Anyone over here found a suitable replacement battery that weighs less than the cinderblock this bike comes with? That's gotta be a good way to shed 5lbs. It would have to be the same volt and amphrs but surely it's out there. Anyone?
So you're saying the Yuasa YTZ7S works fine in the SM610, not just the RC51? Sorry for the need to be so literal but I don't want to get the wrong thing and damamge my bikes elelctricals. Also do you know the exact weight of the YTZ7S? The stock 610 battery is 10lbs wet.
So you're saying the Yuasa YTZ7S works fine in the SM610, not just the RC51? Sorry for the need to be so literal but I don't want to get the wrong thing and damamge my bikes elelctricals. Also do you know the exact weight of the YTZ7S? The stock 610 battery is 10lbs wet.
There both 12 volts and I have never heard of anyone having a problem running one, I have had one for 3 years and my electrical is just fine, let me know if you want one I can get them for good price.
There both 12 volts and I have never heard of anyone having a problem running one, I have had one for 3 years and my electrical is just fine, let me know if you want one I can get them for good price.
The mechanic at the local bike shop told me if the C.C.A. (whatever that is) or the amphrs weren't the same, I'd either burn up the starter-motor or the stator would cook the smaller batttery (regardless that they're both 12volt). But it sounds like you guys got the proof there in front of ya so I'm going for it. How much we talking for this bat?
CCA = cold cranking amps. "Defined as: The number of amperes a lead-acid battery at 0 degrees F (-17.8 degrees C) can deliver for 30 seconds and maintain at least 1.2 volts per cell (7.2 volts for a 12-volt battery)."
Now it's got less CCA so in theory it should be tougher to turn over but it seems like the stock battery isn't the best one on the shelf so it rolls way better when you hit the button. I think a battery minder would be a must if you're an infrequent rider.
What's the output of the alternator? The 51 isn't cooking the battery.
The mechanic at the local bike shop told me if the C.C.A. (whatever that is) or the amphrs weren't the same, I'd either burn up the starter-motor or the stator would cook the smaller batttery (regardless that they're both 12volt). But it sounds like you guys got the proof there in front of ya so I'm going for it. How much we talking for this bat?
That's why all bikes have a voltage regulator rectifier to control the voltage flow to the battery so it get what is needs, no more no less. I sell the Yuasa YTZ7S for $95.00 shipped brand new.
He went out of his way to educate all of us, pics, definitions, went to the trouble of removing his batteries, to hook a brother up.......now that's what the brotherhood is about......
PS.........Quality work on retro fitting the new battery....
Lighter/smaller battery for the 610?
just good people....
Linear Mode
