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Shindengen FH012AA Regulator / Rectifier Install

48K views 65 replies 20 participants last post by  phoenixr2 
#1 · (Edited)
Note: If for any reason you are not seeing the images that go with this post, you can view a simple version with images here
Note: The FH012AA regulator that I installed back in 2011 and referenced below has been superceded by the FH020AA which is the correct part to purchase now


After discovering how hot the stock regulator/rectifier runs, it's lack of reliability and possibility of battery fire upon failure I bought a Shindengen Mosfet FH020AA regulator/ rectifier kit. They are easy to find on Ebay, I bought mine from this guy:


https://www.ebay.com/sch/jasonmotoelectrix/m.html?_nkw=fh020aa

Search his store for FH020AA. I bought the universal kit which came with the gray and black Furukawa connectors, but if you end up getting an r/r by itself, just goto this website and get a connector kit:

R/R Connectors or EasternBeaver main webpage

The Mosfet design is superior to the stock SCR shunt design and more reliable since it runs cooler. Plus the Furukawa connectors are less prone to corrosion problems. It's also smaller and lighter, but the weight is offset by the adapter plate I used to mount it.



I started started by disconnecting the battery..VERY IMPORTANT!!

Next I made an adapter plate out of 1/4 aluminum with 9mm M6.0x1 Timesert thread inserts. Since the r/r isn't coming on/off the bike very much you could probably just tap the aluminum M6.0x1 but be careful not to over-torque.

Adapter Plate Plans - PDF Version Click here: http://airlinebrats.com/rc51/rectifier/FH012AA_adapter.pdf
If you want to print and trace it be sure turn off page scaling when printing. The hole pattern is what is important, the outer shape of the plate isn't.








Since the thread inserts extend beyond the adapter plate, I had to very slightly enlarge the holes in the subframe as well as the holes in the FH012AA, using an "F" drill, but a round file would work just fine too.



Once I got it mounted I cut off the stock alternator connector.



I then used 14GA wire to extend the three yellow alternator leads, crimped & soldered the leads and inserted them into the connector. I doubled up two layers of heat-shrink tubing to insulate and protect each solder joint. I don't want these wires getting exposed and arc-welding to the frame! I couldn't find yellow wire so I wrapped each wire with yellow tape - just for identification.







The kit includes wire and leads to run the DC output straight to the battery, but I elected to solder them directly to the existing wire harness for a cleaner install. The stock R/R output connector has two positive power leads (red wires) and two ground leads (green wires) plus a control wire (black/white wire) which is not used anymore with this modification. The two wires of each color are joined together elsewhere in the harness and I assume are double wires from the R/R only to increase amperage capability.

I cut the stock charging connector. CAUTION: You WILL get sparks if you do this while the battery is still connected - the red wires are HOT to the battery at all times regardless of key position.



I soldered together each of the red wires with the red 10 gauge wire from the FH012AA's connector, then also did the same thing for the bikes green wires to the FH012AA's black wire.





Afterwards I reconnected the battery. Started up the bike, then using my voltmeter made sure the system was charging the battery ok. My A123 battery normally shows 13.35 volts, and starting the bike seems to take NOTHING out of these batteries, so when the bike was revved up the system voltage only went up slightly to 13.8 or so. It just didn't need much charging.
 
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#8 ·
Awesome wright up !!!!

Great looking job, and great details. THANKS !!! Hard to pass this mod up. Be a great time to up grade battery too at the same time. :D Hoovy
 
#13 ·
After reading this thread, I'm afraid my RC will burst into flames. Another mod to the list.. lol. I feel like my RC is a bookie, constantly demanding money :D. 9hondas- You could just drill as many holes as you feel comfortable with into that mount for weight reduction/cooling, it looks pretty sturdy. Thanks for the detailed writeup.
 
#15 ·
I ordered mine yesterday and happen to have some 1/4" aluminum stock laying around so I'm ready to go. Just a couple of questions? Does the FHO12AA sit flush on the aluminum plate? The reason I ask because the 9mm M6.0x1 Timesert thread inserts extend out the front of the plate. I assume that the mounting holes in the FHO12AA is big enough to accommodate this. Q2: If the FHO12AA sits flush on the plate wouldn't you what more contact surface to increase thermal conductivity with the mounting plate? Oops Q3: Or is the hole in the center just to save some weight?
 
#19 ·
I just had a total "light bulb" moment making the idea total overkill and possibly a waste of time, but what the heck.
OK here it is: You see that thin back plate in the back-round pic, looks like the back of the old unit, why not trim that piece (if it's thick enough) to fit and make up the .017" difference on the new unit making the 1/4" aluminum mounting plate a functional heat sink. As long as you used enough thermal paste of course.
 
#21 ·
I just had a total "light bulb" moment making the idea total overkill and possibly a waste of time, but what the heck.
OK here it is: You see that thin back plate in the back-round pic, looks like the back of the old unit, why not trim that piece (if it's thick enough) to fit and make up the .017" difference on the new unit making the 1/4" aluminum mounting plate a functional heat sink. As long as you used enough thermal paste of course.
Assuming heatsinking is desired, it would be a lot quicker and easier to trace the footprint of the new regulator on the adapter plate, then mill the .017" off the adapter plate inside the lines. Although judging by the design it is meant to be air-cooled.
 
#22 ·
Looks alot like this:
http://www.speedzilla.com/forums/rc51-technical-discussion/64953-replacement-rectifier.html

I think you folks worrying about heatsinking may be over complicating things. These MOSFET regulators don't generate much heat since they don't sink current like the older ones do. The fins on the front side dissapate the heat, not the rear of the unit. On the 06-07 CBR, the rectifier/regulator is mounted right by the top of the cylinder head, with the back side fully exposed to the hot engine. Just mount it up and you'll be fine
 
#24 ·
I'm just glad heat will no longer be a problem for the R/R with this upgrade!
One less thing to worry about while riding in adverse conditions.

I'll say it again, this has been a great thread and I thank all who have contributed. Especially 9hondas for taking the time to explain and illustrate, Kudos :)
 
#27 · (Edited)
OK, so maybe no heat loss to be gained but the carbon certainly will be significantly lighter and stronger FWIW than aluminum

I can do some plates for you if you like if not no biggy io love the project
Based on us realizing heat transfer is not an issue, a minimalist CF adapter plate would probably be the lightest. Here's a revised drawing that would probably be pretty cool in CF:




Here's the PDF version, let me know if you want a DWG file.

http://airlinebrats.com/rc51/rectifier/FH012AA_adapter_CF.pdf

If you're thinking about making them, I'll buy one!

BTW my aluminum adapter plate weighs 3.1 oz. or 87 grams, without timeserts. Oh and that's before hogging out the middle as shown by TLRSKUNK.
 
#30 ·
I think 1/8" would be too thin for the inserts, I don't think there'd be enough grip and the insert would probably spin when the bolts are tightened. The material is counterbored before the insert is put in which would eat up a lot of that 1.8".

I know what you're saying about the cost of material and waste, I've got some dragon plate here for my airplane project, that stuff isn't cheap!

I don't mind doing the drilling/inserting if we can work out the design. Obvously its not a big money maker for anyone but more of a good thing to help out the group.
 
#32 ·
i did not buy a rc51 11 years ago to make money. i also don't do mods and try to help to make money either. there are some who don't even own a 51 and never did they just are salespeople and could care less about our bike/s. i sell a few parts to help have play money but the bike and mods are what i enjoy the most

i have some plate i send you if you like, sounds like fun and great job i have not seen a cool DIY mod like this in a long while
 
#33 · (Edited)
""The kit includes wire and leads to run the DC output straight to the battery, but I elected to solder them directly to the existing wire harness for a cleaner install. The stock R/R output connector has two positive power leads (red wires) and two ground leads (green wires) plus a control wire (black/white wire) which is not used anymore with this modification. The two wires of each color are joined together elsewhere in the harness and I assume are double wires from the R/R only to increase amperage capability.

I soldered together each of the red wires with the red 10 gauge wire from the FH012AA's connector, then also did the same thing for the bikes green wires to the FH012AA's black wire. ""



I was wondering since I am in the process of installing the same kit, did you have a specific reason to solder the wires together to the stock harness like you did other than a cleaner install? I was thinking of using the fuse that came in the kit to go directly to the two red wires since theres enough wire. I have read several reviews and in it one said he had problems with lights not working bypassing the stock harness like the instructions say to.


Chris
 
#36 ·
""I did it because it was a cleaner install, but also because that's where Honda designed the electrical system to have the charging voltage applied. I got looking at the wiring diagram in the manual and saw no advantage to bypassing the stock wiring, which already has 30a fuse. It would be redundant to add a second fuse.""


That was my second line of thinking which is what I think I'm gonna do. My home made mount to the r/r is out of some scrap aircraft aluminum I had laying around and no where near as trick as yours but its just a temp fix for now until I can get ahold of some nicer material then I'll use it as a template.
A word to the wise, if anybody is planing to do this be sure and double check the clearance against the tail piece. Not alot of room there to play with. I chose not to drill into the sub frame which leaves very few options. I may end up doing just that but I will see how this turns out.


Chris
 
#37 ·
Nice write up and install! I think I'm headed that direction on my '01. I've done the same with my '99 VFR and my recently sold '96 PC800.
The only thing I'd add is to bypass the main harness for the DC output. I read this on A Triumph forum, and it's what I did on the other two bikes. Since the connectors are only two wire out anyway, just run the neg direct to the main ground and the pos to the + terminal through a 30a fuse.
Also the FH010 from the ZX10 works the same. I think all the Honda FH R/R's have a pigtail...
I just learned what the black monitor wire does, and more importantly, is not required for this mod! Just ignore it.
On the other hand, with the stock R/R, it seems to help to run a wire direct from the + terminal to that wire on the R/R side of the connector. Basically the stock R/R needs voltage from the battery to determine how much DC to send, and a direct connection is better.
 
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