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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-19-2006, 03:09 AM Thread Starter
 
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Slippin

Just Installed Crg's, & Galfer Steel Braided Clutch Line On My Pig. Now Outa The Blue The "friction Point" In The Lever Travel Has Moved Farthur Away And The Clutch Is Slipping....both Increase As The Operating Temp Rises?
Used Honda Dot-4, A Nuematic Bleeder To Flush The System Then Manualy Bled It TO GET ANY LEFT OVER AIR OUT...

Any Help Would Be Apreciated.
Thnx In Advance
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-19-2006, 03:33 AM
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I'd try bleeding it again, manually. What do you mean by clutch slipping? It can only slip if it is worn, or the springs have lost tension or there is pressure on the operating rod from the slave cyclinder.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-19-2006, 04:38 AM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weasel
I'd try bleeding it again, manually. What do you mean by clutch slipping? It can only slip if it is worn, or the springs have lost tension or there is pressure on the operating rod from the slave cyclinder.
BY SLIPPING I MEAN SLIPPING. WHEN ACCELERATING THE ENGINE RPMS INCREASE AND THE MAINTAINS SPEED. THE QUIKER YOU WRAP IT UP THE LESS POWER IT WILL TRANSFER TO THE WHEEL.....YOU KNOW SLIPPING

AND TO PUT IT TO SCALE.....I RODE HOME FROM WORK
(15 MILES HWY/1 MILE STOP N GO)
RIGHT OUT OF THE SHOP THE BIKE IS RUNNING 100-110.
DOES NOT SLIP A BIT.
BY THE TIME I GET OFF @ MY EXIT IT IS RUNNING ABOUT 220
NOT A NOTICABLE SLIP UNTIL I GET INTO THE NEIGHBORHOOD WHERE
I STOP AND ACCELERATE OFF AND ON PRETTY HARD. NOTICED THE SLIP SO I HEADED BACK OUT TO THE MAIN ROADS AND SURE ENOUGH 1ST
THROUGH FORTH I COULD NOT DO MORE THAN A LIGHT ROLL-ON WITH IT
SLIPPING LIKE A BIG DOG. BY THIS TIME IT WAS RUNNING ABOUT
225-230

ALSO FELT AS IF THE CLUTCH LEVER WAS FARTHER AWAY THAN I COULD EVER REMEMBER?
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-19-2006, 08:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MOOSEKNUCKLE
BY SLIPPING I MEAN SLIPPING. WHEN ACCELERATING THE ENGINE RPMS INCREASE AND THE MAINTAINS SPEED. THE QUIKER YOU WRAP IT UP THE LESS POWER IT WILL TRANSFER TO THE WHEEL.....YOU KNOW SLIPPING

AND TO PUT IT TO SCALE.....I RODE HOME FROM WORK
(15 MILES HWY/1 MILE STOP N GO)
RIGHT OUT OF THE SHOP THE BIKE IS RUNNING 100-110.
DOES NOT SLIP A BIT.
BY THE TIME I GET OFF @ MY EXIT IT IS RUNNING ABOUT 220
NOT A NOTICABLE SLIP UNTIL I GET INTO THE NEIGHBORHOOD WHERE
I STOP AND ACCELERATE OFF AND ON PRETTY HARD. NOTICED THE SLIP SO I HEADED BACK OUT TO THE MAIN ROADS AND SURE ENOUGH 1ST
THROUGH FORTH I COULD NOT DO MORE THAN A LIGHT ROLL-ON WITH IT
SLIPPING LIKE A BIG DOG. BY THIS TIME IT WAS RUNNING ABOUT
225-230

ALSO FELT AS IF THE CLUTCH LEVER WAS FARTHER AWAY THAN I COULD EVER REMEMBER?
Does the clutch level pressure feel normal when engaging? After changing my lines out, I had a similar issue and had to bleed the master cylinder separate at the top line bolt then the whole system as normal. Or get a vacuum bleeder. A little secret I use is Teflon tape on my threads of my bleeder fittings. Makes bleeding a cleaner and easier job.


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Last edited by DStinson; 08-19-2006 at 12:19 PM.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-19-2006, 06:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MOOSEKNUCKLE
BY SLIPPING I MEAN SLIPPING. WHEN ACCELERATING THE ENGINE RPMS INCREASE AND THE MAINTAINS SPEED. THE QUIKER YOU WRAP IT UP THE LESS POWER IT WILL TRANSFER TO THE WHEEL.....YOU KNOW SLIPPING

AND TO PUT IT TO SCALE.....I RODE HOME FROM WORK
(15 MILES HWY/1 MILE STOP N GO)
RIGHT OUT OF THE SHOP THE BIKE IS RUNNING 100-110.
DOES NOT SLIP A BIT.
BY THE TIME I GET OFF @ MY EXIT IT IS RUNNING ABOUT 220
NOT A NOTICABLE SLIP UNTIL I GET INTO THE NEIGHBORHOOD WHERE
I STOP AND ACCELERATE OFF AND ON PRETTY HARD. NOTICED THE SLIP SO I HEADED BACK OUT TO THE MAIN ROADS AND SURE ENOUGH 1ST
THROUGH FORTH I COULD NOT DO MORE THAN A LIGHT ROLL-ON WITH IT
SLIPPING LIKE A BIG DOG. BY THIS TIME IT WAS RUNNING ABOUT
225-230

ALSO FELT AS IF THE CLUTCH LEVER WAS FARTHER AWAY THAN I COULD EVER REMEMBER?
I remember something about the early CRG levers needing a piece replace on the RC. They did not let the clutch engage completely. I heard if you call them they will send the new piece. I will search around and see if I can find the info on it.





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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-19-2006, 06:53 PM
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Exclamation Check the level contact piont to the Master cylinder!

Quote:
Originally Posted by DStinson
I remember something about the early CRG levers needing a piece replace on the RC. They did not let the clutch engage completely. I heard if you call them they will send the new piece. I will search around and see if I can find the info on it.



That's what I was going to say, that you need to look at, the part of the {level that pushs on the mc piston} and make sure that it's not keeping it alittle depressed! Which is what I bet is happening!

Good luck....let us know what you find out.....


Peace Jeff
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-19-2006, 07:19 PM
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I agree with what Jeff said, about the piston rod for the clutch master. If it came out and is partially "cocked" and not seated correctly, it won't allow the clutch to relax completely, causing slipping.

Put your stock lever back on and see if anything changes. Don't keep riding it if it's slipping or you'll ruin the clutch.

_____________________________________________

Oh.....It's on, Biotch.............
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-19-2006, 11:33 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rigor
I agree with what Jeff said, about the piston rod for the clutch master. If it came out and is partially "cocked" and not seated correctly, it won't allow the clutch to relax completely, causing slipping.

Put your stock lever back on and see if anything changes. Don't keep riding it if it's slipping or you'll ruin the clutch.
I SHIT CANNED MY STOCKER AS IT WAS SHEARED WHEN MY BIKE WAS KNOCKED OVER.....
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-20-2006, 01:06 AM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RVTMAVERICK
That's what I was going to say, that you need to look at, the part of the {level that pushs on the mc piston} and make sure that it's not keeping it alittle depressed! Which is what I bet is happening!

Good luck....let us know what you find out.....


Peace Jeff
I HAVE TAKEN A CLOSER LOOK.....AND UPON REMOVAL AND INSTALL
(OVER AND OVER) I HAVE DETERMANED THAT THE PLUNGER IS BEING DEPRESSED A C.H. AS I ALIGN AND POSITION THE LEVER IN ORDER TO SLIP IN THE PIVOT/MOUNTING SCREW.

NOW, WITH THE LEVER COMPLETELY REMOVED THE PLUNGER IS FULLY EXTENDED(NO SLACK) WHEN I INSTALL THIS LEVER...
-PUT THE BRASS PIVOT DOWEL THINGY INTO THE LEVER
-SLIP THE LEVER INTO THE PERCH
-NOW HERE IS WERE THE PLUNGER GETS DEPRESSED......WHEN I SWING
THE LEVER INTO THE PERCH IN ORDER TO LINE UP THE HOLE FOR THE
MOUNTING/PIVOT SCREW.?????? THE AMOUNT DEPRESSED WOULD BE
ESTIMATED AT A 1/16 TO AN 1/8"

*NOW I AM SURE I COULD JUST RELIEVE THE LEVER STOP THAT IS AGAINST THE INSIDE OF THE PERCH WHEN IN RESTING POSITION, AND
THIS WOULD ALLOW THE LEVER TO TRAVEL OUT THE CH I WOULD NEED TO LET THE PLUNGER EXTEND. BUT I'M JUST CURIOUS AS TO WHAT HAPPENS
WHEN INSTALLING A FACTORY LEVER.....AND I WOULD PREFFER TO KNOW IF THER IS A NEWER OR UPDATED LEVER ASSY. LIKE WHAT WAS MENTION IN A PREVIOUS POST, CAUSE THAT WOULD BE MY PREFFERED REMEDY!
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-20-2006, 06:10 PM Thread Starter
 
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can any help out with the stock lever experiment?
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-20-2006, 07:54 PM
 
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I don't think anyone is going to help you with shit until you relax on the caps lock shit.
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-24-2006, 01:30 AM Thread Starter
 
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*UPDATE*


DETERMAINED THAT THE LEVER IS NOT RESPONSABLE FOR THE SLIPPING......

NOW WHAT?
BLEEDING?
A GUY WOULD THINK THAT AIR IN THE SYSTEM WOULD RESULT IN A CLUTCH THAT CUOLD NOT BE DIS-ENGAGED....NOT THE RECIPRICLE!
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