Some winter fluid maintenance questions

Now that the duc is up on the stand for the winter, getting ready to do a little maintenance. I heard you should change brake and clutch fluid every so often so I plan on doing that next.
1. Can anyone recommend a decent brake/clutch fluid? Any benefits to using the racing stuff...does it really matter? Anyone ever use Royal Purple?
2. Can I flush the hydraulics by just adding brake fluid until clean stuff comes out? Do I need to drain and flush with something else?
3. Kevlar lines. I've heard they stretch over time. True? Any benefit over SS lines?
Thanks to anyone with input!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kennedy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Now that the duc is up on the stand for the winter, getting ready to do a little maintenance. I heard you should change brake and clutch fluid every so often so I plan on doing that next.
1. Can anyone recommend a decent brake/clutch fluid? Any benefits to using the racing stuff...does it really matter? Anyone ever use Royal Purple?
2. Can I flush the hydraulics by just adding brake fluid until clean stuff comes out? Do I need to drain and flush with something else?
3. Kevlar lines. I've heard they stretch over time. True? Any benefit over SS lines?
Thanks to anyone with input!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Here is what I am using now. http://www.motostrano-store.com/motrbf600rac.html

I couldn't find anything with a higher boiling point and it safely mixes with your current fluid. I don't flush my brakes or clutch system with anything but new fluid. What I usually do is remove all the fluid in the reservoirs with an absorbant cloth (even paper towel will work) and wipe them clean. Then refill with new fluid and bleed untill clean fluid comes out for a while. I do this once a year so mine never gets too bad. I have only used SS lines and can't help on the kevlar question, but if they stretch and then maintain, it won't be any different than the hydrulics self adjusting for pad wear.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kennedy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1. Can anyone recommend a decent brake/clutch fluid? Any benefits to using the racing stuff...does it really matter? Anyone ever use Royal Purple?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I change my hydraulic fluid annually and like most other fluids changed frequently the difference in performance between the cheap stuff and uber pricey stuff is minimal. I buy the Prestone DOT 4 stuff from Walmart, like $0.50 per can and you will probably need about 2 cans. The Royal Purple sure is pretty though. Great for poseur points at Motomarket!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kennedy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2. Can I flush the hydraulics by just adding brake fluid until clean stuff comes out? Do I need to drain and flush with something else?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Procedure: connect bottle to bleeder, open tank cap, pump, pump, pump - hold, crack bleeder and pull lever *almost* to grip, close bleeder, release lever, refill tank as you go. No need to flush with anything.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kennedy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">3. Kevlar lines. I've heard they stretch over time. True? Any benefit over SS lines?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have no experience with Kevlar lines, but I have read that there is little difference between the two. Someone said Kevlar lines stretch laterally but as Alex O commented when I relayed this info previously, that may not be completely true. I am guessing the difference is the cool blue and red anodoze of the aluminum fittings that add up to bling points at Motomarket.

Thanks for the input. I figured if I were going for Kevlar, now would be the time to do it but I'll save the dough. Good tips on flushing. Thanks!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Now that the duc is up on the stand for the winter, getting ready to do a little maintenance. I heard you should change brake and clutch fluid every so often so I plan on doing that next.
1. Can anyone recommend a decent brake/clutch fluid? Any benefits to using the racing stuff...does it really matter? Anyone ever use Royal Purple?
2. Can I flush the hydraulics by just adding brake fluid until clean stuff comes out? Do I need to drain and flush with something else?
3. Kevlar lines. I've heard they stretch over time. True? Any benefit over SS lines?
Thanks to anyone with input!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
1. How many miles do you ride a year? How often do you change your brake fluid. If you are a racer you are looking for the highest dry boiling point and not worrying too much about the wet boiling point as you will changing your brake fluid more often then the average joe. If you are not changing your brake fluid twice a year or more you will be concerned more about your wet boiling point. Although the brake fluid mentioned(motul)has a high boiling point, its wet boiling point is low and is more susceptible to water absorption. The wet point would be more critical to your average joe rider on 4000 miles a year or so and maybe changing their fluid out once a year. Remember that your brake system absorbs water including water vapor through any on the seals. Ps at 12.50 it better be the highest dry boiling point. You can go to your local store and find many motorcycle brake fluids at 3.99, 5.99, 7.99 etc that will outperform the 14.99 one depending on YOUR application. One I just saw was 575 degree dry and 465 wet for 5.99

There have been some cases mentioned on the board where riders have mushy to no brakes after their brakes were heated up and when the bike cooled down the brakes were fine. That is an example where moisture has gotten into the line and as the brakes heat up - you have no brakes or mushy brakes. There could be other attributing factors, but you get the point.

As far as kevlar lines like anything they will eventually fatigue, but Aramid (Dupont)aka Kevlar is more susceptible to the sun and moisture. Thats why bullet proof vests are replaced over 3-5 year service life due to the fibers losing its original strength.