Good to know. I didn't find that in the owner's manual, although I don't dispute that it's there. All I can say is that my Ducati mechanic didn't know that either. When brought the bike in 6 months ago he told me no maintenance was due.
He didnīt know about the service interval for belts?
Mate, it is all over the web, in every shop manual and a brizillion people know about it since the old Dukes came out. Thatīs a cheap excuse if you ask me...
He didnīt know about the service interval for belts?
Mate, it is all over the web, in every shop manual and a brizillion people know about it since the old Dukes came out. Thatīs a cheap excuse if you ask me...
Maybe I misspoke. When I talked to him yesterday he knew. He just wasn't offering the information earlier. I know it's my responsibility to know these things but again, if it's in my owners manual, it's buried; maybe in the italian section. For now all I can do is wait and see what the damage is, and take it up the tail pipe! I'll let y'all know.
Maybe I misspoke. When I talked to him yesterday he knew. He just wasn't offering the information earlier. I know it's my responsibility to know these things but again, if it's in my owners manual, it's buried; maybe in the italian section. For now all I can do is wait and see what the damage is, and take it up the tail pipe! I'll let y'all know.
It's in the maintenance schedule, the same place where you'll find things such as oil change intervals etc.
I know it's my responsibility to know these things but again, if it's in my owners manual, it's buried
I disagree wholeheartly mate. If I take my bike to the shop where it has always been serviced, they better know what there is to do.
But yeah, all complaining, ifs and buts wonīt help.
Wish you good luck rebuilding it. If you need help, this might be the right place to ask for help online.
Well, new belts are back on and the compression test done. Normal. Cylinder pressure test also showed everything is air tight. The bike starts up and runs strong ...but there's a ticking noise coming from the side opposite the belts that wasn't there prior to the mishap. Valve clearances check out.
I might have dodged a larger bullet, but I'm not sure about the noise. The cam bearing did not seem sticky when moved by hand to replace the belts. Any thoughts?
Oh, and the belts are waaaay less tight this time around. Unless this time he's got them adjusted too loose, it's obvious to me that the belts, at their last service, were over-tensioned. This seems to me to have been the cause of the failure. The mechanic claims to have used the harmonic method both times. Well, it's out of warranty and it's my word against the mechanic's word so...
You could still have an air tight engine and have a bent valve. The valve seat is sort of self centering isn't it? If the valve bent enough to where it will still seat (and it will because the desmo system is pulling it closed, it's not just some wimpy spring holding it closed), the valve could really be wedged into the guide when it's pulled against the seat.
You can probably test for this condition by taking the cam out, putting the engine at or near TDC and working the valves up and down by hand to find out.
Was this done? Were the valves checked to make sure they are straight?
I hate to rain on your parade but ticking is generally not good unless it's just clearances out of whack. Even that isn't good, but it's an easy fix.
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'01 996 (ASMA #17, rebuild complete, runs, needs more stuff as it goes with Ducatis)
'01 MV F4S
'02 998 www.asmaracing.com www.desmosouthwest.com
I'd still bet on a slightly bent valve. Obviously not badly as the bike runs ok.
I did a bonehead move on mine last year and ticked an exhaust valve against the piston. It ran well and I rode it all year but I knew it wasn't exactly right. It didn't have as much low end power as it used to. A leakdown test showed the typical 2% which is excellent yet it wasn't right. I pulled the head and measured the valves for runout and yes, one exhaust valve was bent about .07mm. I recut the seat, put both new ex valves in and it's good as new.
Check the closer clearances and do a leakdown test then ride it for driveability. Congrats on your luck as the engine wasn't trashed.
I see a lot of heads come through my shop with bent valves which the owner was unaware of. When I am in doubt and the engine is still assembled, I strip the engine down enough so that I can rotate the valves by hand (in your case, pull the cams and wedge the closing follower slightly open, pull the exhaust and intake manifolds), shine an inspection light through the plug hole or the open valve opposite of the one you are inspecting, rotate the valve in question against its seat and look into the port. If bent even slightly you will see a tiny crescent of light follow the motion of the valve where it is not seating. The valve will still seat enough to run well but you are flexing the valve head on its stem each time it seats. If you pop the head of it in a few thousand miles you will know why. It's a bit of work to check it this way but you will know what's going on without pulling the heads.
Thanks for the great responses. I'll take this good advice and delve into it further. I'm certainly impressed by the level of experience and expertise on this forum.
a bent valve will tighten the closer clearance and usually cause drag on the cam when trying to turn it. that is how i check for bent valves in this scenerio, but when i do the adjustment i set them tight so it will show up with even a slight bend.
...but there's a ticking noise coming from the side opposite the belts that wasn't there prior to the mishap. Valve clearances check out. 
a bent valve will tighten the closer clearance and usually cause drag on the cam when trying to turn it. that is how i check for bent valves in this scenerio, but when i do the adjustment i set them tight so it will show up with even a slight bend.
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