bang for buck. Also try rear height shims, or kyle link. Dont forget slipons will lower weight compared to stock cans.

RVT1000 08-21-2006 06:26 PM

Instead of wheels I would get slip ons and PC III, it will help with perforamnce and save wt on those stock exhaust

Chops74 08-21-2006 06:28 PM

Economical Route:
1) Biggest Bang for your buck = 15/41 gearing change.
2) Hardwire your fan so it stays on or you can flip it with a switch.
3) Put a shim in the shock to improve geometry. Helps to turn in quicker and feel a little less heavy when flipping from side to side. Lower your triple clamp after you have done this and it improves flickability as well. I cannot remember how much I lowered mine from stock, but I got the measurements from either here or Rogue.

Expensive Route:
1) High performance wheels are the best mod you can have. Magnesium - Forged. Not cheap, but major improvement.
2) Suspension upgrades if you are bringing it to the track, but for the daily commuter I would pick the wheels over suspension. However, a shock with ride height adjustment & a new link helps the bike feel a little less heavy too, but the shim takes care of that....however, it does not take care of the stock shock issues.

My clutch felt very tight at first, but I got used to it. I also agree that a nice set of slip-ons will reduce a decent amount of weight and will improve the mid-range dip of the stockers.

phukaduc 08-21-2006 06:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by irishaggression
also switch hit using your left hand that should make the clutch easier to pull

:woot:
nothing prevents forearm pump like milking the dragon daily.

varium 08-21-2006 07:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Capt.Enzo
My bruthas,

I told you I have a stone stock 01 51. Now, I'm thinking about keeping costs down and getting the most for my buck. My complaints of the bike are basically these:

too hot
gearing too high
sort of heavy feeling
damn clutch is too hard to pull

Here is what I am thinking: I wrap the headers in tape and get new fluids all around. I change out the sprockets to whatever it is you guys do (14-52?) By the way - how do I get my speedo to reflect this change?

I've already contacted a member here about new clutch springs. I also want to get Galfer SS lines. That will help. Next, I think the biggest problem in feel is wheels. Are the stock wheels sort of heavy or no? I could get some super light wheels.

As far as slip ons and Power Commander goes - I think the factory map is OK for me. Never hit the rev limiter so slip ons are just sound modification. Not necessary.

It would be great to have a slipper clutch, but that can wait. What do you think of my plan? Are super light wheels too much money and not worth the effort? How else to make the bike feel lighter and tighter?

Thanks, y'all.




Run the fan(s) constantly and you will never have to worry about the heat. Don't worry about the fan motor dieing out. With more than 7K miles mine is still going strong. Even if it does die you can pick a replacement up for pennies.
I have a rear sprocket that's either a 41 or 43 tooth, but you will need to do the 520 chain conversion to use it. i'd let you have my spare for cheap though.
The wheels will make a huge difference, but can be pricey. I just may know of a set that could save you some money.
You can either shim your rear shock for some imporvement, or you could buy an aftermarket rear link for more of an improvement. The link will really earn its keep if you switch to lighter wheels. Link can be had from Dan Kyle for 285 or there is a cat in the classifieds section that sells an imporved rear link for 180.
You should be happy with the slip ons and PC with a basic down loaded map. If you really wanted to get the last couple hp out of it then you could throw it on a dyno for tweaking.

However, the chaepest way to lighten up the bike and rider total weight is to lighten up the rider.:woot:

BTW, battery mod could be something to look into.

area51racer 08-21-2006 07:24 PM

If you think the clutch lever is hard to pull, think about what the Ducati guys are going through. Most of their clutches are twice as hard to manage.

Gearing is cheap and 15/41 seems popular. A speedo healer will correct the error. Or just let some bitch in a VW Jetta run bandit for ya. There are plenty of those out there to peak the attention of speed traps.

You would be amazed at what aftermarket exhaust will do for weight savings. Wheels are a bit extreme but always look nice and definitely take the handling to a new level. They will not, however, drastically reduce the curb weight of the bike since it is rotational mass that is being reduced. Higher profile tire shapes like Dunlops, Pirelli, and Michelin tend to do wonders for making the RC feel lighter in the corner transitions so consider a tire change before spending thousands on new wheels.

You mentioned you wanted to keep the budget reasonable but your wish list sounds expensive. You can begin to filter out through these posts what mods will do certain things for you and which ones will break the bank. Good luck and have fun making this RC yours:wacky

MVRC51 08-21-2006 07:25 PM

I think you are focusing way too much on the bike...

Answers to your proposed concerns:

too hot -you or the bike? Speed up!:D These thing run hot but I have never had a problem.
gearing too high - change to a 15/41 or 42
sort of heavy feeling - Speed up again!:D Deep pockets needed...see Thorsten @ http://www.honda-rc51.de/
damn clutch is too hard to pull - see the responses in your other thread...

I would suggest getting a PCIII usb and spend the rest on the suspension.:twocents

irishaggression 08-21-2006 07:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by varium
I have a rear sprocket that's either a 41 or 43 tooth

how much you want for the 41?

Capt.Enzo 08-21-2006 11:35 PM

Man, great responses!

Couple questions:

1. What is a rear 'link'? Do you mean a new swingarm?

2. You mention shock shims - is this to jack up the back end and increase the geometry? This means even MORE weight on the wrists? I don't know if I can dig that - I don't go to the track.

3. I have heard that a simple set of slip ons will not require a PC111. I have heard Moriwakis that sounded very nice. I can't believe there is THAT much weight savings. How much weight savings?

4. Is our stock primary sprocket a 14?

5. I have Dunlop Qualifiers on my Guzzi V11. It seems sort of LOW profile. I love the tires, though. Do I need higher profile than this? The bike came with Dunlop 207s - sort of cheap, but they are new.

OK, here is what I need if any of you would like to sell me stuff:

slip ons
41-43 sprocket
chain modification?
speedo corrector?
rear link
a 'good' deal on wheels
battery relocator stuff and info

thanks!!!!

Enzo

Mondial429 08-22-2006 12:49 AM

Here is some info for your battery mod.:)
Page 3 has some pics and info.


https://www.speedzilla.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22710

Fiddy1 08-22-2006 02:42 AM

The link is the lower pivot point on the bottom of rear shock. A Kyle link will raise the rear a few mm and make the shock work more linear.

Capt.Enzo 08-22-2006 02:50 AM

After seeing that battery mod, I think I'll hold off on that one.

Capt.Enzo 08-22-2006 02:58 AM

Good god, that Kyle link is $285!! Would it make a noticable difference besides putting even more weight on my hands?

Fiddy1 08-22-2006 03:01 AM

YEa it seems overwhelming but well worth the effort. The smaller YTZ7 battery makes a huge difference. 4lbs of weight your trying to muscle left and right. And if you lower the battery it feels like more.

Capt.Enzo 08-22-2006 03:57 AM

What about that Kyle link?

heavyzee 08-22-2006 04:00 AM

https://www.speedzilla.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25261

these are only $180, and are said to be better...

BLU-BY-U 08-22-2006 04:13 AM

http://www.rc51.org/ Look here in mods.

varium 08-22-2006 04:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Capt.Enzo
Man, great responses!

Couple questions:

1. What is a rear 'link'? Do you mean a new swingarm?

2. You mention shock shims - is this to jack up the back end and increase the geometry? This means even MORE weight on the wrists? I don't know if I can dig that - I don't go to the track.



The shims will increase your rear ride height, and yes it makes a little difference. The rear link would be a better choice though. The only time you would feel the whole pressure on your wrists is if you do mainly striaght highway commuting. There are bar risers for that if you find it uncomfortable.


Quote:

3. I have heard that a simple set of slip ons will not require a PC111. I have heard Moriwakis that sounded very nice. I can't believe there is THAT much weight savings. How much weight savings?

Yes, there will be a major weight savings over the stock cans. You will realize this when you pull them off to exchange.



Quote:

4. Is our stock primary sprocket a 14?

I believe the stock count is 16.





Quote:

5. I have Dunlop Qualifiers on my Guzzi V11. It seems sort of LOW profile. I love the tires, though. Do I need higher profile than this? The bike came with Dunlop 207s - sort of cheap, but they are new.

The higher profile tire will give you a better turn in feel, but will make you work slightly harder if you are trying to do quick transitions from full tilt to the opposite side. Ride out on the ones you have until you get some miles on the bike and then decide if you should throw i different set on.





Quote:

OK, here is what I need if any of you would like to sell me stuff:

slip ons
41-43 sprocket
chain modification?
speedo corrector?
rear link
a 'good' deal on wheels
battery relocator stuff and info

thanks!!!!

Enzo



Chain mod is called a 520 conversion. The stock chain and sprockets are 530. Its a beefier chain, but does weigh more thus adding reciprocating mass that the conversion will reduce. Try putting 200018607628 in the ebay search box for a complete kit.

Speedo healer is not that important because speedos are notoriously inaccurate. But if you have a heavy wrist and cops that are unforgiving then you may want to look into it. Or if you plan on putting 10's of thousands of miles on the bike.


The link can be found in the classifieds section.


A good deal on wheels is all relative to what you consider a good deal and what kind of rim you go with(i.e. magnesium or aluminum/ OZ-Marchesini-etc.) I do know a fella that just may be planning on selling a nice set of rims though.


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