I've finally completed the tail lights although not installed them on my bike yet.
Photos below and video
. The new PCB's are all red. The components will all be poured up in black plastic to keep it moisture free and insulated, so no electrical components will be visible.
Curious what the interest is for a group buy of these.
This would be a one time thing. I'm not looking to make this a regular available item. They would be made to order only, since keeping them on stock is not realistic given the hours and hours of work it takes to finish to completion. I have everything sorted and worked out finally, from the PCB's, lenses, wiring, and a stencil/template for marking where to cut the tail section. Pictured below is everything that you would get.
Asking price $520 CDN Shipped anywhere.
Method of payment: Not yet decided, but I don't want to accept paypal since they have fees and can essentially freeze my account even after I've made shipment. From what I've read online sellers can get pretty screwed.... I would accept bank transfer, money order... any other suggestions?
Terms of sale, these would be non negotiable.
These will only be sold as a non-road use/show use only item. Of course because I have not done any DOT testing or certification. Even though I use LED's that many OEM's use and these are brighter in both brake and tail illumination (so much so that even with the setting sun in your eyes these are highly visible from behind) it should be pretty obvious that I can not take on the liability associated with warranting something like this fit for the street. As such I will be asking all buyers to print off a "sale form" that states things such as: 1) you will only use it for "show purposes" and the vehicle will not be operated with the lights as the sole source of road legal/road going illumination 2) you will not re-sell it 3)you as the buyer are responsible for all damages incurred by it's use or installation. I will ask that the form be signed, and a picture taken with your drivers license sitting on top of it. The drivers license needs to be a photo which is representative of what you look like and has your current address. The country, state, city etc need to be visible but you can block out the actual drivers license numbers. I will only ship to the address on the license.
I realize that this might seem a bit overkill but from my perspective I need protection and assurances that people do not try and hold me accountable for their own lack of responsibility or bad judgment...
Mounting the lights:
My recommendation is to mount the lights without any rigid adhesive or bolts/screws. I would venture a guess that it the lenses are screwed or fixed in a rigid manner that they would deteriorate. Just like the stock lights are all soft mounted on grommets, it would be best if these are soft mounted too. I would recommend mounting them by adhering the light assembly to the inside of the cut out portion of the tail section with silicone. I used some black silicone.
Cutting the tail section. Keep the tail mounted . Use the template provided (Yes it's made of Papier Mâché
) The reason I decided on this was because it's cheap, easily modified, and works just like it needs to. 2) Place the template so that it fits flush with minimal pressure on it. ( you don't want to deform it but rather hugging the surface it's sitting on) Next you will need to eyeball it and make the right and left as symmetrical as you can. Even if it's off a bit you will not likely be able to notice. (TIP: the line of the solo cowl cut-out on the right and left side follows the line of the lights in parallel. The bottom line of the light follows the crease of the tail. You should cut just above the crease here.) Use a thin point sharpie and trace the template. Taking into account the fact that tracing will put you just outside and oversized compared to the template make sure you cut well within the line. Account for the slight difference in tracing and then account for a F-up margin. (ITS MUCH EASIER TO GO BACK AND SHAVE OFF A BIT MORE LATER WHEN SEEING HOW THE LIGHT FITS UP TO THE CUTOUT) 3) I used a very sharp sturdy box cutter and a bunch of blades to make sure it was razor sharp. Place yourself REASONABLY within the lines of the stencil. Cut very gently at first so that you can place a single score line right where you need it. Then follow with many many score lines increasing the pressure just by a hair each time. (TIP: keep fingers clear) Being gentle at the start ensures that you will stay in the first cut score line you placed. If you are too eager to get this done quickly it will look like ass and you will mark up the tail. Slow and steady wins here. The only real skill needed here is patience. Gradually as you work the cut you will get deeper and finally break though the plastic. (TIP: always cut starting from the corners and stop your cut somewhere in the middle before you get to the next intersecting line. This way you will not overshoot the intersecting line and mark up the tail. Change directions and now cut from the other intersection and meet the previous line somewhere in the middle. ) ALTERNATE METHOD: since you have a tracing and can see where your limit is you may want to use a very fine toothed hand saw. This MIGHT work but it is not how I did it.( It would also require you to drill a hole in the middle and then disassemble your hand saw and reassemble it through the hole so you can use it and then disassemble it to remove it once the cuts are made.) (TIP: don't cut any electrical wires inside the bike) 4)Once the cut piece is popped out check for the fit of the light. If you did everything perfectly the light will NOT fit! (because you undersized your cuts, remember?) So now take a ~120-220 grit paper and a sharp edged block a use it to sand back the edges little by little until you have a perfect fit for the light. (TIP: check back and forth often with the light to see how things are progressing.) 5) take off the tail and the undertail. 6) Clean the inside of the tail section with water and soap and then wipe it dry. Wipe it with rubbing alcohol. DO NOT wipe the lights with anything other than mild soapy water. Let it all dry. 7) Reinstall the tail section only, do not reinstall the undertail yet. Tighten all the bolts on the tail section like normal. 8) With the undertail section well out of the way you can place the lights into the cut outs. Use painters tape or some hot glue. If using the hot glue gun don't let the glue get too hot and only place small amounts on areas that will be away from edges or visible. Using something like popsicle sticks on the inside of the undertail you can hold the lights in place without taking up too much space. 9) Once it's all held in place and positioned how you want it, use the silicone to run a gentle bead along the seam between the tail fairing and the light. The more gently you do this the less will bulge or seep out between the two on the outside. But there should be minimal gap between the lights and the fairing anyways. If you need to do any clean up use some mild soapy water and wipe gently away from the lenses. Let it cure without touching it. 10) Once it's partly cured run a thicker amount along the seams and just spread or smear it out a bit wider between the fairing and the light. This will just give a bit stronger of a joint. I used a similar method to hold my previous lights to the body and it lasted 10+years without a problem. Then when I finally wanted it out I took a sharp blade and worked it between the fairing and the light. The silicone was still holding strong to both sides. 11) Once fully cured you can take the tail section off and reinstall the undertail. Note: you might need to modify the undertail to allow for clearance of the lights. I would not recommend the lights have any pressure or contact from anything once mounted. Obviously since there are a million different types of undertails I can't recommend on how to do this for each. Suffice to say, cut it clear of the lights!
I would NOT recommend using a dremel type tool. It creates too much heat and melts the fairing. Also it's much too difficult for precision work