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Old 05-19-2006, 06:46 AM
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Default Rivets for exhaust rebuild?

What length rivets do people use when rebuilding exhaust canisters?
Thanks!
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Old 05-19-2006, 12:54 PM
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Did you core the exhaust yourself? Unfortunately I dont have the answer to your rivet question but if you know where the website is that tells you step by step how to core your exhaust let me know. I was told coring might bring problems but I had none on the last bike...

I would say the rivets closest to the stock length and diameter, maybe slightly bigger would work/look good. Maybe 5/16 dia?
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Old 05-19-2006, 04:02 PM
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I personally made a hash of a coring job because of slightly innacurate drilling - the outer sleeves weren't seated firmly against the stainless end bit at the header end when my drill holes were lined up. Eventually got kinda wiggly and after a few fixes I had to trash them altogether. But I am betting that stainless rivets (like the stock ones) instead of aluminum ones would have held their shape better and lasted longer.

In retrospect, I would never again do the aircone style method that results in the outer sleeve becoming the main structure of the pipe. Much better to find a way to cut out most of the baffeling but keep a significant fraction of the inner structure for support.
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Old 05-19-2006, 04:53 PM
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I've repacked Termis a couple of times and used 5mm diameter x 20mm long. You could use shorter but the 20mm have more to 'scrunch up' so that they hold well and there's plenty of clearance inside the can - I've never never had any problems with them afterwards.

I use Aluminium rivets as they are easier to fit and, more importantly, easier to remove later than stainless - must be lighter too! but Stainless would be stronger.

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Old 05-20-2006, 09:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DukeDesmo

I use Aluminium rivets as they are easier to fit and, more importantly, easier to remove later than stainless - must be lighter too! but Stainless would be stronger.

ALSO: Aluminum is much easier to pull... the stainless ones you need a BIG gun, preferably pneumatic
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Old 05-21-2006, 07:33 PM
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Question

I have a set of Arrows with the carbon covers and stainless pop rivets holding the SS bands on each end. I wanted to remove the pipe and end of the muffler so I could have the whole system ceramic coated, but when I drilled out the rivets I couldn't get the end cap to come off. After closer inspection, I don't think the end cap comes off of the body. Is this correct?

If so, how are you guys getting the end caps off to repack these mufflers. I made a survey the other night at a Moto Guzzi/Ducati party and it looks like most of these SS mufflers w/carbon fiber sleeves are made the same. What is the secret to opening the cans?

Jimidan
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Old 05-22-2006, 07:53 PM
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Got the new end caps put on the Arrows. Pretty straight forward; drill the rivets and pop the cap off and put the new ones on. As an FYI I used 5mm X 3/8" aluminum rivets. Worked great. I would hate to try stainless rivets without a hydraulic tool, AL seems plenty strong.

The new end caps have the removable silencing cones, prety cool idea. Now on longer rides the wife and I can hear each other through the Autocomms better. Around town I just pull the baffles and all is loud

Cheers.
Keith
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Old 05-23-2006, 12:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CuStOm
Got the new end caps put on the Arrows. Pretty straight forward; drill the rivets and pop the cap off and put the new ones on. As an FYI I used 5mm X 3/8" aluminum rivets. Worked great. I would hate to try stainless rivets without a hydraulic tool, AL seems plenty strong.

The new end caps have the removable silencing cones, prety cool idea. Now on longer rides the wife and I can hear each other through the Autocomms better. Around town I just pull the baffles and all is loud

Cheers.
Keith
Where did you buy the new end caps with silencing cones?
I've got cf Arrows on my ST4s and might want to try those..
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Old 05-23-2006, 02:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CuStOm
Got the new end caps put on the Arrows. Pretty straight forward; drill the rivets and pop the cap off and put the new ones on. As an FYI I used 5mm X 3/8" aluminum rivets. Worked great. I would hate to try stainless rivets without a hydraulic tool, AL seems plenty strong.

The new end caps have the removable silencing cones, prety cool idea. Now on longer rides the wife and I can hear each other through the Autocomms better. Around town I just pull the baffles and all is loud

Cheers.
Keith
What about on the other end of the can, where the pipe comes into it. Can these be separated also with the rivets removed? Thanks,
jim
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Old 05-23-2006, 02:55 AM
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I got the endcaps with the cones from Arrow. You will have to have your dealer call to get them for you. It's not a listed part number. I beleive they are only available for round cans, not oval.
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Old 05-23-2006, 02:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimiDee
What about on the other end of the can, where the pipe comes into it. Can these be separated also with the rivets removed? Thanks,
jim
I recently repacked my carbon Arrows. Removing the end with the pipe welded to it is difficult because it is also the end that has the baffle tube welded to it. The packing material is wrapped around the baffle pretty tight. It also seems to adhere itself to the inside of the carbon sleeves. You have to drill out the rivets and then twist and pull to separate. That is the way it comes apart, so don't give up! Even if it feels like you are about to destroy your cans... I did not remove the output end caps to repack, no need to.
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Old 05-23-2006, 04:02 PM
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Thanks Redduck, because I was feeling like we were going to destroy the cans. I will try your "twist and pull to separate" technique. Thanks,
Jim
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Old 05-23-2006, 06:18 PM
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Yup, keep pulling... Keep in mind, however, that you will likely destroy the packing material by pulling it apart. Plan to buy some new packing material to put it all back together.
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Old 05-24-2006, 09:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redduck
Yup, keep pulling... Keep in mind, however, that you will likely destroy the packing material by pulling it apart. Plan to buy some new packing material to put it all back together.
Man, these sum'biches are on tighter than a...never mind. I am not a weak man, and neither is my buddy, and we pulled, tugged, twisted on this thing and it still didn't break loose. There is a pit bull that lives across the street tha loves playing tug of war, so I might give him a shot at it!

It can't be rusted, but maybe corrosion has set in. I don't think there's a chance that I can have the pipe ceramic coated with the carbon fiber shell in place. We will try again tonight with heat gun in hand.

Do you have any recommended vendors for the packing material. My buddy has a Super Hawk with Erions on it, that needs it too.

Thanks,

Jim
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Old 05-24-2006, 11:58 PM
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They are tight, but they shouldn't be THAT tight! Mine were hard to pull apart, but they had maybe 25K on them at the time. Are you sure you've drilled out all of the rivets and are able to remove the stainless steel band from the can? Are all the rivets punched all the way through and you just have a hole where you can see into the muffler? Be sure none of the rivets just had the head drill off with the shank still in place continuing to hold the sleeve and cap in place.



For packing material I used a kit from FMF. It was a little pricey IMO, but it was nice.



http://store.bobscycle.com/browse.cfm/4,64118.html



I didn't buy it from these guys, but the price was about the same, and I was impressed with the kit. They came with a steel wool wrap that went over the baffle, then a fiberglass wrap (like exhaust heat tape) over that to protect the pillow (loose fill) material the was the final wrap. This kit should last the life of the exhaust.



Twin Brothers makes a very nice, and reasonable priced conventional kit.
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Old 05-25-2006, 12:44 AM
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Just a head's up, my Sil Moto exhaust had some adhesive around each end which added to the difficulty level when pulling off. If you get the end cap off at the very end, you could also try sticking a thin wood stick (or in my case, plastic broom handle) between the baffle and the sleeve to try to tap the other end off. Mine was not easy but it worked. Another approach would be to put the end cap back on to protect the carbon/Ti, place the end of the cap on a piece of wood and tap around the front cap to loosen any adhesive - like you're tapping it on too far I know but intent is to losen it up a little. Underline the fact that you should use care not to hit too hard. Just maybe try to use any adhesive which was likely there to prevent any exhause leakage at the ends.

Two bros packing is what I ended up using. I found this packing was a bit longer and denser after trying Vance & Hines first which was not long enough for my cans. Could also try getting some from a dirtbike shop.
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Old 11-11-2009, 08:53 PM
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sourcing 3/16" diameter Stainless Steel rivets is proving to be difficult, plus it seems as tho a hand-riveting tool may not pull them.

so that beggs the question: no issues with Aluminum rivets on the long-term heat cycling test ??


thanks,
//jSV
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Old 11-11-2009, 09:36 PM
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My own experience with aluminum has been less than satisfactory having broken 3 or more (pulled through).

Stainless is much harder to use but can be done with a hand tool.
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Old 11-11-2009, 09:40 PM
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are we talking 3/16" diameter in both cases?
ie:

- failed 3/16" diameter Aluminum?
and
- Stainless in 3/16" dia can be pulled with hand tools?



thanks,
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Old 11-12-2009, 03:24 AM
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They were used on an Arrow exhaust system, don't recall the size. Same size as what was in there originally. Squeezing the tool is a biatch....
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