<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by auxo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Pic of my install of HID Express system
A side by side comparison of the HID Express bulb and a H3 bulb. Note that the focal point kept the same. Also, the HID bulb is "shorter" than most re-based HID bulbs that might lead focal point problems.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh, VERY nice. I mounted my ballest in the exact same spot as you did. My H1 HID lam p is the longer type. Yeah it's exactly in the same location as the old filament but the projector plasters the road with a very hice pattern with very sharp cut-off at the top. Overall it was still massive improvement over the stock, uses less power and is not dangerous to other vehicle operators (cut-off is properly adjusted).
Thanks for the pics!!! One of these days I'll shoot some pics of my HID beam pattern just for ref.
Yeah I know what you mean. The sharp cut off beam pattern does not help in getting noticed by car drivers. I will have to make it up by adjusting the aim a little higher...enought to catch attention but not enough to blind oncoming traffic. I remember seeing someone with both hi/lo with HIDs...
Hey Auxo what temp are your HIDS??? how are they holding up??? also on the pictures of you showing your highs and lows (hid) how did you get the high to come on without the lows?? because I thought when you turn on the highs the lows stay on??? you just diconnect them for the pictures, just woundering??
Also does anyone easy have hid on a ducati, anyone have both highs and lows?? It sounded like some people on this thread was going to post and one person said he was going to do both high and lows. Well if anyone has pic of there ducati with hids please post the brand temp etc... and any input or info you have on hids, Spring is coming up! and I am think about putting these bad devils on my bike... Thank you again guys!!
Using standard Halogen for my high and the HID.. I got off eBay so I don't really know who manufactured the kit or built the H1 envelope, what I do know is that it uses a Hella balast and it works like a charm.
BUT, I do blow the lighting fuse on the occasion if I leave the light switch 'ON' when I starte the bike, the surge seems to be enough to pop the 15A fuse in the cicuit. I just make a point of turning off my lights when I start (makes it easier on the battery anyway). Having a the Euro lightswitch is a REALLY nice thing... but I do admit that I've taken off and gone riding with my lights off more than once... DOH!
I have 6000k bulb and they are holding up fine so far. I use Raybrig H1 halogens on my high beam. The reason why my high and lo beams are isolated is because I have the european light switch assembly (from motowheels) you know, the one's you can turn the lights on/off.
You can easily attain this by re-soldering one wire from one terminal to another within the light switch. I believe you can conduct a search on this forum, it has been discussed before.
Stock mine was high or low. I opened it up and moved the wire so I have low or high/low on. I prefer to have max light, the power output of the bikes alternator/generator has plenty of reserve.
I figured out the light switch mod myself, it was a piece of cake, took about 30 min including the debug/testing time to verify which post to re-attach the white wire.
ok cool guys, well if yours are 6000k then the 8000k would be too much BLUE (too much BLING). So the 6000K seems to be a nice meduim between high lumes and color, that blue tint....?? And ya I will have to check out that Euro switch kit..
Thanks guys and thanks auxo for the fast reply I was waiting on your temp... before I go out and buy... and holeshot you use both high and lows all the time??? Does your halogens make you HIDS look crapy, you know mixing that nice pure light with that that nasty yellow dull light???
hey also holeshot I re-read your post do you have the euro switch kit, or did you mod it your self??? If you moded it yourself dont you still need to buy some sort of switching unit??
My bike came with the euro switch from the previous owner. I just modded it to allow both high & low on at the same time instead of either/or.
The HID makes the halogen look yellow and dingy actually. I know I have some pics but the camera tried to auto-color correct so they are totally inaccurate as far as color goes. I'll get out my real camera and shoot some tonight that will hopefully show the color.
No problem, glad I can contribute to your decision. My Raybrig H1 is supposedly 7500K type, but then compared to the HID, it makes it look yellow .
Holeshot, I might have to hit you up on the wiring, I believe that having both lights on at the same time can be very beneficial for us motorcycle riders. I wanted to do the re-wiring, but just couldn't find the time to do it (I have a 3 month old that's taking up 99.9% of my time). If you can just tell me what color wire to switch to, that will be most appreciated.
Yest H3 kits are the way to go. It's a straight replacement. The only issue is that you will need to route the wire from the HID bulb by piercing a hole through the rubber cap (see my previous posts in this thread).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by auxo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Vcook,
Yest H3 kits are the way to go. It's a straight replacement. The only issue is that you will need to route the wire from the HID bulb by piercing a hole through the rubber cap (see my previous posts in this thread).
I installed a 4300k HID kit on my 748s (commuter) & 998. The 4300k bulb is a bright white and I noticed the color changed to a slight blue as the bulb burns in during its use. It was $200.00 well spent especially riding at night! One thing I noticed, if I don't have a full charge on my battery from the battery tender, the ballast hesitates to light the bulb completely. (especially on the 998!)
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