I need a rear wheel spacer to fit a 07 s4r monster. Mounting a set of forged marchesini's, and the rear is 6" wide. It will hit the trellis swingarm if the eccentric is adjusted anywhere past about 50 deg on either side of straight up, which isn't where it should be (correct me if I'm wrong).
Looks like a 3-5mm spacer would be fine, and then I'd just need longer bolts to extend the drive pins out with it, correct?
Something that is available, or custom/one-off?
I've got a lathe in my garage, but how I would part off a 3mm piece I'm not sure (not a machinist)
Yup, called them first. BST spacer won't work, but they said they would get back with me.
I've got a lathe, but I've never cut anything out that thin, and I'm really not a machinist at all. I would assume the runout would need to be zero.
I've got a parting tool, and a boring bar. I don't have a rotary/index table though to cut the locating/drive pins with. I suppose I could clamp it to the flange and drill them out that way?
Hopefully there is an off the shelf part available somewhere
Sure wasn't planning on it....... Should I somehow notch the swingarm instead?
I don't know about notching the swingarm, never really looked at one.
I don't think it's a great idea to have the rear wheel on a different track than the front. When I took my 851 to GMD Computrac in Atlanta a few years ago they made a big point about sliding the bushing in the left fork leg over a tiny bit to make sure the front and rear wheels were aligned.
I dunno. I'd like it if a few others would chime in. I do know that bet makes a spacer for the same bike but with their wheels. That doesn't nessicarily make it right, but I know it's done. I don't imagine clearancing the swinger in that area is going to effect the swingarm strength. Might be the better way to go ??
When you are looking at the left side of the bike the eccentric should always be between 3 and 6 o'clock. A 6 inch wheel should fit with that swingarm.
Unfortunatly for me, it doesn't. The outer lip of the rim doesn't hit the arm, more like around where the tire bead is. It ain't much, but it does hit.
i have had made rear wheel spacers and even longer drive pins for my RC30 as their tires rub too so you cut the tire and shim it out 2mm, helps
i am now having a new swingarm made for a project but if you can send me your drive pin i can have some made for you at like $25 each and i can even have a 2mm shim made for $25 too
"Exercise restraint and discipline, only responding to posts from legit customers and those with constructive positive intent, you will find that the handgrenades explode harmlessly. You have many satisfied customers who are happy to have the parts you've made. My suggestion to you is keep making good parts, keep getting more customers, take care of them and let them speak for you."
Not a lot of spare time with a newborn at the house, but this is where I'm at:
It looks like there is a fraction of an inch of space between the arm and the wheel. When I first pulled the wheel off, it was because I was trying to rotate the eccentric to tension the chain up, and it would not go any further. I pulled the wheel off and noticed a small scuff on the arm. Naturally I thought that there was a problem (might still be?).
Upon further inspection, it was me putting the wheel on the bike that caused the scuff, as I've got to tilt it around the exhaust to get it on. The eccentric is being a bitch, as it reaches approx 4 oclock the brake caliper is at "top dead center" on the swiveling mount, and not letting me rotate the eccentric further. Even so, I can see light between the wheel and the swingarm. I'd estimate 2mm or so of clearance.
Not a lot of spare time with a newborn at the house, but this is where I'm at:
It looks like there is a fraction of an inch of space between the arm and the wheel. When I first pulled the wheel off, it was because I was trying to rotate the eccentric to tension the chain up, and it would not go any further. I pulled the wheel off and noticed a small scuff on the arm. Naturally I thought that there was a problem (might still be?).
Upon further inspection, it was me putting the wheel on the bike that caused the scuff, as I've got to tilt it around the exhaust to get it on. The eccentric is being a bitch, as it reaches approx 4 oclock the brake caliper is at "top dead center" on the swiveling mount, and not letting me rotate the eccentric further. Even so, I can see light between the wheel and the swingarm. I'd estimate 2mm or so of clearance.
Whatcha think?
space it out
take out a link
shave the side of the tire
look for the thinest 185
all of the above
i have not done much miles on my bike but when i was doing some i found out rapidly the bike was made for a 170 and i was grinding pegs and running out of room on the tire, odd for me
some purists will blather on about the 2mm offset while other reap the rewards of a larger tire and longer duration on chain link swaps. i do know some shaved their inner side of the tire and i called and had like 6 185 tires measured to get the narrowest tire too in combo with the shim i now have said screw it and am having a new swingarm made(not cheap) and in the shirt term a shim and drive pins it is
"Exercise restraint and discipline, only responding to posts from legit customers and those with constructive positive intent, you will find that the handgrenades explode harmlessly. You have many satisfied customers who are happy to have the parts you've made. My suggestion to you is keep making good parts, keep getting more customers, take care of them and let them speak for you."
"Exercise restraint and discipline, only responding to posts from legit customers and those with constructive positive intent, you will find that the handgrenades explode harmlessly. You have many satisfied customers who are happy to have the parts you've made. My suggestion to you is keep making good parts, keep getting more customers, take care of them and let them speak for you."
With the current sprockets on the bike (14t/41t) the chain will not tension before the eccentric runs out of adjustment.
With a 15t/41t, the chain will tension, and the eccentric has enough movement left to take all of the tension out of the chain completely.
I'm thinking with a 14t/43 (don't have), it would put the adjustment back in the spot it needs to be, and leave room for more. Maybe a 42 would be better, but I don't have either.
btw, measured with clay, there is .072" of space between the inner wheel rim, and the swingarm at max adjustment. I'm not sure if that is safe to run or not.
If I was money bags I'd sell these and get some BST's that fit properly, but I'm not.
Wheels spacer needed for rear
and i was grinding pegs and running out of room on the tire, odd for me
i now have said screw it and am having a new swingarm made(not cheap) and in the shirt term a shim and drive pins it is
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